Hayward SWG 3600 instant 2600 LT

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Hwmonkey

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Aug 17, 2018
10
Daytona Beach, FL
My flow sensor went out, we had a lot of rain and the salt went down to 2600 (Taylor k1766). Pool is clear, and no algae. Because of all that was going on, I took the safe oath and pushed the ph low 6.7 and FC high 8. My stabilizer was low, so I added and I do not have a reading right now. Put in a new flow sensor. This one didn’t like the vertical position as much, so I had to turn it so it was coming on and off (closer to 45 degrees).

The SWG is reading 3600 instant, and the Taylor confirms this. The LT number reads 2600. So the light flashes to check the cell and it is generating. What am I missing? Is it just the cell is old?
 
Hwmonkey said:
My flow sensor went out, we had a lot of rain and the salt went down to 2600 (Taylor k1766). Pool is clear, and no algae. Because of all that was going on, I took the safe oath and pushed the ph low 6.7 and FC high 8. My stabilizer was low, so I added and I do not have a reading right now. Put in a new flow sensor. This one didn’t like the vertical position as much, so I had to turn it so it was coming on and off (closer to 45 degrees).

The SWG is reading 3600 instant, and the Taylor confirms this. The LT number reads 2600. So the light flashes to check the cell and it is generating. What am I missing? Is it just the cell is old?
Click to expand...
I think when a Hayward SWG is turned off it needs 24 hours to recalibrate itself. There is also a manual way to recalibrate the salt cell and I believe it's I n the manual.
 
Hwmonkey said:
My flow sensor went out, we had a lot of rain and the salt went down to 2600 (Taylor k1766). Pool is clear, and no algae. Because of all that was going on, I took the safe oath and pushed the ph low 6.7 and FC high 8. My stabilizer was low, so I added and I do not have a reading right now. Put in a new flow sensor. This one didn’t like the vertical position as much, so I had to turn it so it was coming on and off (closer to 45 degrees).

The SWG is reading 3600 instant, and the Taylor confirms this. The LT number reads 2600. So the light flashes to check the cell and it is generating. What am I missing? Is it just the cell is old?
Click to expand...
You shouldn’t ever lower ph below 7.
What are all your other latest test results?
Ta,ch,cya, borates?
The check cell light comes on automatically every 500 hours as a reminder. Like a maintenance light on your car.
You can reset it by holding the diagnostic button down for several seconds.
As mentioned it can take 24 hours for the average salt readings to normalize after a large addition as it is an average of the last 3 readings.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Be sure that your new flow switch is mounted in such a way that it cannot be closed simply by gravity
 
Mdragger88 said:
You shouldn’t ever lower ph below 7.
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Maybe on a resin above ground, but the concrete with diamondbrite… installer actually recommended it if no one will be swimming and trying to rectify a low chlorine issue. The FCs lead to increasing the ph. In two days it will be normal.
Mdragger88 said:
The check cell light comes on automatically every 500 hours as a reminder. Like a maintenance light on your car.
Click to expand...
Good reminder. I had recently cleaned and reset, maybe 4 weeks ago
Mdragger88 said:
You can reset it by holding the diagnostic button down for several seconds.
Click to expand...
Ok! It wound up adjusting in the few hours since I wrote this, so all is well again. I suspect that even though I put the salt in over 24 hours ago, we had rain, and the salinity was not consistent. It is now reading closer to accurate and the lights are out

Thanks!!
 
Hwmonkey said:
Maybe on a resin above ground, but the concrete with diamondbrite… installer actually recommended it if no one will be swimming and trying to rectify a low chlorine issue.
Click to expand...
Follow their advice if you wish but it is not advisable by this forum to lower ph below 7 on purpose.
Unless you have no cya lowering ph to acidic levels will not assist your chlorine.

PH - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Ok. My understanding is that the pH rises because the SWG produces lots of tiny hydrogen gas bubbles and these bubbles aerate the water pulling out the carbonates and carbon dioxide from the water and outgassing them to the air. This aeration causes a rise in pH with no change in Total Alkalinity (TA). If your pool can successfully do SWG without bubbles, it won’t happen. My design is old and did not plan for proper aeration. I am sure others experience the same. I adjust my SWG down to try to prevent but cannot find the right point where this does not occur
 

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Hwmonkey said:
My flow sensor went out, we had a lot of rain and the salt went down to 2600 (Taylor k1766). Pool is clear, and no algae. Because of all that was going on, I took the safe oath and pushed the ph low 6.7 and FC high 8. My stabilizer was low, so I added and I do not have a reading right now. Put in a new flow sensor. This one didn’t like the vertical position as much, so I had to turn it so it was coming on and off (closer to 45 degrees).

The SWG is reading 3600 instant, and the Taylor confirms this. The LT number reads 2600. So the light flashes to check the cell and it is generating. What am I missing? Is it just the cell is old?
Click to expand...
Mine did exactly the same, dropped from 3600 to 2600. After nothing else worked, I tried putting my pump on the high speed. Then it maintained the 3,600 level. I did not want it running on the high speed all the time so I tried turning the SWCG with the hump down, and it stayed at 3600 on the low speed then. Good luck!
 
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