Hayward (H400IDL) Heater Stuck in Standby

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C

Cultcab

0
Oct 23, 2016
49
Roseville, CA
I am not able to get our heater to work and I noticed that the control panel is displaying "standby" even when I set the heater to the pool or the spa. I tried resetting the breaker, but it is still stuck in standby mode.

Is there another way to reset the panel or get it out of standby mode? We never use the panel (we only use the Jandy control panel in the house or at our spa), but it has a lot of wear with the plastic covering peeling in several locations.
 
You say you have a Jandy control panel. Is that an Auqalink system? Is your heater connected to the Aqualink system?

If so the Aqualink should be controlling your heater remotely, not the Hayward heater control panel.

Do you have heat enabled on the Aqualink?
 
I am using the Aqualink to control the heater. It was working fine for several years with no problems. I replaced the bypass valve a couple months ago and the heater has worked twice since then. Went to use it last week and it wouldn’t turn on.

I haven’t disabled the heater in the Aqualink, but I will check to see if it’s locked out.
 
What Aqualink control panel do you have? All button or one touch or PDA?

You should just be controlling your heater using the Aqualink controls and not anything on the heater.
 
It’s an RS6 with the Spalink for the jacuzzi.

I probably should have clarified the problem. I’m not able to turn on the heater using the Aqualink. The heater light on the Aqualink turns on (red), but the heater never comes on.

I noticed that the standby light on the heater stayed on and does switch to spa/pool.
 
Check the connection of the 2 wire “fireman’s switch “ cable between the Aqualink and the heater.
 
I am not sure how you tested the firemans switch. You should first test it for continuity. The Aqualink connection is just a relay that closes the circuit and has no voltage on it. With the Aqualink demanding heat the relay should be closed and with no heat the relay should be open.

The "firemans switch" circuit carries 24V AC from the heater. If you put the multimeter in series with the firemans switch and the Aqualink heat relay is closed you should see 24V AC on the line. If you don't then the problem is in the heater with one of it's safeties being open.

For more on how the firemans switch works you can read Heater Control with Automation - Further Reading

I would jumper the firemans switch in the heater on the terminal block in the Control Module to remove it from the Aqualink control. See page 18 in the manual below. Then see if the heater fires. The Troubleshooting guide begins on page 36.

The manual for your heater is at --> https://www.parts4heating.com/v/vspfiles/images/pdfs/HSLowNOxID.pdf

Hayward H-Series Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Let us know what you find.

@Pool Clown @ps0303 @swamprat69 @1poolman1
 
What voltage do you get at the jumper at the terminal block?

Start measuring voltage following the top of the Troubleshooting page 37 and see where it leads you.
 

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I had the pool technician out yesterday to troubleshoot the heater and he determined that the control panel in the heater is most likely the culprit. The key pad is deteriorated from exposure to the weather, so it was difficult to troubleshoot (i.e. we could not manually put it into spa or pool mode because the buttons don't work anymore).

I'm not sure that it makes sense for me to invest $400 to $500 to replace the control board given that the heater is 20 years old. The technician recommended a heater replacement, but I'd like to get some other opinions.

He suggested the Sta-Rite Max E Therm (400K BTU) as a replacement for my Hayward. He didn't really give a good reason as to why he recommended that one over the Hayward or Pentair. Are there significant pros/cons with the Sta-Rite that would steer me in (or from) that direction? The Hayward seems to get good reviews on most sites I checked.
 
Probably best not to throw money into a 20 year old heater.

Heaters are a commodity. They all basically work the same way. The Sta-Rite Max E Therm is made by Pentair and is the same as the Pentair MasterTemp except in a different packaging.

Lot's of folks here like the Raypak. Biggest differnce is the MasterTemp and Sta-Rite heaters are forced draft using an expensive blower. That gives them a smaller package. The Raypak is a natural draft heater with simpler parts and controls and less expensive to repair.
 
The control panel button membrane can be bought pretty inexpensively, they're on Amazon for about 30 bucks (non-OEM). But, since you can switch the heater on using your Aqualink setup that probably won't change much of anything. You mentioned the display LED will change from 'standby' to 'pool' when selected in your automation, so the next step would be to see what error codes are showing up on the 3 digit display. Does that light up? My H400 display was weathered and in sad shape too, where I couldn't read the numbers. But thankfully the heater itself worked fine. I ended up fixing my display myself to save some money.

Hayward publishes a troubleshooting guide that might be helpful. When the pool guy came out, did he inspect the hard parts of the heater (burner assy, etc.) and say whether they were in good shape?
 
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