Hayward system says check salt

[DMS2014]

Salt is 3400 and the readout is 2600. It has been reset multiple times.

Thoughts? Salt cell is new - the age is in my tag line.

 

[TinFoilHat]

If the cell is producing chlorine then it's happy and you don't need to worry about the salt level. You can clear the error by pressing and holding the little black button to the left of the display. Now, if you've not recently or never removed the cell to check for calcium buildup then this it the time to do so as that could be the issue. Just don't clean the cell with muriatic acid no matter what you read. Use a small non-metal tool to flake as much off as you can and rinse with water, then soak it in a 1:1 vinegar solution. Your cell isn't new either, it's 4 years old and getting closer to the end of it's life of 10000 hours.

 

[Lake Placid]

What controller/automation do you have? Pro Logic? Aquarite?

 

[DMS2014]

What controller/automation do you have? Pro Logic? Aquarite?

Aqua right.

 

[DMS2014]

If the cell is producing chlorine then it's happy and you don't need to worry about the salt level. You can clear the error by pressing and holding the little black button to the left of the display. Now, if you've not recently or never removed the cell to check for calcium buildup then this it the time to do so as that could be the issue. Just don't clean the cell with muriatic acid no matter what you read. Use a small non-metal tool to flake as much off as you can and rinse with water, then soak it in a 1:1 vinegar solution. Your cell isn't new either, it's 4 years old and getting closer to the end of its life of 10000 hours.

Done the little black button 3 times. Recalibrated the salt in the pool. Salt cell itself - cleaned it in May. Not corroded. It says the salt is LOW. Our salt is 3400. Checked it again today. It’s not reading OR producing enough…sigh…CL was down to 3 today and I checked it Sunday! It was 6.5. CYA is 80 . I only do a CL check on Wednesdays (missed it - did today.) Full on Sundays. I checked the CYA today bc we added some on Sunday.

 

[proavia]

Signature indicated SWG was "new" in 2020.

Are you ending the salt test at the first indication of the brick red color staying or are you continuing to add drops until you see a deeper brick red color? Salt test is complete when the brick red color stays.

 

[ajw22]

 

[DMS2014]

Just to brick. I know the drill. What’s interesting is my PITA husband wanted to double-check it with Leslie's and it was very off. I stand by my 3400.
We bought a new salt cell. It’s been installed. The hubs is STILL having trouble with it but he said that sometimes it take a couple hours or something to start working…sigh… I will keep a close watch on the CL…

 

[wireform]

It starts working as soon as you hit the switch. You can test the water coming out of it as follows. Turn it to full 100% the grab a empty water bottle and place the opening just in front of the return. Squeeze it several times and fill so you get it filled pretty much fro the return water. Now test this for FC. It should have a higher FC then the pool water away from the return.

 

[DMS2014]

So someone please talk to me like a 5 y/o. I have asked this question several times, been referred to things to read, etc. I’ve read it but it still doesn’t help me understand HOW to calculate the SWG for FC. Production. I’ve had to manhandle it all summer. We just replaced our salt cell today. Based on a 19K pool and me wanting the FC to be 6, how do I calculate this in the pool app calculator thingee? Step by step. Telling me that the SWG generates X per X doesn’t help me out too much.

Today’s chems:
FC 6 (achieved via liquid chlorine and pucks while we were out of town)
CH 425
PH 7.8 - not to mention I am SICK TO DEATH of this being a constant, every week problem of being higher than this
CYA 70
TA 70
Salt 3400

 

[mknauss]

A T15 will add 0.4 ppm FC to a 19K gallon pool each hour when set at 100% generation.

For your climate, I would set it to create 4 ppm FC per day. Or 10 hours at 100%. Run that for several days and test the FC each day at the same time. See if it rises or falls. Adjust as necessary.

You have high TA fill water. If you add fill water, you will add acid.

 

[JamesW]

Basic AquaRite Diagnostics.​

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all diagnostic readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

Cell Diagnostics.​

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

• Default salt display
• Pool temp
• Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
• Cell current
• Desired output (% of the knob)
• Instant salinity
• Product name
• Software revision (r.XX)
• Cell type

To estimate the performance of the Aquarite cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity. If the performance is less than 75%, the cell is failing and it's time to consider replacing the cell. You need to be sure about the actual salinity by using a salt test like the Taylor K-1766.

Check the instant salinity reading and then cycle power to reverse polarity and recheck the instant salinity reading. The numbers should be about the same +/- 200 ppm.

You can get the age of the cell from the serial number. It will be 3Exx, where xx is the year it was made.

Get at least 3 independent salinity readings to be 100% sure about the actual salinity.

 

[JamesW]

I stand by my 3400.

Most people are way more confident in their actual salinity than is justified.

I am never certain about a salinity reading until I have at least 3 independent readings from at least two different methods like a K-1766 salt test kit and a conductivity reading from a calibrated meter and all three have to be within a range of a maximum of 400 ppm.

This can be 2 different K-1766 kits and 1 electronic tester or 2 conductivity testers and 1 k-1766.

 

[Mdragger88]

So someone please talk to me like a 5 y/o. I have asked this question several times, been referred to things to read, etc. I’ve read it but it still doesn’t help me understand HOW to calculate the SWG for FC. Production. I’ve had to manhandle it all summer. We just replaced our salt cell today. Based on a 19K pool and me wanting the FC to be 6, how do I calculate this in the pool app calculator thingee? Step by step. Telling me that the SWG generates X per X doesn’t help me out too much.

Today’s chems:
FC 6 (achieved via liquid chlorine and pucks while we were out of town)
CH 425
PH 7.8 - not to mention I am SICK TO DEATH of this being a constant, every week problem of being higher than this
CYA 70
TA 70
Salt 3400

Use poolmath effects of adding (top left hamburger menu)-
Select swg as your chemical-
Select hayward t15 -
here’s how it will look if you do what @mknauss instructed.
You can adjust the % or run time to see what fc it will result in.

 

[JamesW]

Recalibrated the salt in the pool.

There is no calibration; you can only reset the average.

The SWG readout is probably as accurate as the method you are using.

That's a tie and you need at least 2 new independent methods to break the tie.

What’s interesting is my PITA husband wanted to double-check it with Leslie's and it was very off.

What number was reported?