Hayward C1750 question: internal white tube

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CFlaPool

CFlaPool

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Apr 21, 2021
166
Satellite Beach, Florida
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
At the bottom of the filter housing is a white tube. In the past, I have done my best to feed it up into the center cavity of the filter, maneuvering the filter to get it to get up inside. My latest filter has internal supports at top, botton, and middle, making it difficult to get the tube up the center. What is this tube for, and do I have to get it up the center of the filter?
 
CFlaPool said:
At the bottom of the filter housing is a white tube. In the past, I have done my best to feed it up into the center cavity of the filter, maneuvering the filter to get it to get up inside. My latest filter has internal supports at top, botton, and middle, making it difficult to get the tube up the center. What is this tube for, and do I have to get it up the center of the filter?
Click to expand...
After a while, that air-relief tube, which starts out straight, gets warped. It is needed, and you have to patiently work it up through the center. You may want to replace it if it is too much of a pain to deal with. Sometimes hard to get back into its spot in the bottom of that deep tank.
Hayward part CX1750Z4.
 
1poolman1 said:
After a while, that air-relief tube, which starts out straight, gets warped. It is needed, and you have to patiently work it up through the center. You may want to replace it if it is too much of a pain to deal with. Sometimes hard to get back into its spot in the bottom of that deep tank.
Hayward part CX1750Z4.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice. I ordered that and a new pressure valve this morning. So I guess I am doing a small rebuild on that filter. My Rebel V2 often climb the walls and sucks in air. Every day I have to bleed the air out of the filter.
 
CFlaPool said:
Thanks for the advice. I ordered that and a new pressure valve this morning. So I guess I am doing a small rebuild on that filter. My Rebel V2 often climb the walls and sucks in air. Every day I have to bleed the air out of the filter.
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" Bleeding air" is the purpose of that tube, so you don't have to do it. The only reason to regularly open the air relief is before opening the filter to clean it, unless you want to.
 
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1poolman1 said:
" Bleeding air" is the purpose of that tube, so you don't have to do it. The only reason to regularly open the air relief is before opening the filter to clean it, unless you want to.
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I guess that is what I was getting at. My current issue is a symptom of the bad tube. Thanks for confirming!
 
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I installed the new tube today, cleaned the 2-month-old filter, and installed a new genuine Hayward pressure gauge on the filter. The old one was over 20 yrs old and well worn. The new tube now goes up the center of the filter, and the conical plastic cap sits on top of that.

At 3000 rpm (I did my research on TFP - thanks to all here), the pressure gauge barely reads 4 psi. Water flows great. I made sure nothing is blocking the gauge inside. Is anything wrong? Pic is when running 3000 rpm. At 1500, it is pretty much zero.

IMG_0903.jpeg
 
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Is there a possibility that the genuine Hayward gauge, sent in its original Hayward packaging, is bad? Should I return it and get this one from TF ? And is this the correct gauge? See pic.

Edit: From reading other threads here, I think this may be my normal. We just had our heater replaced and put in the Pentair bypass for it, so water flows through 2” pipe all the way to SWG from it to the returns/spa valve. I am getting excellent flow at lower RPMs than when all water was going through the old heater. My Rebel 2 cleaner is happy now at 1900 rpm. So my head loss is minimal.

IMG_5090.jpegIMG_5102.jpeg
 
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CFlaPool said:
Is there a possibility that the genuine Hayward gauge, sent in its original Hayward packaging, is bad? Should I return it and get this one from TF ? And is this the correct gauge? See pic.

Edit: From reading other threads here, I think this may be my normal. We just had our heater replaced and but in the Pentair bypass for it, so water flows through 2” pipe all the way to SWG from it to the returns/spa valve. I am getting excellent flow at lower RPMs than when all water was going through the old heater. My Rebel 2 cleaner is happy now at 1900 rpm. So my head loss is minimal.

View attachment 577064View attachment 577065
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Gauges are rather simple items. Can you get a bad one? It is possible. Hayward doesn't make gauges any more than they make motors. They buy them from a manufacturer that puts "Hayward" on the face. If you want a new one, get a 0-30 psi, liquid filled, stainless steel one for accuracy and longer life. For pools, they are all 1/4" MPT gauges.
 
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1poolman1 said:
Gauges are rather simple items. Can you get a bad one? It is possible. Hayward doesn't make gauges any more than they make motors. They buy them from a manufacturer that puts "Hayward" on the face. If you want a new one, get a 0-30 psi, liquid filled, stainless steel one for accuracy and longer life. For pools, they are all 1/4" MPT gauges.
Click to expand...
Thanks. My original gauge had a formerly clear plastic cover, so it was unreadable without removing the cover. I took off the new one, and re-installed the old gauge (without the cover). The old one reads 20psi at 3000 rpm and 6-8 psi at 1300rpm. Is that a more reasonable pressure than 4psi from the new one?
 
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