Hayward Goldline Pro Logic Transformer smells like burning

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Golfer2000

Bronze Supporter
May 2, 2018
87
El Paso - TX
Pool Size
12400
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
The original setup is I'm guessing about 10-15 years old. About a year ago I switched over to a salt cell, adding it to the Pro Logic pl-p-4. Perhaps it was bumping it up to 60% or maybe it's done it all along but the other day I was near the box and smelled an electronics burning smell coming from it. The transformer appears very hot and I believe that is what is making the smell. I lowered the % and chose to just run the pump longer hoping that helps with the load/heat. My question is, is this normal? Chlorine generation appears fine. Should I replace the transformer preemptively to avoid any issues? Thoughts? Thanks!
 

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Just thoughts, maybe not a solution..... In my experience of working on many electronic systems over the years I have yet to run across a transformer that was running hot because it was bad or defective - almost always because of high or excessive load. I'm sure it happens, just that it seems rare to have the transformer being the cause. And it's not really unusual for them to give off a slight odor when running near maximum capacity and temperature. That said, people are buying / replacing that transformer, sold on amazon (for over $200, yikes), so perhaps something is going on. Also, I don't see any discoloration in your picture (even the label looks good) so still wondering if it's "too hot". I suppose the only scientific analysis would be to know the ratings for load and temp and compare to actual - a thermal IR gun or a meat thermometer could compare if you could find the rated max temperature. Or perhaps a call to Hayward would help. One simple test would be to shut off the SWG for a few hours and see if the transformer cools, then you would at least confirm whether the SWG is the culprit load (if there is a culprit or problem at all).

But you have another symptom: It seems very wrong to me that you might find a need to run that T-15 cell at 60% on a 12K gallon pool to achieve the needed chlorine level, even in the current warmer temps. It's nearly as warm here in SW FL with my 16K gallon pool rising to 89 on it's own (no heat running), and FC is always 2-3ppm with my aquarite T-15 cell set at 20% - even with our recent washout/deluge of 10" of rain over the last few days. I did have to add salt due to overflow loss. I usually run the T-15 at 10-15% in cooler weather. Keeping my CYA at 50-70ppm does assist that as well. Given a design life of the T-15 based on a 40,000 gallon pool, 60% tells me there is another issue. Not sure what that issue is - low or zero CYA, bad or dirty cell, defective controller, even the transformer? I don't have automation, just the stand alone Aquarite AQR15.

There are many threads here in TFP and elsewhere on the web that describe cell current draw expectations for various conditions, that may help. When testing it's also worth bearing in mind the active/rest cycles of the SWG based on percentage settings. It seems that my "generating chlorine" led is flashing even when it's in a rest cycle, so that can be deceptive. Those rest cycles were kindly described by @BMerrill here as well: SWG output: Discussion on Cell Cycle times vs. Scheduled run times

I hope some of that leads you to a positive place, and we're always interested in hearing from you about the ultimate resolution!
 
The diagnostics display the volts and amps.

High salt level will use greater amps which will create greater load on the transformer.
  • Report all readings when you..
    • Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.
    • When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
    • Then, press + again and note the new readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
 
nuttyp said:
Just thoughts, maybe not a solution..... In my experience of working on many electronic systems over the years I have yet to run across a transformer that was running hot because it was bad or defective - almost always because of high or excessive load. I'm sure it happens, just that it seems rare to have the transformer being the cause. And it's not really unusual for them to give off a slight odor when running near maximum capacity and temperature. That said, people are buying / replacing that transformer, sold on amazon (for over $200, yikes), so perhaps something is going on. Also, I don't see any discoloration in your picture (even the label looks good) so still wondering if it's "too hot". I suppose the only scientific analysis would be to know the ratings for load and temp and compare to actual - a thermal IR gun or a meat thermometer could compare if you could find the rated max temperature. Or perhaps a call to Hayward would help. One simple test would be to shut off the SWG for a few hours and see if the transformer cools, then you would at least confirm whether the SWG is the culprit load (if there is a culprit or problem at all).

But you have another symptom: It seems very wrong to me that you might find a need to run that T-15 cell at 60% on a 12K gallon pool to achieve the needed chlorine level, even in the current warmer temps. It's nearly as warm here in SW FL with my 16K gallon pool rising to 89 on it's own (no heat running), and FC is always 2-3ppm with my aquarite T-15 cell set at 20% - even with our recent washout/deluge of 10" of rain over the last few days. I did have to add salt due to overflow loss. I usually run the T-15 at 10-15% in cooler weather. Keeping my CYA at 50-70ppm does assist that as well. Given a design life of the T-15 based on a 40,000 gallon pool, 60% tells me there is another issue. Not sure what that issue is - low or zero CYA, bad or dirty cell, defective controller, even the transformer? I don't have automation, just the stand alone Aquarite AQR15.

There are many threads here in TFP and elsewhere on the web that describe cell current draw expectations for various conditions, that may help. When testing it's also worth bearing in mind the active/rest cycles of the SWG based on percentage settings. It seems that my "generating chlorine" led is flashing even when it's in a rest cycle, so that can be deceptive. Those rest cycles were kindly described by @BMerrill here as well: SWG output: Discussion on Cell Cycle times vs. Scheduled run times

I hope some of that leads you to a positive place, and we're always interested in hearing from you about the ultimate resolution!
Click to expand...
Sorry for the delay in answering, its been a busy few weeks. I will try testing turning off the swg for a bit to see if I still feel the heat and the smell. Maybe I'm doing something wrong here but I thought I was shooting for 8 FC with cya near 70 with a salt water pool. Now I will admit that I havent been doing my tests as much as I should besides FC and PH but my chlorine just wasnt staying high enough with the lower SWG percentage. I did just check and my CYA has fallen quite a bit to 40 so maybe that as something to do with it burning off.
 
ajw22 said:
The diagnostics display the volts and amps.

High salt level will use greater amps which will create greater load on the transformer.
  • Report all readings when you..
    • Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.
    • When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
    • Then, press + again and note the new readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Click to expand...
First reading: -25.01V -6.50A 81degrees F 3400 PPM
pressed + then read
+24.84V +6.96A 81degrees F 3700 PPM
Pressed + again
-24.84V -6.86A 81degrees F 3700PPM

Im not sure what you mean by the first 7 characters of the cell but it shows 942001E Rev K, T-CELL-15
the control box shows PL-P-4-X288

Actual salinity is 3600 PPM measured with a K-1766 test kit

Also we have been seeing 104 degree days with super crazy sun.

Thank you both for your help with this!
 
Your volts and amps are nominal. The transformer should be able to handle that with no problem.

Is your cell genuine Hayward or a clone cell?
 
ajw22 said:
Positive and negative indicate the polarity the cell is operating. Read SWG Generation Cycle Times - Further Reading

What is the serial number of your cell?
Click to expand...
I think it is 3E23005-700903 but that may be some other designator. Sorry for the delayed response. I did turn down the salt genration but Ive noticed my chlorine numbers are still pretty low.
 

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