Hayward HTC-4-ACT-RC LCD display dead

[Jeff_E]

I have a Hayward HTC-4-ACT-RC controller that has a dead LCD screen. Everything else seems to be working as normal. Just nothing on the display screen. Pool equipment is running like normal and spa side remote still works like normal. Is there a way to fix the screen, or do I need to replace the controll unit assembly with screen, buttons, and small circuit board?
Thanks,
Jeff

 

[Jaimslaw]

Unfortunately, there is very little in the way of trouble shooting steps to be able to determine if it’s a bad main board or bad control/display.

If you are handy with a multi meter: check for voltage at the pins where the display connects to the board by disconnecting the display’s ribbon cable from the control board which will expose the 4 connecting pins on the main board and then seei if you have 18-24 volts when touching the meter’s leads to pins 1 and 3 with your system powered on (those pins being Hayward’s typical pwr source and voltage for its displays). No or low voltage would mean your main board is bad somewhere (e.g., bad,rectifier or maybe bad transformer; less likely it’s a blown 24v fuse keeping power from feeding those display connection pins). On the other hand, should you be able to determine through this step that adequate power is getting to the display at the point it connects to the board (at those pins), then it’s most likely a bad display. But that doesn’t necessarily mean purchase of a new $450 display cures things. That is, while your new display may show its alive (LED readout), it may still fail to properly respond due to remaining undetermined main board issues.

While this troubleshooting effort may well be somethimg you’re not prepared to undertake, it should help to underscore how vexing - and pricey - it can be to both find the problem and to resolve the display issue.

Regrettably, your system is no longer being made - and making matters worse, it was not a widely purchased Hayward system. This accounts for the scant number of listed eBay components available for your system. While A few complete systems can still be found . . .as well as a few $800 replacement main boards and $450–500 displays, it’s still a real investment gamble.

Given the foregoing, you risk adding cargo to a leaking boat should you engage in expensive piecemeal component purchases in attempts to keep your system alive. It would be a far wiser investment to channel your resources into purchase of an updated system (pricey as that will be).

 

[Jeff_E]

Unfortunately, there is very little in the way of trouble shooting steps to be able to determine if it’s a bad main board or bad control/display.

If you are handy with a multi meter: check for voltage at the pins where the display connects to the board by disconnecting the display’s ribbon cable from the control board which will expose the 4 connecting pins on the main board and then seei if you have 18-24 volts when touching the meter’s leads to pins 1 and 3 with your system powered on (those pins being Hayward’s typical pwr source and voltage for its displays). No or low voltage would mean your main board is bad somewhere (e.g., bad,rectifier or maybe bad transformer; less likely it’s a blown 24v fuse keeping power from feeding those display connection pins). On the other hand, should you be able to determine through this step that adequate power is getting to the display at the point it connects to the board (at those pins), then it’s most likely a bad display. But that doesn’t necessarily mean purchase of a new $450 display cures things. That is, while your new display may show its alive (LED readout), it may still fail to properly respond due to remaining undetermined main board issues.

While this troubleshooting effort may well be somethimg you’re not prepared to undertake, it should help to underscore how vexing - and pricey - it can be to both find the problem and to resolve the display issue.

Regrettably, your system is no longer being made - and making matters worse, it was not a widely purchased Hayward system. This accounts for the scant number of listed eBay components available for your system. While A few complete systems can still be found . . .as well as a few $800 replacement main boards and $450–500 displays, it’s still a real investment gamble.

Given the foregoing, you risk adding cargo to a leaking boat should you engage in expensive piecemeal component purchases in attempts to keep your system alive. It would be a far wiser investment to channel your resources into purchase of an updated system (pricey as that will be).

Thanks for this info. Super helpful! Guess I’ll break out the multi meter and do more trouble shooting. Not thrilled to buy parts for a discontinued system. Might have to look into a new unit, but wonder if I’m limited based on compatibility of other existing pool equipment.

 

[ajw22]

Might have to look into a new unit, but wonder if I’m limited based on compatibility of other existing pool equipment.

An Omni Hub or OmniPL system will be compatible.

What do you have that you think will cause compatibility issues?

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks for this info. Super helpful! Guess I’ll break out the multi meter and do more trouble shooting. Not thrilled to buy parts for a discontinued system. Might have to look into a new unit, but wonder if I’m limited based on compatibility of other existing pool equipment.

Do you mean an HPC-4-act-rc, an E-Command? If so, the Hayward HLXPROUPG is the upgrade kit that will fit the panel and be able to control your Hayward pump.
It is the Omni upgrade that allows wifi control. If you have the proper wiring and power available, you would also be able to add relays to control more than 4 items.

​

 

[Jeff_E]

An Omni Hub or OmniPL system will be compatible.

What do you have that you think will cause compatibility issues?

I was originally thinking about switching to a pentair controller and getting away from the Hayward one because I was thinking pentair was a little more reliable. We have a friend with all pentair equipment and I was pretty impressed by it. But that could also be because their pool is like 8 years newer than mine. But after looking into it more it seems to be a Crud shoot with any brand of pool equipment. So I might as well stick with a Hayward controller when I upgrade.

 

[Jeff_E]

Do you mean an HPC-4-act-rc, an E-Command? If so, the Hayward HLXPROUPG is the upgrade kit that will fit the panel and be able to control your Hayward pump.
It is the Omni upgrade that allows wifi control. If you have the proper wiring and power available, you would also be able to add relays to control more than 4 items.

​

Yes, I believe the controller I have is the HPC-4-act-rc model. Can’t find a part number to confirm that, but that’s one of the models listed on the user manual. Looks like I’m going to have to go with the Hayward retrofit/upgrade kit to swap out the older controller.

 

[1poolman1]

Yes, I believe the controller I have is the HPC-4-act-rc model. Can’t find a part number to confirm that, but that’s one of the models listed on the user manual. Looks like I’m going to have to go with the Hayward retrofit/upgrade kit to swap out the older controller.

Good decision. Nice to see another, older EcoStar still running. Mine's over 15 years old. They had an issue with those pumps, mainly the drives, and went with a completely different manufacturer to get it straightened out. I got a good one and have had zero issues with it.
If you had gone to a Pentair system you would have either needed to get a new pump as well or use relay control, which is not as easy on a Hayward VSP as it is on other brands. With the Omni you will have more than 2 speed-settings available if you need them.

 

[Jeff_E]

Looks like I’m going to be getting the Hayward omniPL upgrade kit. Anybody have recommendations for good, reputable online dealers? I’m seeing a few different price ranges for the same equipment, so that makes me think some of the dealers may be too good to be true. Thx.