Hayward SP714C Vari-Flo Valve - Replacing Parts Help

[keatz85]

Handle is kind of loose going up and down but tough to turn clockwise or counterclockwise. Pool company was helping with a suction side leak I couldn't find (it was actually behind the handle on one of the suction side valves and low enough to where it was below water level or something? i didn't really understand but when he cut out the bad valve water was overflowing out the pipe, he plugged the pipe, added a new small length of pipe to extend the pipe, unplugged, then added new valve - it was pretty cool) at any rate during this visit (as he checked almost everything) he said something needed replaced w/ my sand filter valve, i don't remember exactly what part, but basically something was worn down and soon would completely fail and when i turned the valve the proper setting wouldn't engage. So I dissembled today - nylon washer was broken in half, cover o-ring appears loose, 2 o rings on the shaft seal but did not appear to have a yellow clamp ring I've seen in videos (should it?), spider gasket appears to be in bad condition.

My plan of attack would be to replace the nylon washer, cover o-ring, and spider gasket. However, have ran into some conflicting info. I've seen to replace the entire handle assembly. Also have seen to do a key seal diverter assembly since spider gaskets need torn out/glued in and supposedly you cannot get just the spider gasket from OEM.

When putting the handle assembly back on (so filter can operate why I'm planning/ordering parts) I now has 2 new self caused issues. 1. I stripped the Philips part of one of the cover screws, not a big deal but - can I buy a replacement screw from a hardware store or do I have to buy a set of 6 from Hayward (problem well over priced) and 2. and more concerning - I stripped one of cover screw holes on the valve body, the one that's right over the inlet from the pump. I hope I don't have to replace the valve body, any suggestion on the stripped hole? As you can imagine, water is now leaking between the cover and valve body.

PS I used a low powered electric drill to screw/unscrew. In my defense, Inyo pools was using a drill on one of their videos replacing the key seal diverter assembly but I'll definitely use a screw driver moving forward.

 

[Texas Splash]

I'm one to save a buck whenever I can, but a couple things would make me concerned about your scenario. First is the stripped screw hole. I can't think of a way to repair that hole and still be able to use it to ensure a tight squeeze (seal). The other is the amount of parts to replace. When you look at the various items on the parts list HERE, it can add up quickly. If there's not much difference, I would almost be inclined to just replace the entire assembly.

 

[keatz85]

I'm one to save a buck whenever I can, but a couple things would make me concerned about your scenario. First is the stripped screw hole. I can't think of a way to repair that hole and still be able to use it to ensure a tight squeeze (seal). The other is the amount of parts to replace. When you look at the various items on the parts list HERE, it can add up quickly. If there's not much difference, I would almost be inclined to just replace the entire assembly.

To stop the leak (until parts arrive/time to fix) I was going to try filling the hole w/ water weld, wrapping screw in teflon tape, screwing in, let dry, remove screw, then reattach handle assembly. Got the idea from this video -

. I can't picture it sealing though. Immediately put some teflon on the screw to stop/slow, which didn't do anything but fortunately the leak stopped within a day so yay to more leeway w/ time haha.

Just found this -

- trying a bigger screw and if that doesn't working then drilling and tapping a new screw.

With all that said, good point on the parts. Pool parts are weird - 110 for the complete top mount kit...100 for just the handle assembly...134 for just the valve body. I calculate it around 50 for all the parts/materials I would need which may or not work or may not work for long. Plus how long are the few parts left going to last or even the body for that matter. Spending 50 to fix something that's 110 brand new probably doesnt make the most sense.

Thank you!