Heat Pump recommendations - Gulf Stream

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You haven't been running your pump? Check your FC levels. Don't want that getting too low and have to do a SLAM!
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I bumped on the FC to around 10 and tomorrow morning, the filter is being turned. Water is still clear, not cloudy. The liner does not feel slimy either. A few more days, and spots will be showing up. CC are registering "zero" I want the pool guy who installed the plumbing to turn the system on. In the event there is a leak, I do not wish to be blamed. Then again, he still needs to be paid, so this should not be a problem.
 
Catanzaro said:
I bumped on the FC to around 10 and tomorrow morning, the filter is being turned. Water is still clear, not cloudy. The liner does not feel slimy either. A few more days, and spots will be showing up. CC are registering "zero" I want the pool guy who installed the plumbing to turn the system on. In the event there is a leak, I do not wish to be blamed. Then again, he still needs to be paid, so this should not be a problem.

"
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Ahh FC at 10 is plenty high, just make sure you mix that puppy up a few times a day with a brush. so you don't get any localized algae.

I'm on the tail end of a SLAM because i didn't have CYA high enough and I read during my searching that algae can pop up in localized spots (deep end typically). If your water is still clear than you're probably good :D
 
Algae usually pops up in localized spots due to poor circulation. I have experimented with lower levels at my CYA and not once did I have a problem. I have even kept my FC @ 5% of CYA for a regular chlorine pool and have had real good success. I believe the key is circulation. You may want to look at the rotating return jets for a swimming pool. The water mixes like a whirlpool. Today, I will run the system for 24 hours and check on the chlorine every 3 hours. Even though, I am still high on K-1000, once the system turns on, if there is algae in the pool, the chlorine will be consumed quickly. Then, I will bring up to shock level for one day and I should be good.

ROTATING HEADS FOR A SWIMMING POOL

https://www.amazon.com/Circulator-10022a-Automatic-Rotating-Swimming/dp/B007Z32UOY

The Circulator Rotating Water Jets for Swimming Pools - YouTube
 
Little late on seeing this topic.
I have the gulfstream for about 4-5 years now.
Only one problem going into second year.
One day the unit was making a thrashing sound,like a wash machine out of balance.
I called Gulfstream and they immediately sent out a new fan blade assembly, knowing what was wrong by the sound it made. they are great people to work with.
It appears some blades will slowly loosen at the 2 rivets that hold them to the center support that connects to the input shaft of motor.
When I removed the old one,I checked to see how loose, but there is no way to see,they all seemed tight,no wiggle,flex or anything.Never would have found on my own.
Installed new one and noise gone.Not sure about other heat pumps,I have my pump on a timer, so if heater is on and timer shuts pump off, no water flow will put heater into lock up mode and you have to manually re start it.
 
Not sure about other heat pumps,I have my pump on a timer, so if heater is on and timer shuts pump off, no water flow will put heater into lock up mode and you have to manually re start it
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Rajung:

Have you contacted the manufacturer about this issue? It sure does not sound right. Think about this logically. If each and every day you would have to manually turn the unit on, something is wrong. Where did you purchase the unit? Just sent an e-mail to Pool Heat Pumps, Pool Heaters, Pool Heating Systems, where I purchased the unit about this one.
 
Rajung:

I just heard back from Gulfstream and this is the comment below. I will update this thread in the next week once the electrician shows up to hook everything up.

The pool heat pump contains a water pressure switch, which detects water flow. When your pool pump turns off the water pressure switch in the pool heat pump will detect that there is no water flow. This will stop the pool heat pump from operating. When the pool pump turns on again, and the pool heat pump detects water flow again, it will start up automatically, you will not have to re start the pool heat pump manually. Hope this helps.
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It appears something may not be right with your unit as water flow should be detected and turning the system back on. Sounds to me like this can be fixed. In addition, you also want to make sure the unit shuts off as when there is no water flow, everything should shut off.
 
Catanzaro said:
Rajung:

I just heard back from Gulfstream and this is the comment below. I will update this thread in the next week once the electrician shows up to hook everything up.



It appears something may not be right with your unit as water flow should be detected and turning the system back on. Sounds to me like this can be fixed. In addition, you also want to make sure the unit shuts off as when there is no water flow, everything should shut off.
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Thanks for the info,I am going to bypass my timer today and try this again.
I don't remember the warranty time on this unit if in fact it does not restart.
 
Thanks for the info,I am going to bypass my timer today and try this again. I don't remember the warranty time on this unit if in fact it does not restart.
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If you registered the unit, the Gulf Stream will have your information. Here is some information below:

• 2 Years Labor
• 10 Years part
• 3-10 pro-rated on parts (covers cost)
• 6” straight line going into the intake valve

Require 30 gpm minimum up to 70 gpm. Intake (In part of heater)
 
Heat Pump up and running. I did a test and the heater ran for 3 hours and took the temperature from 83 to 86. Although, I had the solar cover on, which is really helpful as I can always turn on the system at night, place the cover on and run the filter all night long. The heater run about $.96 per hour (based on my calculations).The seller states under normal conditions without a cover, it would be 6 hours.

Tomorrow, I will run another test throughout the day and spreadsheet for my own records. I kind of like experimenting like this. Too bad it was only 80 degrees today. 85 degree water with 80 degree weather. NJ is rough!
 
Ran a test today. A little chilly this morning. Starting water temperature at 80 degrees and goal was 85 degrees. This is without a solar cover. The solar cover would probably cut the time by 1/3rd to 1/2 of the time as I already ran a short test for 3 hours last week (With the solar cover on, I went from 83 to 86 in about 3 hours, maybe 3 1/2 hours before it shut off). I remember it being a little warmer with more humidity. About 1 degree per hour.

Analysis on bottom:


After the pump shut off during the day, the air temperature slowly came down the unit never came back on as the temp stayed at 86 degrees until I went in around 8 p.m. The next morning, the water temp dropped about 4 degrees, without the solar cover. If one wanted to heat up the pool faster, like a gas heater, the solar cover must go on. This will heat your pool about 1 degree per hour. This is the only disadvantage to the Heat Pump vs. Gas Heater, but I really believe the cost savings during a season will be worth it.
 

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Catanzaro: I've been in touch with Asa and am about to buy the Gulf Stream 150. How has your heat pump treated you, especially during September of last year? Was it able to keep your pool water in the 85 degree range?

Is your pool open this year yet? I'd love to be able to swim from late May to September! I'm near Boston MA.

Thanks
 
I did use the heat pump in September, but did not use it daily. The children were in school, and with activities, there was limited use, therefore no reason to keep it running all the time. In addition, the pump run time was only 4 hours daily. I used the solar cover (because of cold nights), and did not really track the humidity, temperature, etc. like in post # 30. When the weekends rolled around, I would run the pump for 12 hours on Friday (without cover), then place cover on the pool overnight and start at 8 a.m. and by 12 p.m., the pool was back to 85*. I found that the drop of temperature was about 2 degree's at most during the time.

Overall, I am happy with the heat pump. The pool will be open a month before the holiday and I will keep the temperature at 80-82 all the time until we catch a hot day or so and then bump it up. Will post more results in about 30-40 days.
 
How much are your electricians charging to run a 220V line from the breaker panel for the heat pump? My guy wants $1200 for the gfci breaker, wiring, conduit, switch, etc and labor. He says the #6 wire to handle 220V is expensive. I feel $1200 is a lot - what do you all think?

My heat pump will be located about 30ft from the panel and will sit just outside of the foundation wall, so no trenching. Is required.
 
gb99 said:
How much are your electricians charging to run a 220V line from the breaker panel for the heat pump? My guy wants $1200 for the gfci breaker, wiring, conduit, switch, etc and labor. He says the #6 wire to handle 220V is expensive. I feel $1200 is a lot - what do you all think?

My heat pump will be located about 30ft from the panel and will sit just outside of the foundation wall, so no trenching. Is required.
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That’s a rather reasonable price. Permit included?
 

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