No. I will heat as needed when I know people will be using it during shoulder seasons. Definitely could benefit from the larger size if I can make it work.
Hayward vs Raypak/Rheem Natural Gas Pressure Requirements
- Thread starter rscam
- Start date
I'm not sure if anyone will see this, now that it's a few weeks old but Ive made a bit more progress and could use some more input.
I was able to check the incoming gas pressure at the heater via a manometer connected to the port on the upstream side of the gas valve. It measured 6.3 inches static with the unit off. Since the heater is not operational, in order to try to get a dynamic pressure, I jumpered the 24v from the units transformer directly to the valve (per Allen's recommendation above) to try to force gas flow to the burner tubes. I hear the valve click as if it opens but then there is clearly no gas flow thru the valve. A monometer connected to the downstream port measures zero plus as a check I can not smell any gas when I disconnect the tube from the manometer. (I do smell gas on upstream side when I disconnect)
I'm wondering if I'm missing something? The shut off valve on the actual gas valve is in the "on" position. I assume I'm bypassing all of the safeties by directly applying the 24v. I hear the distinct click of the valve opening. I'd really like to see the change in inlet pressure with the valve open and gas flowing.
Any thoughts on why the gas isn't flowing?
I was able to check the incoming gas pressure at the heater via a manometer connected to the port on the upstream side of the gas valve. It measured 6.3 inches static with the unit off. Since the heater is not operational, in order to try to get a dynamic pressure, I jumpered the 24v from the units transformer directly to the valve (per Allen's recommendation above) to try to force gas flow to the burner tubes. I hear the valve click as if it opens but then there is clearly no gas flow thru the valve. A monometer connected to the downstream port measures zero plus as a check I can not smell any gas when I disconnect the tube from the manometer. (I do smell gas on upstream side when I disconnect)
I'm wondering if I'm missing something? The shut off valve on the actual gas valve is in the "on" position. I assume I'm bypassing all of the safeties by directly applying the 24v. I hear the distinct click of the valve opening. I'd really like to see the change in inlet pressure with the valve open and gas flowing.
Any thoughts on why the gas isn't flowing?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,406
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
From the pictures you posted, that valve should not have been in use due to all the corrosion it has. You're hearing the solenoid click upon getting 24v, but the actual valve is not opening. That's the problem with a valve that corroded, they can stick. Unfortunately they can also stick in the open position and gas will flow and the heater will stay lit when it should be off, a very dangerous situation.
A service tech, upon seeing a valve in that condition, is required to disable that heater until the valve, or heater, is replaced. Because they are afraid of making a customer angry, many will try to make it work, but the liability will always fall back on them if here is a problem.
That heater is not in very good condition, but a new replacement valve in that BTU range would cost $200.00 - $275.00
Thanks for the help poolman. Just so u know, Im not trying to get the heater running (it's pretty much been out of commission since I bought the house 5 years ago) I was just hoping to get a gas pressure reading with the valve open to help confirm there is sufficient gas supply given that the pipe size and length of run is a bit borderline for the heater size. I have no reason to believe that the old heater was starved for gas but I like to check details like this before I invest in a new heater.