Hayward pump won't turn on

Not a bit. Not even a hum.

I tested both legs just to make sure - 120v each. Also tested the cap - it appears to be charging correctly. Shaft turns freely.

My knowledge of motors is limited. That's basically all I know to do.
 
I tested both legs just to make sure - 120v each.
Are you measuring each leg to ground and adding them together or are you measuring from L1 to L2 and reading 245 volts?

It's very unlikely that you would measure 240 line to line at the pump and not get any noise at all.

Can you show the wiring at the pump and the voltage being measured?
 
It's very unlikely that you would measure 240 line to line at the pump and not get any noise at all.

Can you show the wiring at the pump and the voltage being measured?

The pump should be under warranty. Maybe just file a warranty claim.
 
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You can test the motor by doing the following:

1) Turn off power at the breaker. Don't just use the timer or automation off button.
2) Verify power is off using a voltmeter.
3) Remove the capacitor.
4) Disconnect the power wires from the terminals L1 and L2.
5) Measure resistance from pump terminal L1 to L2. This should be definite number. If it's infinite or O.L, the motor windings are bad.
6) Measure resistance from L1 to ground and L2 to ground. The resistance should be infinite or O.L, which means "Open Line" or "Over Limit".
 
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It's been a few years, but I remember how to measure voltages.
Ok, I never know how much experience someone has.

Also, it's very unusual to have 240 measured at the pump with no noise at all unless the windings opened up. This is not impossible but it is unlikely. The tests should show if the windings are open.

Check the capacitor to see if it looks bulged at the terminals. Test the capacitance of the capacitor to see if it matches the capacitance listed on the label or just try a new capacitor.
 
Confirmed infinite resistance between L1 and L2. Windings must be open.

My multimeter doesn't have a capacitance setting, but I tested it on the resistance setting. It's charging just fine. Looks like the motor is shot.
 
Confirmed infinite resistance between L1 and L2. Windings must be open.
Ok, that's unusual.

Hopefully, it will be covered under warranty.

Maybe ask for a variable speed motor as a replacement. Offer to pay the difference between the single speed motor and the variable speed.

Tell the service tech to bring the new motor so that you don't have to waste time with a diagnostic visit and then wait another week while they order the parts.
 
If Hayward pays for parts and labor for a single speed pump motor it would be about the same cost as if they just sent you a variable speed motor and no labor.

If you're willing to do the labor, make a deal with Hayward to send you a variable speed motor and you will do the work.

Offer to send them the old motor if they want proof that the motor is really defective.
 

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