I have a Hayward H250ED2 gas heater with electronic ignition. When I turn it on, it clicks once and (with the front panel off) I see orange (not blue) flames right away, but then it shuts off after about two seconds. No error code appears on the screen. I've checked and cleaned the orifices, not sure what to do next.
Hayward gas heater shuts off instantly
- Thread starter VAwaterboy
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,959
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Check the gas pressures with a manometer. Flame should be blue and not orange.
If the heat goes out within a few seconds of coming on you can have a clogged orifice, very left hand one, at the ignition and flame sense area. Spiders seem to like that orifice. Turn gas off at the external gas valve. Remove the gas pipe to the main valve, remove the 4 screws holding the manifold in place, examine all the orifices.
If you see a clog, remove the orifice (3/8" or 7/16" wrench, depending on what Hayward installed) and push the clog backward out of the orifice. If you don't remove the orifice the clog will just move to another area.
These are the easiest manifolds to remove and replace. While it is easier if you remove the wires from the main valve, you don't have to if you are careful. If you do, take a cell-phone picture first to put them back where the belong.
Be sure to use a bit of thread sealant when reassembling the gas line EXCEPT on the union. Make that very tight. Do not tighten the pipe into the main valve beyond where the old sealant shows, you can crack that valve if you overtighten. Use some soapy water to check for leaks. If not comfortable working on gas plumbing, hire a pro.
If the heat goes out within a few seconds of coming on you can have a clogged orifice, very left hand one, at the ignition and flame sense area. Spiders seem to like that orifice. Turn gas off at the external gas valve. Remove the gas pipe to the main valve, remove the 4 screws holding the manifold in place, examine all the orifices.
If you see a clog, remove the orifice (3/8" or 7/16" wrench, depending on what Hayward installed) and push the clog backward out of the orifice. If you don't remove the orifice the clog will just move to another area.
These are the easiest manifolds to remove and replace. While it is easier if you remove the wires from the main valve, you don't have to if you are careful. If you do, take a cell-phone picture first to put them back where the belong.
Be sure to use a bit of thread sealant when reassembling the gas line EXCEPT on the union. Make that very tight. Do not tighten the pipe into the main valve beyond where the old sealant shows, you can crack that valve if you overtighten. Use some soapy water to check for leaks. If not comfortable working on gas plumbing, hire a pro.
I was pretty sure the flame is supposed to be blue. As I said, I already cleaned all the orifices. I removed each one and did not find any clogs.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,959
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
swamprat69
Well-known member
Unless you are looking directly at the burner flames, the orange that you are seeing may be the ignitor warming up
I cleaned the rust out of the burner tubes with a wire brush. I was able to unscrew and remove the first burner tube (the one next to the igniter); on the others, the screws were too rusted, so I cleaned them in place. When I put the first burner tube back in place, I accidentally hit the igniter and broke off a piece of gray plastic. Now when I try to start the heater, I do not hear any click. I can buy a new igniter for $45; do the assembled experts agree that's the sensible thing to do?
swamprat69
Well-known member
Without being able to observe the actual condition of the heater and its parts it is difficult to give any advice or opinion. Please post multiple photos of the burner assembly, combustion chamber and inside front of the heater and broken ignitor.
To discussion starter; what is the age of the heater?
Do you run your heater in winters often when the pool temp is below 60 degrees?
Is your equipment pad under your roofline w no gutters?
The heater was here when I bought the house 17 years ago; I don't know when it was first installed. I close the pool at the end of September, so I never use the heater in winter and it is nowhere near the house. Photos coming.
An at least 17 yr old heater is a pretty good run. Rust upon rust and you're prob at the end of useful life. But as Allen stated, pics can (sometimes) provide a better perspective if detailed.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,959
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I think you are throwing money down the drain trying to get that rust bucket to work reliably.
I concur w Allen on this one. Ferric oxide has won the battle. Anything you try to unscrew prob won't, or it will break as already discovered. Consider yourself lucky that she hasn't already busted a leak or two.
Thanks for your advice, guys. I was leaning that way, which is why I've been trying to get the heat pump working (separate posting).