The check valve in my Hayward EC65 is broken. From the diagram in the manual, it looks like all I need to do is remove this elbow and the valve is in there - easier said than done! This thing won't budge. I can pull back the tab no problem, but no matter how hard I pull up: nothing. I've tried wiggling side to side, up and down, I don't think this thing will ever move. Is there a trick to this? Or is it just full of years of DE and other debris?
Hayward EC65 Check Valve Replacement
- Thread starter bmatcuk
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,756
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It should pull directly up. You are not the only one to find removal difficult...
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Can't Remove Elbow Assembly/ Check Valve
Hi, I have a hayward EC65 and I'm trying to get to the check valve inside the filter. I'm guessing that I need to remove the elbow assembly, but it's stuck in there pretty good. Any ideas on how to take it out? I don't want break anything. I attached a photo of the part I'm referring to. If...
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Any advice for loosening it? It literally shows zero signs of moving no matter what I do =(
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,756
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil has never let me down in loosening stuck fasteners. I would get some, let it soak in, then try your best ways to pull it loose. It helped loosen this stuck plug...
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www.kroil.com
DE Filter drain plug damaged - can't remove
My drain plug is really stuck. It keeps disintegrating further as I try to remove using various means. It is really old and isn't holding up well to my attempts. I tried using screwdriver on outside and pliers from inside simultaneously and how am left with big hole in the middle. Any advice...
www.troublefreepool.com
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Thanks! That looks promising. I'll see if I can find some locally today and, if not, order from Amazon and report back how it goes =)
No luck - that thing still won't budge. Do I need to remove the union ball connector on the outside of the tank before I can remove this elbow? If so, is there anything I need to know about removing it? From the diagram in the manual, it looks like it just screws into the tank - I'm guessing there's probably some plumber's tape on the threads or something.
Ya, I can read, thanks - it's in, like, 20pt raised font, all caps. Hard to miss. Hurts my hand when trying to lift because the raised text digs into my hand.
I push in the tab - it's pushed in enough to clear the clip. But no amount of lifting will get the Dang thing to budge.
But thanks for chiming in. I dunno what I'd do without your help.
I push in the tab - it's pushed in enough to clear the clip. But no amount of lifting will get the Dang thing to budge.
But thanks for chiming in. I dunno what I'd do without your help.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,756
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Pictures of the Hayward ec65 check valve ecx4220a copied off the net show that it just slides in and is one piece.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,756
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I would have one person hold the tab out with a screwdriver while another person puts a block of wood under the valve and gives it a few raps with a rubber mallet.
There's a little extra bit on mine that is behind the tab - I don't see it on your pictures, but it's part of the elbow. You can see it in my picture next to the word "press". I've been using small locking pliers to pull the tab back to that. There's really no way to get anything under the elbow, though... it's pretty close to the bottom of the tank. I have a deadblow hammer whose head just barely fits between it and the bottom of the tank - I've tried using that to sort of pry the elbow, but I get nothing. I've tried smacking the elbow, too, hoping it might dislodge whatever debris is causing it to stick - hasn't helped.
It's showing no signs of moving. That's why I was wondering if maybe something is in the way of it lifting up - like, maybe if the pipe on the outside of the tank had been screwed in too far or too tightly? But when I shine a flashlight in, it looks like there's about a centimeter between the pipe and the check valve in the elbow, so I guess that's not the issue...
It's showing no signs of moving. That's why I was wondering if maybe something is in the way of it lifting up - like, maybe if the pipe on the outside of the tank had been screwed in too far or too tightly? But when I shine a flashlight in, it looks like there's about a centimeter between the pipe and the check valve in the elbow, so I guess that's not the issue...
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,756
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If the valve is broken I would start taking my dremel tool to it and cutting off pieces around the tab until I get it out. I would begin my cutting out that extra bit that is behind the tab.
Maybe the O-ring or part of the check valve is out of place and interfering with the movement?
Try slipping something thin like a flat hacksaw blade in between to feel if it's clear.
Maybe put a rope around the part and then use the dead blow hammer to hammer upward on the rope.
If necessary, you can use a wire saw to cut the part out and then try to feel for what's blocking the movement.
Try slipping something thin like a flat hacksaw blade in between to feel if it's clear.
Maybe put a rope around the part and then use the dead blow hammer to hammer upward on the rope.
If necessary, you can use a wire saw to cut the part out and then try to feel for what's blocking the movement.
Did you ever find the brass disc that came loose?
That might be what's jammed in the gap.
Take the outside fitting out to see what's blocking the movement
That might be what's jammed in the gap.
Take the outside fitting out to see what's blocking the movement
Ya, I've been thinking that I might need to destroy the elbow to get it out =( It's not an expensive part, but I was trying to avoid that - I don't want to risk damaging the tank since it's ~$300. The elbow itself is fine, it's just the check valve that needs replaced. I also don't know how hard it'll be to destroy it - it seems like it's pretty thick plastic, and the check valve is likely to get in the way of destroying it close to the slot, which is really where I'd need to cut it to get it out.
I've also been thinking of trying to get something thin and metal in there, but I don't have anything on hand. Might hit a hardware store to see what I can find.
The brass disk is still attached to the check valve, but hanging on by a thread. Looks like the check valve is made out of rubber or something, with the brass disk in the middle. But the rubber has a big hole in it.
I've also been thinking of trying to get something thin and metal in there, but I don't have anything on hand. Might hit a hardware store to see what I can find.
The brass disk is still attached to the check valve, but hanging on by a thread. Looks like the check valve is made out of rubber or something, with the brass disk in the middle. But the rubber has a big hole in it.
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This will cut through the part easily.
I think that we have been looking at this incorrectly.
The video shows that the check valve can come out the front.
The video shows that the check valve can come out the front.