Hayward Ecostar 3400SVP Problem

Aug 8, 2018
15
Roseville
Moved from here.
This is the 2nd time i've had an issue with this pump. I installed in 2013. In 2018 it turned out to be a power issue from getting solar installed. Now it says this Error Pump Failed Check Motor and wet end for binding. I can't find any help for this problem and have no clue where to start any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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This is the 2nd time i've had an issue with this pump. I installed in 2013. In 2018 it turned out to be a power issue from getting solar installed. Now it says this Error Pump Failed Check Motor and wet end for binding. I can't find any help for this problem and have no clue where to start any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
If you installed that pump in 2013 and have only had 2 problems, you are the luckiest poster I've ever heard of on this forum.

Pls be careful if you engage in any precarious activists bc your luck has all been consumed w this pump.

More than likely your controller has outlasted your pump, which is very, very rare. I would not spend a time on this pump unless it's s capacitor or a $10-25 fix bc you're going to get a pump drive error soon and that's a $500/700 fix if you're not a soldering expert.

What other equipment do you have abs do you have automation ?

Btw, what are your pump settings on times you run it and RPMS? Also, what State do you reside? Looking to discern your annual temp ranges.

You have a pump
 
They aren't all nightmares honestly. Theres lots of good ecostars out there they just had a larger number of bad ones out there than others. I have one no issues and have installed a bunch with 1 problem child that's been replaced with a tristar.
Start by turning off all power and be sure. Remove lid and basket and reach in with fingers and see if its bound up. A mirror on a handle and flashlight or inspection camera are best. See if the impeller rotates. Bearings could be toast or maybe drive is bad but usually if so it's a drive error message
 
If you installed that pump in 2013 and have only had 2 problems, you are the luckiest poster I've ever heard of on this forum.

Pls be careful if you engage in any precarious activists bc your luck has all been consumed w this pump.

More than likely your controller has outlasted your pump, which is very, very rare. I would not spend a time on this pump unless it's s capacitor or a $10-25 fix bc you're going to get a pump drive error soon and that's a $500/700 fix if you're not a soldering expert.

What other equipment do you have abs do you have automation ?

Btw, what are your pump settings on times you run it and RPMS? Also, what State do you reside? Looking to discern your annual temp ranges.

You have a pump
I am far from a lucky person haha this pool since we moved in has been nothing but trouble don't even get me started on the HEATER!! anyways we switched to that pump and the prologic automation as well as a salt system in 2013.

Honestly i'm not sure what the pump settings are or the times, the guy that installed it set those up. We are in Northern California.
 
They aren't all nightmares honestly. Theres lots of good ecostars out there they just had a larger number of bad ones out there than others. I have one no issues and have installed a bunch with 1 problem child that's been replaced with a tristar.
Start by turning off all power and be sure. Remove lid and basket and reach in with fingers and see if its bound up. A mirror on a handle and flashlight or inspection camera are best. See if the impeller rotates. Bearings could be toast or maybe drive is bad but usually if so it's a drive error message
thanks i'll have him check that out! I'm tempted to just switch out the pump all together.
 
They aren't all nightmares honestly. Theres lots of good ecostars out there they just had a larger number of bad ones out there than others. I have one no issues and have installed a bunch with 1 problem child that's been replaced with a tristar.
Start by turning off all power and be sure. Remove lid and basket and reach in with fingers and see if its bound up. A mirror on a handle and flashlight or inspection camera are best. See if the impeller rotates. Bearings could be toast or maybe drive is bad but usually if so it's a drive error message
Well I was able to rea h in yesterday and check the impeller doesn't
 
Sounds like maybe bearings are bad if it doesnt free spin. You could install a cheapo to get by if you need one asap or pull it out and dissect it and repair. Its worth a couple dollars broken the drives sell in used condition if its good btw
 
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Sounds like maybe bearings are bad if it doesnt free spin. You could install a cheapo to get by if you need one asap or pull it out and dissect it and repair. Its worth a couple dollars broken the drives sell in used condition if its good btw
So i pulled it apart and seperated the motor from the drive today... there's nothing stuck in the impeller, and it maves easier. How do i know if i need to replace the motor or the drive? Hayward says it's one or the other but wants to send someone out.. but i installed over 7yrs ago so clearly won't be free especially since i disassembled it.
 
Is the diffuser supposed to have a small hole in it? I noticed when i was putting it back together there was a hole/crack. So i wonder if replacing that and the seals for like $30 may help. Since the error does say check wet end?
 
Post a good pic of it. Theres a few different revisions of the ecostar. The newer ones are way different internally. Chances are if it all spins freely and theres no visible damage or rust it's the drive. I've only seen one wet end go bad and it was obvious
 
Post a good pic of it. Theres a few different revisions of the ecostar. The newer ones are way different internally. Chances are if it all spins freely and theres no visible damage or rust it's the drive. I've only seen one wet end go bad and it was obvious
Post a good pic of it. Theres a few different revisions of the ecostar. The newer ones are way different internally. Chances are if it all spins freely and theres no visible damage or rust it's the drive. I've only seen one wet end go bad and it was obvious
 

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I dont think I've ever noticed that hole before but I've only had 2 apart ever internally. If its a factory vent hole it would be matched shape that looks like its symmetrical. Take a good look if its rough or odd shaped its got a hole from a rock. I've seen it cracked once but that affects priming. The wet end code could easily be mistaken for a drive error from control board or even a bad start capacitor. Theres a video on how to solder in new parts on the drive.
 
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I dont think I've ever noticed that hole before but I've only had 2 apart ever internally. If its a factory vent hole it would be matched shape that looks like its symmetrical. Take a good look if its rough or odd shaped its got a hole from a rock. I've seen it cracked once but that affects priming. The wet end code could easily be mistaken for a drive error from control board or even a bad start capacitor. Theres a video on how to solder in new parts on the drive.
Inyo pools has a 360 view of that piece and i can't see any holes on it normally.
 
I dont think I've ever noticed that hole before but I've only had 2 apart ever internally. If its a factory vent hole it would be matched shape that looks like its symmetrical. Take a good look if its rough or odd shaped its got a hole from a rock. I've seen it cracked once but that affects priming. The wet end code could easily be mistaken for a drive error from control board or even a bad start capacitor. Theres a video on how to solder in new parts on the drive.
so i just pulled the impeller off to replace that and the seals, shaft seals and diffusser and i'm wondering if maybe it was an issue with the shaft seals?
 

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