Heater Bypass install, (Complete)

[W.J.Christy]

I have a Master Temp 400 and am getting back to the project of installing a bypass using the actuator port in the heater. One of the questions I have am pondering is if the onboard actuator control in the heater has a freeze control mode similar to the easy touch where it changes the actuator position every so often to keep water running through both sets of pipes.

Any input on the freeze protection would be very much appreciated.

 

[Turbo1Ton]

The onboard actuator control does not work correctly, at this time. Pentair is aware of it and is supposedly working on it. It will apparently require a firmware update that rumor has it may require a new control board. What is happening is that it activates the bypass valve correctly, when a call for heat is made, but after the internal cooldown period (1 minute I believe) it never returns the valve to the home position.

That is not what you asked for but thought I should let you know about that.

Regarding the freeze protection, it does not cycle the valve back and forth. In the instructions, it states that you should set the valve position to close the bypass line when a call for heat is made, and the home position should be set such that the valve is only about half closed when it is bypassing. This allows for some amount of flow through the heater to prevent freezing issues, and keep the water from becoming stagnant in the heat exchanger.

I initially configured mine to completely close off the heater when it was bypassing, but after a discussion here, decided to set it per Pentair's instructions. There was no reduction in the flow efficiency by doing this. Prior to the bypass loop, I had to run at 1600RPM to satisfy the flow switch for the SWCG. After, with the heater fully closed, I was able to reduce to 1200RPM. With the bypass half open, still able to satisfy the flow switch at 1200RPM.

--Jeff

 

[Turbo1Ton]

I should state that I am controlling my heater bypass valve through the IntelliCenter using the internal heater bits. Not sure how to do this on the Easytouch.

--Jeff

 

[W.J.Christy]

I should state that I am controlling my heater bypass valve through the IntelliCenter using the internal heater bits. Not sure how to do this on the Easytouch.

--Jeff

I have a spot for an additional valve in my easy touch and I believe a can set it to work with the call for heat.

Using the 50% closed when the heater shuts down should also negate the need for the 1 min cool down the heater would provide right?

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Using the 50% closed when the heater shuts down should also negate the need for the 1 min cool down the heater would provide right?

Yes, since there would still be flow through the exchanger, the cooldown will happen naturally. No need to try and program any cooldown period in to it.

--Jeff

 

[W.J.Christy]

I openet the easy touch board and found the row of connectors for the actuators. However, after plugging in the actuator I couldn't find it listed in either sl config or in the easy touch menu and couldn't figure out how to program it in to work with the heat command.

I saw another thread where a relay off an auxiliary circuit was required to make everything work, but since i have the connectors on the main board do I really need to go that route? Or is there another way to program it using the existing main board connection?

 

[W.J.Christy]

Nevermind, I figured it out. There are four connections, 2 assigned to the pool/spa switching mode, and two that are unassigned and can be added to another feature such as heat demand in sl config.

Ill report back once i get it tested....

 

[W.J.Christy]

Alrighty, got the new check valve installed. Luckily for me I checked the fit of the new unions for my swcg before cutting the old one out. Spoiler alert, they didn't fit. Which is why you see two check valves. The one on top closest to the SWCG will be cut out once I get proper unions and replaced with a straight pipe.

 

[W.J.Christy]

Alrighty, checked the actuator and it works. Have was able to verify that it will close and open the bypass on heat demand. I also re-clocked the diverter valve so it will either be a 50/50 mix for the heater and bypass or full on heater. So far so good.

 

[W.J.Christy]

The plumbing is done! It went better than expected but not as smooth as I was hoping for. Overall it was a big win and there are no leaks.

The bypass allowed for a reduction in RPM from 1600 to 900 and almost 70 watt decrease in power usage.

Question, the entire set of pipes for the inlet and outlet of the heater is now connected together and rather cumbersome to disconnect, what about a union in the bypass pipe between the filter and the outlet?

The actuator install is next, of I am correct, it should be easy, but knowing my luck....

 

[W.J.Christy]

Actuator went in with no issues. Works perfectly. Only concern is whether the 900 rpm the pump runs at is high enough to open the check valve on the outlet of the heater during the cool down phase.

 

[Ahultin]

Actuator went in with no issues. Works perfectly. Only concern is whether the 900 rpm the pump runs at is high enough to open the check valve on the outlet of the heater during the cool down phase.

Mine does fine at about 1000rpm which is the min I need for the swg to detect flow. I imagine if you are getting the green flow light at 900 , you are pushing enough for the check valve to be open during cooldown

 

[pjt]

The plumbing is done!

Looks like a neat and clean job! Nice work.

 

[Newdude]

Question, the entire set of pipes for the inlet and outlet of the heater is now connected together and rather cumbersome to disconnect, what about a union in the bypass pipe between the filter and the outlet?

Yes. Install as many unions as you need. 'Cumbersome' is a neat way of putting it, I would have said PVC jungle gym.

Individual legs will be much more manageable.

 

[W.J.Christy]

Mine does fine at about 1000rpm which is the min I need for the swg to detect flow. I imagine if you are getting the green flow light at 900 , you are pushing enough for the check valve to be open during cooldown

That is good to hear. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[TX Pool]

I initially configured mine to completely close off the heater when it was bypassing, but after a discussion here, decided to set it per Pentair's instructions.

I am also looking at installing a bypass on my heater but I might have missed this part. Are you supposed to keep some water flow moving through the heater and not fully isolate from the pool? I was going to close the valve 100% in the summer and open the valve 100% when using the heater

 

[Ahultin]

I am also looking at installing a bypass on my heater but I might have missed this part. Are you supposed to keep some water flow moving through the heater and not fully isolate from the pool? I was going to close the valve 100% in the summer and open the valve 100% when using the heater

Yes , pentair recommends leaving it open @40% while bypassed

 

[W.J.Christy]

I left mine open 50/50 to allow for some flow after the heater shuts down to cook it and to help with freeze protection.

 

[TX Pool]

Yes , pentair recommends leaving it open @40% while bypassed

Is this in the heater manual or in the instructions for the by pass? I have a master temp 250 and cannot find this min setting of flow when the heater is not running.

 

[Ahultin]

Is this in the heater manual or in the instructions for the by pass? I have a master temp 250 and cannot find this min setting of flow when the heater is not running.

Lol it would be way to logical for them to add it to the heater manual. It is in the auto bypass kit manual (attached)