Hayward H350FDN IF Failure PLEASE HELP?

AAbdu

0
Aug 20, 2017
3
Farmington Hills, MI
Hi, My name is Anthony and I desperately need some help, as I am pulling out what's left of my hair.

I have a Hayward H350FDN Pool heater that lights only when it feels like it. I will provide every detail I have including what has already been tried, in order to help you, hopefully, help me.

I have spent the last 4 hours reading through everything written on here that is even remotely related to my problem and can't find a solution that I have not already tried (it's possible I missed it as my vision is starting to blur).

Here is the situation:

  • Heater will come on, pre-ignition fan will start, and I will hear the whoosh of ignition and feel heat out of the top vents. That will last between 2 and 5 seconds then goes off. As designed, it will try again in about 30 seconds until it has gone through 3 cycles, then the dreaded IF code is displayed.

Situational observations: (may or may not be relevant)

  • For some reason the problem is intermittent and seems to have a lot to do with either outside temperature or time of day. It will fire and stay lit almost without fail first thing in the morning. Almost never during the heat of the day, and when it is in the mood in the evenings.
  • Heater seems to be slightly more reliable when the weather is cooler.
  • It is most likely to work when I first turn the pump on and almost NEVER when the pump has been running a few hours.
  • Sometimes being stubborn helps, if I try 4 or 5 cycles of 3 (that's 15 start attempts) sometimes it will light and stay lit.

What has been done to try to fix it: (by professional pool guy (at great expense))

  • Confirmed gas is on and the gas line is clear with sufficient pressure
  • New Igniter
  • New flame sensor
  • shop vacuumed out the entire unit
  • Taken off the burner nozzle and cleaned out each orifice (the spider web fix).
  • Both new and cleaned filters have been used
  • sufficient water flow confirmed

Final thoughts:
I considered my problem could still be a spider web, as it worked for 36 hours after my pool guy cleaned it.Then the problem started again. It's possible that he cleared the web, but not the spider, who promptly got to work on a new web. If that is the case, why does is still work every morning?

Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions you might have. My pool guy said he doesn't know what else to do and is considering calling an industrial boiler expert $$$$ Im terrified at what that might cost!

If you need any additional information to help address my issue please let me know and I will provide what I know.

Thank you
 
I hate to say it but is there any chance you have a pinhole leak in the exchanger? Did the service guy inspect it?

I ask because when my 15 year old Hayward EDM started throwing the IF code and we chased it, it turned out the exchanger was leaking.

That would line up with the more-trouble-when-pump-has-been-running phenom.
 
The 2-5 second burn time is the key here. This is usually the amount of free burn time the controller allows the gas valve to be open until the flame sense circuit engages. The flame sense circuit needs good clean ground paths thru the system to work properly as well as good clean connections on the flame sensor too. This means you need to check and clean the mounting points of the pilot assembly which provide the ground path for the flame sense circuit to the chassis.

Dan
 
Swampwoman;
I do not believe my pool guy checked the exchanger for pinhole leaks but I will reach out to him and find out for sure.

Dan,
That sounds logical, and will definitely be on the trouble shoot list going forward. After fighting with it last nigh with no luck at all, I went out this morning and it fired right up like a charm and ran with no issues. Why it works faithfully in the morning is truly perplexing, and I thought, would be the key to figuring it out.
 
Sounds like you might have a bad solder spot on the control board. Especially since you say it starts when it's cool out.

Personally on these FDN units, I have yet to run into the "spider web" on the orifice issue. More so on the older units with the open style burners. Possible, maybe, but I have yet to see one.

Welcome to the world of Hayward FDN heaters.

Find a company that works on them specifically. A licensed pool heating company. Not sure if your pool guy is the right person or not. I did a search on Hayward's site and used a zip code for your area and found a bunch of companies that are Hayward service companies. Use the link and insert your zip code. Make sure to choose Product Repair or Service under the Purpose of Search area.

Dealer Locator Find a Pool Professional | Pool Products | Hayward
 
AAbdu,
I had the same exact problem...Turned out a bit of pipe sealant falling on the internal spline gears inside my gas meter was the culprit. I had pressure, but not enough flow. Pressure would build up in my 150' 2" line enough to fire up the heater for a few seconds, and then off....IF My water heater, fire pit, fireplace, etc. all worked fine just not the pool heater. I went round and round with gas company tech who swore their stuff was good because my stove worked (roll eyes), but after a few more tests, they too were convinced...They took the meter apart, cleaned it and viola!! works like a charm again! Anyway, just though I'd share my 2 cnets...good luck!
 
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When ever I hear about the IF code I always go to having a manometer put on the incoming and outgoing side of the gas valve for gas flow. Flow is important here not pressure. Here are the check points.

Spider webs in the orifices and burners
Making sure the ground on the flame sensor is good
Right size gas meter installed. If other gas appliances are running it may starve the heater.
Gas line sizing is correct.

Make sure the technician has a Manometer or he is not a gas heater tech.
 
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