Hayward T-cell 15 and Balance issue

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The cycle time should be 180 minutes.

At 20%, the power should be on for 36 minutes and then off for 144 minutes.

You can confirm by watching after Reversing Polarity and timing the cycle On time.

1. With Firmware Revision 1.55 (5/8/2009) the cycle time (reversal of polarity) changed from 120 minutes (2 hrs) to 180 minutes (3 hrs).

When you set the ‘Desired Output %’ dial on the main panel this sets the level of salt cell operation as a percent of the operating time of each cycle.

50% is the factory default.

Below are simple examples for 2 and 3 hr cycle times.

• 2 hr cycle: If the output is set at 50% and the total time for operation is 8 hrs, the salt cell will operate (and produce chlorine) for 50% (1 hr) of each 2hr cycle for a total of 4 hrs.

• 3 hr cycle: If the output is set at 50% and the total time for operation is 9 hrs, the salt cell will operate (and produce chlorine) for 50% (1.5 hrs) of each 3 hrs cycle for a total of 4.5 hrs
 
JamesW said:
Are you 100% sure that the ORP is not controlling the SWG?

If the output is scaled back, the On Time should be 36 minutes.
Click to expand...
100% sure, the ORP just a reading in Omnilogic system, it came with the Hayward HL-CHEM Sense & Dispense kit, which is used to control PH, adding acid when ph high than setting level, the cell can work without HL-CHEM.
 
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ajw22 said:
You need to log the chemicals added and your daily FC loss in PoolMath

You need to chlorinate with Liquid Chlorine and have your pool need 4PPM of FC per day or less, A loss of 15PPM over 1-2 days says you have algae in your water.

You say you pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test but the numbers you provide don’t support that.

See that your pool holds chlorine every day for a week before you tackle your SWG problems.
Click to expand...
I started SLAM since last Thursday, since my CYA level is 50, so I tried to maintain my FC level above 20 and PH with 7.4, usually FC is was always around 22, use liquid chlorine and dry acid (food grade pure Citric acid bought from Amazon) only until this Wednesday.
However, it seems nothing changed, the overnight FC loss is always around 0.5-0.7 ppm, but once Sun rises, the FC is dropping very fast, everyday, I should add 4-6 gal liquid chlorine to maintain the SLAM FC level.
Also, the ORP can only maintain at 650-700 mv, when the FC is over 20, even I dosed with non-chlorine shock, the ORP only raised a little to 750-800.

Then I found the copper level is keep rising, on last Friday, it was 0.7ppm, now is 1.3ppm. the water looks clean and crystal, no visible stain, except two small rebar rust spots on the plaster. Base last Leslie's water test report did on 2/19, Iron level is 0.1, Phosphates is 14, TA 120, CYA 50, CH 300, Salt 3400, TA, CYA, CH, Salt were test by K-2006.

Will high copper level damage the ability that CYA holding chlorine? or my CYA in the pool has problem, or I need to replace entire water in the pool?

Appreciate any idea.
 

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Comments:

  • Your CYA is too high to use ORP. CYA needs to be lower than 30 ppm for ORP to be accurate.
  • You are not following the SLAM process. Print this out and read it three times...then follow it: Link-->SLAM Process
  • Do not use citric acid in a pool.
  • Do not use non-chlorine shock. It will raise your CC. Use only liquid chlorine.
  • You should test and add liquid chlorine every couple hours during SLAM, to maintain your target FC of 20. No need to go higher.
  • Stay out of Leslie's and use your Test kit to test and report your chemical results. Leslie's is notoriously wrong. Your kit is much more accurate.
  • Turn off the automated acid addition
  • pH testing is invalid when FC > 10.

Questions:
  • What is your CC?
  • How often are you testing FC?
  • Are you sure that your ORP is not controlling acid additions? If it is, turn it off. CYA needs to be below 30 for ORP to be accurate.
  • Why are you quoting ORP numbers? What do you think that means?
 
Last edited:
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a3po911 said:
Then I found the copper level is keep rising, on last Friday, it was 0.7ppm, now is 1.3ppm.
Click to expand...
Leslie's (etc) stated variance for metals is +/- 0.3 at 0.3. So basically, anything 0 to 0.6 is suspect. At 0.6+, there is likely irrefutable proof (staining) that the copper or iron is high.

The other tests are +/- 25% when in range and if they skew low, you want to add chems. If they skew high, you want to lower them. All while things are dead on.

Use your test kit exclusively. :)
 
PoolStored said:
Comments:

  • Your CYA is too high to use ORP. CYA needs to be lower than 30 ppm for ORP to be accurate.
  • You are not following the SLAM process. Print this out and read it three times...then follow it: Link-->SLAM Process
  • Do not use citric acid in a pool.
  • Do not use non-chlorine shock. It will raise your CC. Use only liquid chlorine.
  • You should test and add liquid chlorine every couple hours during SLAM, to maintain your target FC of 20. No need to go higher.
  • Stay out of Leslie's and use your Test kit to test and report your chemical results. Leslie's is notoriously wrong. Your kit is much more accurate.
  • Turn off the automated acid addition
  • pH testing is invalid when FC > 10.

Questions:
  • What is your CC?
  • How often are you testing FC?
  • Are you sure that your ORP is not controlling acid additions? If it is, turn it off. CYA needs to be below 30 for ORP to be accurate.
  • Why are you quoting ORP numbers? What do you think that means?
Click to expand...
I am not using ORP to control anything, reading only. CC is about 0.2-0.3, sometime 0, I test FC every 3-4 hours on the day, twice in the night.

Do we just ignore PH when doing SLAM? I always add acid once ph over 7.6.

Before adding chlorine, I will add acid again to low the ph down to 7.2, then add chlorine. Is this correct?
 
Newdude said:
Leslie's (etc) stated variance for metals is +/- 0.3 at 0.3. So basically, anything 0 to 0.6 is suspect. At 0.6+, there is likely irrefutable proof (staining) that the copper or iron is high.

The other tests are +/- 25% when in range and if they skew low, you want to add chems. If they skew high, you want to lower them. All while things are dead on.

Use your test kit exclusively. :)
Click to expand...
I've bought a copper test kit, should be arrive soon, I don't trust Leslie too, just use them for copper and phosphate test.
 
a3po911 said:
Do we just ignore PH when doing SLAM? I always add acid once ph over 7.6.
Click to expand...
Ignore pH. Make the adjustment before SLAM, then leave it alone. The pH test is not accurate when FC >10.

a3po911 said:
Before adding chlorine, I will add acid again to low the ph down to 7.2, then add chlorine. Is this correct?
Click to expand...
This is not correct. Print out the SLAM instructions and read it three times, keep it with you. Hardcopy helps! Link-->SLAM Process
 
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a3po911 said:
I've bought a copper test kit
Click to expand...
Which one ? You need to invest some serious coin for any accuracy, or else they'd be using what you bought too. Instead they invest medium coin and it's iffy at best.
 
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