Hayward H135ID1 IF code - ignites then immediately fails

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C

CSinnbad

Member
Jun 10, 2020
6
Dutchess County, NY
My H135ID1 is 2 years old and has performed flawlessly for 2 seasons. It is stored in a clean garage in the offseason. This year it it wouldn't startup throwing the IF code for ignition failure. Waiting on manometer from a friend to test natural pressure, but all valves are open and nothing has changed with the house gas pressure that I'm aware of.

Gas valve, flame sensor, and control board have been replaced. No clogging was found in the gas manifold or inlet ports. I can see the igniter heat up and when gas is turned on I get a very short ignition then immediately goes out, far less than 1 second of ignition, feel small burst of heat out the exhaust.

If it's not gas pressure, which I'm doubtful of, any other ideas?
 
CSinnbad said:
My H135ID1 is 2 years old and has performed flawlessly for 2 seasons. It is stored in a clean garage in the offseason. This year it it wouldn't startup throwing the IF code for ignition failure. Waiting on manometer from a friend to test natural pressure, but all valves are open and nothing has changed with the house gas pressure that I'm aware of.

Gas valve, flame sensor, and control board have been replaced. No clogging was found in the gas manifold or inlet ports. I can see the igniter heat up and when gas is turned on I get a very short ignition then immediately goes out, far less than 1 second of ignition, feel small burst of heat out the exhaust.

If it's not gas pressure, which I'm doubtful of, any other ideas?
Click to expand...
CSinnbad said:
My H135ID1 is 2 years old and has performed flawlessly for 2 seasons. It is stored in a clean garage in the offseason. This year it it wouldn't startup throwing the IF code for ignition failure. Waiting on manometer from a friend to test natural pressure, but all valves are open and nothing has changed with the house gas pressure that I'm aware of.

Gas valve, flame sensor, and control board have been replaced. No clogging was found in the gas manifold or inlet ports. I can see the igniter heat up and when gas is turned on I get a very short ignition then immediately goes out, far less than 1 second of ignition, feel small burst of heat out the exhaust.

If it's not gas pressure, which I'm doubtful of, any other ideas?
Click to expand...
After you rule out gas supply issues, the next thing to look at is the flame sensor. When the heater ignites the flame sensor sends a signal to keep the gas valve open but if the sensor is faulty the gas valve will close immediately. Here is a link to the troubleshooting manual for the heater. https://hayward-pool-assets.com/ass...Series_135K_ABG_Gas_Heater_Manual_ENGLISH.pdf

The “ IF” code resolution is on page 42.
 
Tested gas pressure, all good on inlet and outlet. Burners look good, replaced blower vacuum sensor also, and checked exhaust... all is good.... also checked 24V to gas valve... also good... any other ideas?!?! Also ohmed out the new flame sensor, it too is fine...
 
What were your gas pressure readings with the heater running? Hard to get readings with only 1 sec. or less of burner ignition. Trial for ignition should be 4 seconds. What do the burner flames look like through observation port when they do ignite?
 
We tested 2 conditions... with and without the gas dryer running... was 8.5" wc and 11.5" on the inlet... when it attempted to fire up it was around 2" on the outlet but hard to get a solid reading as it shut off so quickly... not getting any consistent flame, just a very short burst then immediately out....
 

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If your flame is dropping out in 1 second or less, I suggest that you put a meter on the gas valve as the heater starts up. If the voltage at the gas valve drops out in less than 1 second (it shouldn't drop out until the 4 second mark) you may have one of the safeties dropping out. If you look at the wiring diagram on page 18 ( on the right side ) you will see that the "blower vacuum switch" is not wired in series with the other safeties. I would try jumping out the "blower vacuum switch" to see if that is dropping out at start up. If it is not, you can cycle the heater multiple times while using your meter across each individual safety that is in series ( water press sw, both water temp limits and the flue gas temp limit ) to see if one of those are dropping voltage out. If they are closed, you would get a reading of 0 volts. Alternately you could jumper out each safety individually
 
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