Hayward vs Circupool RJ45 SWG

My pool is under construction and I have narrowed the choice of SWG to Hayward vs Circupool.

Pool plumbing already has the Rainbow Chlorinator inline and PB won't talk about changing it until after pool is running. I didn't get a recent price but he probably will charge from what I heard during estimates of about $1500 installed for the Hayward.

The SWGs can be bought for $900. What is a reasonable price to pay either the PB or a Plumber & Electrician for the install.

I could do this myself later but I see complications in reducing 2.5 plumbing to 2" although I could use the reducers PB has in place for the Rainbow Chlorinator.

Also how long could I use the tri-chlor tablets before the CYA levels become excessive. I need to know this before ordering a 50lb bucket. I have 15,000 gal. pool. I have read the TFP pool school and recall that I could go to 80 if I will be getting a SWG.

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For every 10 ppm of FC you add with the pucks it will also add 6 ppm of CYA. Use PoolMath and at the end there is a section effects of adding chemicals. This will calculate out what those tabs are doing to the water. You should get that each 50lb. bucket of tabs will add 222 ppm of CYA and 366 ppm of FC to your 15,000 gallon pool.

Rain might come into the equation for how much the CYA actually builds up to. If the amount of rain you get overflows the pool, it will lose some of the CYA.

Price is subjective on the SWG. My PB quoted the SWG as an option to be installed and there was no profit from retail cost, but that was part of the original bid. I've seen plenty of quotes that more than double the cost of the SWG.

Some SWG's require a certified contractor to install for the full warranty, so research that a bit.
 
Thanks very helpful - saved me from buying a useless 50lb bucket and seeing CYA go over 200. PB will fill the chlorinator with 10 tabs and I may buy a few till I get to 30 to 50 CYA. Then I will buy liquid chlorine for a while get pool chemistry stable.

From Pool Math Salt levels will build up with liquid chlorine over a year or two and then I will have enough salt to go SWG without adding any. :D By that time I'll be sick of lugging chlorine refills.
 
Watch out with the plan to use pucks until the CYA hits your target. It's pretty easy to overshoot. CYA levels have a habit of showing up sometime later than you expect. A better plan might be to just add stabilizer (CYA granuals) separately based on Pool Math. Just be careful they take up to a week or more after their addition to show in your testing. Leave the CYA level very slightly on the low side. That allows for the use of pucks as a convenience for a short vacation. Once you add CYA you then use liquid chlorine based on the assumed CYA level based on Pool Math.
 
The PB is not going to use Liquid Chlorine and he is not going to let me do anything till he turns the pool over to me. If I do anything & something goes wrong he will blame me.
The 10 or is it 11 pucks shouldn't be a problem as it should get the CYA to about 25 -30 for my size pool.
I won't use any more until I begin testing with TFT-100 test kit that I'm planning to order soon.
 

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You can see pics of my pool under construction here:

New Pool - Orlando Florida

This is my 3rd pool. The last pool I had was 16 yrs ago, also in Florida but it was SW Florida (screened). I used tri-chlor tabs in it for 7yrs. and tested my water weekly with a simple test kit. I had no knowledge of CYA. Never drained the pool. Never any algae. No problems with the Diamond Brite finish. Shocked the pool every few weeks and added PH up. Wow:shaking: I was lucky CYA must have been through the roof.

Have been reading TFP for many months and joined recently. Learning a lot and preventing costly mistakes.
 
Re: Circupool unit sucks, the cell doesn't last.

Anyone have experience on the Circupool RJ45? How do they compare to the hayward systems? Sale on the Circupool right now, but I want to make sure what I buy will last. So confusing!


Just to be clear to others on this forum - you should never clean a salt cells blades using concentrated acid solutions. The transition metal coatings on the titanium plates will be etched off doing so (they don't withstand acidic pH). When cleaning them, you always use a dilute acid solution. I would never use more than a 5:1 dilution and even that is exceedingly strong. The calcium scale will typically dissolve at a faster rate than the metal coating but if one uses too strong of an acid, rates won't matter much and then entire cell will be ruined.

If you want, you can use white vinegar. It has a pH of around 5.0 which is a lot higher than any diluted MA solutions (most MA solutions, even dilute ones, still have a pH down near 1.0). The only problem with acetic acid is that the removal rate of calcium is fairly slow and you'd have to soak the blades for quite some time if they are heavily scaled with calcium.

If there is no visible scale on the blades, then you should not clean them. Other problems might be occurring that have nothing to do with scale on the blades.
 
By maintaining the chemistry levels properly, mostly ph, no scale should develop and no cleaning would be required, thus prolonging the cell's life

Agreed! It's been years since I've cleaned the cell and the one time I did do it, it was totally unnecessary. Proper CSI balance is the key.


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My cell died after about 3 years. Toward the end my CH was getting high and I was not keeping a close eye on the pH. Started to get scale and started to acid wash .... I can only assume that the required cleaning shortened the life.
 
The original postings on this topic include posts that are now 7-years old and I want to point out that CircuPool has not had any connection to Compu Pool for about 4 years. Thanks for the opportunity to provide this update!
 
Was just lurking around and saw this thread. I bought the Si40 four years ago when they were doing a sale on them where you would get a upsize. I had ordered the Si30 and received the Si45, bonus! Considering that I only have a 14.5k gallon pool, I knew this was going to be overkill. The good thing is that four years later the cell is perfect (CSI well maintained) and the %generation is usually between 15-25 depending on how long I am running the pump and what time of the year it is.
The only issue that I have had with it is that late last season the controller went dark. I called them, got an RMA, shipped it to them and they turned it around same day, no cost. So I was one without a SWG for about 5 days which isn't bad in my opinion. The bad thing is that even with wrapping the unit in bubble wrap, boxing it, and more bubble wrap, UPS was kind enough to drop it on the porch and bend the upper mounting ear. This is probably due to the driver being annoyed with me ordering heavy Jeep parts several times.
Would I buy from them again, absolutely. I have been pleased with the operation of the unit and treat it with care. Oversizing the unit isn't a bad thing as you are able to run it at a lower power and hopefully extend the life.
 
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