Lots of good advice but this comes down to low voltage at the gas valve. My guess control board.
Hayward H400ED2 heater code HF
- Thread starter nexx2
- Start date
I have had to put the heater repair on the back burner for awhile.
I checked the voltages again and wanted to post to re verify that it is most likely the control board.
When the standby LED is lit the voltage at the gas valve is steady at 15.24vAC
When I switch to pool mode LED on voltage fluctuates from 14.96 - 15.96 vAC.
Shortly after the flashing HF code flashes in the display and the voltage is steady 15.97AC
Thanks again....I will update.
I checked the voltages again and wanted to post to re verify that it is most likely the control board.
When the standby LED is lit the voltage at the gas valve is steady at 15.24vAC
When I switch to pool mode LED on voltage fluctuates from 14.96 - 15.96 vAC.
Shortly after the flashing HF code flashes in the display and the voltage is steady 15.97AC
Thanks again....I will update.
I'm sorry you are having this issue with the board but it does seem that you need to replace the board in question. Did you check the soldered spot like I mentioned earlier?
I don't recall checking that, but I will before ordering a control board. Thanks for reminding.
UPDATE: I replaced the control board and that fixed the the problem I was having. I now get 27 vac on the 2 wires connected to the gas valve when it is cycling and the HF code does not appear anymore. However, after it cycles 3 times it flashes IF code.
I smell gas each time it tries to light. I checked to make sure the igniter wire was connected to the new control board, no dirt dobbers blocking the jets. How can I verify the igniter needs to be replaced? Before the control board went out I recall the heater having to cycle a couple of times before lighting.
I smell gas each time it tries to light. I checked to make sure the igniter wire was connected to the new control board, no dirt dobbers blocking the jets. How can I verify the igniter needs to be replaced? Before the control board went out I recall the heater having to cycle a couple of times before lighting.
It sounds like the ignitor is making the clicking noise for a few seconds and then i hear a wooshing noise like the gas valve turned off and it repeats this 3 times before showing the IF code. I don't know if it makes any sense to say the ignitor does not sound as loud as it use to be. My hearing is a little off.
One evening this week I will take the bottom panel off to see if I can determine that it is actually the ignitor turning on.
One evening this week I will take the bottom panel off to see if I can determine that it is actually the ignitor turning on.
If it lights and then goes out within 4 seconds, the ignitor is bad and needs to be replaced. You could remove it and try cleaning it first with some steel wool and see if that helps any. If not, replace it.
The heater Fired Up twice each time on the first try!
I took the igniter out laying it on its side and verified the arc across the electrodes. I noticed that I had not slipped the rubber boot over the connector on the back of the new control board. Put the igniter back in and powered up and the heater lit on the first try. Let it cool down and put the lower panel back on and again fired up on first try. So I don't know how I fixed it but it is working great right now. Thanks everyone who posted up!
I took the igniter out laying it on its side and verified the arc across the electrodes. I noticed that I had not slipped the rubber boot over the connector on the back of the new control board. Put the igniter back in and powered up and the heater lit on the first try. Let it cool down and put the lower panel back on and again fired up on first try. So I don't know how I fixed it but it is working great right now. Thanks everyone who posted up!
IF 90% of the time is a gas related problem. If the ignitor was not arcing the code would be different. I would make sure all the orifices and burners are clean. If the problem is gas supply into the valve you will need a manometer to check.
90% of the time it IS the ignitor from my real world experience. What will happen is the ignitor will light and then go out in 4 seconds. It tries a second time and then a third time. At this point if the unit does not stay lit, the IF code appears. Replace the ignitor and the unit will light and stay lit.