Hayward h250 delayed ignition

[gsf4726]

I have an older Hayward H250 propane heater with electronic ignition that recently has been having problems with delayed ignition. That is, I can hear the gas valve open and the igniter clicking at the same time, but the gas doesn't ignite for a couple seconds, causing a louder ignition than normal. It starts this way most of the time, though occasionally it'll start normally with a gentler "whoosh" ignition.

I have measured outlet pressure of the gas value inside the heater, and it reads exactly 9 W.C. which is what the manual calls for. I replaced the igniter a few years ago, so I don't think that's the problem. I've even turned the pressure down to ~8.5 W.C. and it usually starts more gently.

I've taken out the burner tubes and cleaned them as best I can, which is basically just using a wire brush on the outside. I can't really clean then inside due to their design. There's a smaller inner tube inside the outer tube with the holes in it. I can hear some stuff rattling around in there but can't really get it out. Perhaps the tube nearest the igniter has some obstruction inside preventing gas flow to it?

Was hoping someone might have some troubleshooting tips to diagnose this type of problem. Thanks!

 

[swamprat69]

It is also possible that you have a weak pilot from either a restricted orifice where the pilot tubing goes into the pilot assembly or restricted outlet(s) where the pilot flame comes out of the pilot assembly. Both can be cleaned with a toothbrush and blown out with your breath. The pilot orifice at the junction of the pilot tubing and the pilot assembly is held inside by a brass compression fitting and looks like a sewing thimble with a hole in the dome. Do Not Enlarge this hole trying to clean it!

 

[gsf4726]

Thanks for the reply! My heater has an electronic ignition so I'm fairly certain there's no pilot, just the electronic igniter positioned above the far left burner tube. Pretty simple, which is why I think this should be a straightforward fix. I've considered buying one new burner tube to replace the one closest to the igniter, but that's a shot in the dark, and would like to have some indication where the problem is.

 

[JamesW]

Remove and inspect Gas Orifices for blockage (Spider webs).

 

[gsf4726]

Thanks. Will do some more maintenance when I get the chance.

Does anyone know, is it right to think that the primary area of focus is on the gas getting to and through the one burner tube that is next to the electronic igniter or do all 5 tubes play an equal part in the initial ignition? Was thinking I could move one of the better looking tubes to be next to the igniter, or even just get one new one for that slot.

 

[JamesW]

Probably a blocked orifice or tube near the igniter.

 

[gsf4726]

Well, was able to clean all the orifices and even ran an inspection camera inside all of the burner tubes and didn't see any obstructions. I also put a mirror under the burners while it was running and saw even flames across the full length of all 5 burner tubes, which to me suggests that gas is flowing well. I think the flames all looked good, mostly blue with orange flickers towards the top. I didn't think about it at the time but I could post pictures to see what people here thought about it.

I turned my attention to the electric igniter so first checked the gap and it was in spec according to the manual (0.14"). I replaced it a few years ago and still looks good. Does anything think it might still be the problem?

It's very frustrating. The heater runs just fine except for the rather frequent loud ignition. Anyone know something else to look for?

 

[CPS Reno]

I would suggest that you call Hayward with your serial number. My memory isn't stellar, but I remember there was a problem with a "tweak" in the firebox design 3 or so years ago. This resulted in some loud/big start ups. Hayward had us replace a couple of the fireboxes then and I haven't seen an issue since then. The suggestions above may get you fixed up, but I'd call them just in case.

 

[gsf4726]

Really appreciate the response, but given the age of my heater, I don't have much hope that this particular problem would have been recently corrected by the manufacturer.

This weekend I plan on taking off the gas manifold completely and getting that cleaned out as best I can. From there, maybe buy one new burner tube to replace the one that the igniter sits next to. After that, I'm pretty much out of ideas...

 

[JamesW]

Try rotating the burner tubes so that a good one is next to the igniter.

 

[gsf4726]

Well, I completed my cleaning and reassembly of basically then entire burner system, and after a handful of starts, it seems like the problem was fixed ?

Here's what I did:
* took off the gas manifold and all the burner orifices (the inside looked fine, but blasted it out with an air compressor anyway)
* thoroughly cleaned each burner orifice, and reinserted in the manifold, ensuring all were inserted at the same depth (again, they all were visibly pretty clean)
* thoroughly cleaned each burner tube with wire brush, even devised a little vacuum attachment to insert inside to get mostly fine debris out
* thoroughly vacuumed out the fire box
* went ahead and replace the first burner tube because it was worth $50 to me to not have to take everything apart again

Attached some pictures as proof

There's definitely some rust happening on some unfinished metal parts, but none that are critical. Fire box and heat exchanger still look good for its age. Here's hoping I get a little more use out of it!

 

[coldwhiskey]

Hellol James
I just came across this thread. I have the same pool heater and its doing the same thing you mentioned above.\
Have had 2 gas service calls, they "cleaned out" the burners but the issue you had is still there.
Can you tell me if your fix replacing the 1st burner where the igniter is worked for a while or was it just as short term. Thanks, appreciate your posting.
Dave