Hayward T-Cell 15 not ok?

[ddavtian]

I purchased a second hand Hayward T-Cell 15 on Ebay. SWG seems to be producing chlorine, I tested in a bucket with my current pool water and noticed a good amount of chlorine emitting from the device. The question I have is as follows:

* SWG is connected to Hayward OmniLogic
* I have set the unit to only produce 15% of the run time. The pump runs about 8 to 10 hours per day.
* Even at 15% chlorination set point I notice that the Status always shows Chlorinating.
* When I view the Diagnostics Relay Polarity alternates from K1, to K2 to OFF.

These are my current reading from SWG as of this writing.

Cell Temp: 57.9 degrees
Average Salt: 3700 ppm
Cell Type: T-CELL-15
Cell Voltage: 28.29 V
Instant Salt: 3525 ppm
Cell Current: 6.86 A
Relay Polarity: K1

Question: Given that I have set the 15% chlorination setpoint, shouldn't the unit turn off once it reaches the 15% coverage and Status to ON instead of Chlorinating? I could have sworn I had seen this behavior a while back but now it seems to always show Chlorinating.

I tested my water and my Free Chlorine is showing 24.12 and total Chlorine 27.77 ( which is quite high ) which is indiactive that SWG keeps pumping chlorine into the pool?

Many thanks for the help.

 

[Bperry]

I purchased a second hand Hayward T-Cell 15 on Ebay. SWG seems to be producing chlorine, I tested in a bucket with my current pull water and noticed a good amount of chlorine emitting from the device. The question I have is as follows:

* SWG is connected to Hayward OmniLogic
* I have set the unit to only produce 15% of the run time. The pump runs about 8 to 10 hours per day.
* Even at 15% chlorination set point I notice that the Status always shows Chlorinating.
* When I view the Diagnostics Relay Polarity alternates from K1, to K2 to OFF.

These are my current reading from SWG as of this writing.

Cell Temp: 57.9 degrees
Average Salt: 3700 ppm
Cell Type: T-CELL-15
Cell Voltage: 28.29 V
Instant Salt: 3525 ppm
Cell Current: 6.86 A
Relay Polarity: K1

Question: Given that I have set the 15% chlorination setpoint, shouldn't the unit turn off once it reaches the 15% coverage and Status to ON instead of Chlorinating? I could have sworn I had seen this behavior a while back but now it seems to always show Chlorinating.

I tested my water and my Free Chlorine is showing 24.12 and total Chlorine 27.77 ( which is quite high ) which is indiactive that SWG keeps pumping chlorine into the pool?

Many thanks for the help.

View attachment 539746View attachment 539747

They work on a duty cycle so it’ll produce chlorine on and off throughout the time it’s powered on and will only be producing chlorine 15% of that time.

 

[ddavtian]

Thanks @Bperry - So seeing it cycle from K1 to K2 to OFF is normal and seeing the Status always staying as Chlorinating is working as intended? Also given that it's a T-Cell 15 ( which is meant for up to 40K gallon pool and mine is 20K ) and my Free Chlorine being 24.12 and total Chlorine 27.77, should I drop the 15% set point to a much lower number to reduce the chlorine in the pool. Appreciate the advice. I can also run it on a set schedule, say a few hours a day max.

 

[bradgray]

should I drop the 15% set point to a much lower number to reduce the chlorine in the pool. Appreciate the advice. I can also run it on a set schedule, say a few hours a day max.

You're better off lowering the production %. Let the cell run evenly throughout the entire filter cycle.

Layering schedules in the Omni tends to cause conflicts over time and phantom triggers that require factory resets. Unless you know how to rebuild your config, I would schedule as few things as possible.

 

[Bperry]

Thanks @Bperry - So seeing it cycle from K1 to K2 to OFF is normal and seeing the Status always staying as Chlorinating is working as intended? Also given that it's a T-Cell 15 ( which is meant for up to 40K gallon pool and mine is 20K ) and my Free Chlorine being 24.12 and total Chlorine 27.77, should I drop the 15% set point to a much lower number to reduce the chlorine in the pool. Appreciate the advice. I can also run it on a set schedule, say a few hours a day max.

Wherever you got those chlorine numbers would be my first concern. Note that TFP recommends not trusting pool store testing as it’s nearly always inaccurate and leads you to add stuff that makes problems worse. Get one of the two recommended test kits and only trust those results.

Oops, In case no one welcomed you, let me do that now!

 

[Bperry]

Wherever you got those chlorine numbers would be my first concern. Note that TFP recommends not trusting pool store testing as it’s nearly always inaccurate and leads you to add stuff that makes problems worse. Get one of the two recommended test kits and only trust those results.

Oops, In case no one welcomed you, let me do that now!

I’ll have to let someone else who’s familiar with that system to comment on the k1 and k2 thing. Sounds like those are relays turning on and off the power to the plates and if so, it does sound normal.

 

[ddavtian]

Oops, In case no one welcomed you, let me do that now!

Thank you all very much. I got myself a Leslie's at home ACCUBlue testing product ( probably not recommended by TFP community ). These are the results it produced. I am not confident that these are accurate to be honest. I mean, they sold me a bottle of highly concentrated Phosphates cleaner a week ago, I applied based on the directions on the bottle and it turned my water cloudy for 72+ hours. Which is what it supposed to do I assume but now a week after, it's still showing extremely high levels of Phosphates.

Note that TFP recommends not trusting pool store testing as it’s nearly always inaccurate and leads you to add stuff that makes problems worse. Get one of the two recommended test kits and only trust those results.

Thank you will search on TFP for the recommended test kits and stick to that for now.

 

[Newdude]

I got myself a Leslie's at home ACCUBlue testing product ( probably not recommended by TFP community ). These are the results it produced. I am not confident that these are accurate to be honest.

They are not confident either. Per Leslies, it's error variance is +/-25% for anything in range.




Just like the store test, it's sole purpose is to sell you chemicals.

 

[ddavtian]

+-25% is a huge range of comfort for me, cancelled my sub with them. I am going to pickup TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD and give it a go, unless folks recommend a better option. Noticed this kit in a few signatures and it has good ratings.

 

[mknauss]

That Taylor kit is fine -- be sure to get the K2006C. The C is important. comes with 2 oz reagent bottles versus 0.75 oz.

Best value is a Tftestkits.net kit. The TF100 is the base kit. The TFPro has a nicer case and comes with a stir device.

 

[ddavtian]

You're better off lowering the production %. Let the cell run evenly throughout the entire filter cycle.

Layering schedules in the Omni tends to cause conflicts over time and phantom triggers that require factory resets. Unless you know how to rebuild your config, I would schedule as few things as possible.

@bradgray - I removed the schedule and set the "Chlorination Set Point" to 5%. The pool pump has been running all day now and I still see the observed behavior of SWG cycling between K1, K2 and OFF. Status never ever goes to ON and keeps indicating Chlorinating. I have a feeling the cell is going bad. Should this always say Chlorinating is my main concern.

 

[proavia]

Since you have a SWG, the TF-Pro Salt would be the best value for the money. Comes with the stirring device and the salt test reagents too.