Hayward Aqua Rite SWG low salt

[wbrisett]

So, I'm really out of ideas here. I'm having an issue with a three year old system. It has been perfect up to now. I ran into an issue where the low salt and Inspect cell were solid. I checked and the instant salt was low, as was the average. Put in a few bags of salt, water test run and salt level was now actually a bit high at 3900. OK, fine. But the readings on the system were still sitting at 2300. I clean and inspected the T3 cell, no dice. Read a ton of questions and finally bit the bullet and just replaced the T3 cell. However, that didn't fix the problem. In fact, the same symptoms and same readings. I tried to recalibrate the unit, but it never got above 2400, so it made little sense to try to 'calibrate' it.

Pool temp: 72
Cell Voltage: 25.9
Cell Current 6.33
desired output: 70p
instant salinity: -2400

Misc:
AL-0
R 1.59
T3

I tried the trick of setting the system to read as a T15 instead of T3 and can get the salinity levels closer to what they actually are... So to me it looks like the main control board may be due for replacement. Before I do that, does anybody else have any ideas? Because I'm all out.

 

[JamesW]

Change the setting to T3 and recheck the diagnostic readings.

 

[wbrisett]

James, those readings were with it set properly. Or are you saying maybe now that I’ve switched it, moving it back may fix things?

 

[JamesW]

Those numbers had to be for a T15.

Switch to a T-3 and recheck the diagnostic readings.

Most likely, the instant salinity will jump up to about 6,500 ppm.

 

[JamesW]

If the current is 6.33 amps with the setting on T-3, the salinity would read higher than 5,000 ppm.

 

[JamesW]

If the high salt warning light goes off with it set to T-3, you will probably have to lower the salinity.

You can switch the setting to T-5 or T-9 to make it work, but you should probably reduce the salinity.

Do you have a K-1766 salt test kit?

 

[Pool_Medic]

3 years for a t-3 could be pushing it depending on what % you run it at.

 

[JamesW]

They say that they replaced the cell.

In any case, it's producing 6.3 amps, which is about double what it should be able to do.

Either the new cell is bigger than a T-3 or the salinity is over 5,000 ppm.

 

[wbrisett]

James... you're right!!!! I rechecked and my salinity is WAY out of whack. I'm going to have to drain the pool to get it back in sync. It's closer to 6000 ppm! Double what it should be. Yet my system when set to T3 isn't saying high salt. Go figure. That's the whole reason I'm in this mess. it kept telling me I was low and my salt strips were quite old and seemed to be not doing as good of a job (I think 3 years past date is obviously too long). Anyhow, I'm going to bring down the salt level and see what happens. Thanks for the pointers, they got me to reexamine my readings.

 

[wbrisett]

So, it's been a while and after draining and refilling and such, I'm of the mind that the board must be bad. The salt reading done manually states the pool is now at a still a bit high, but reasonable 3500. Yet, the instant readings and calibration are at 500 and won't budge. I've tried to calibrate and the unit simply stays at 500. I have a video of thing here:

IMG_5754.MOV

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

before dropping $300+ on a new board, I would like to know if folks have other suggestions. For the record, I know it's generating clorine when running (and I have recently replaced the T3 turbo cell).

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading in each polarity.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

So, it's been a while and after draining and refilling and such, I'm of the mind that the board must be bad. The salt reading done manually states the pool is now at a still a bit high, but reasonable 3500. Yet, the instant readings and calibration are at 500 and won't budge. I've tried to calibrate and the unit simply stays at 500. I have a video of thing here:

IMG_5754.MOV

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

before dropping $300+ on a new board, I would like to know if folks have other suggestions. For the record, I know it's generating clorine when running (and I have recently replaced the T3 turbo cell).

Interesting! You have the newest revision 1.59, the best you can get. I watched the video but you pushed the diagnostic button too fast and we missed reading important numbers that might be able to help us help you better. Can you please run the diagnostics again and post all the readings? Please follow the instructions above this post.

 

[wbrisett]

Pool temp: 90
Cell Voltage: 26.6
Cell Current 5.02
desired output: 70p
manual salinity check: (performed with test strips): somewhere between 3410 and 3700

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

 

[wbrisett]

T-cell is T3, setting is T3. And I replaced the cell recently thinking that was the initial issue. Putting the old one one, gives me identical results!

Pool temp: 90
Cell Voltage: 26.6
Cell Current 5.02
desired output: 70p
instant salinity: -400

Misc:
AL-0
R 1.59
T3

manual salinity check: (performed with test strips): somewhere between 3410 and 3700 (probably not as accurate as you want, but at least tells me it's way higher than the 400 being reported by the Aqua Rite).

 

[JamesW]

Does the current stay steady at 5 amps?

Does the High Salt light come on?

 

[JamesW]

Change the cell type to T-9 and redo the test.

 

[wbrisett]

Very interesting....
Set to T9 and rerun....

Pool temp: 90
Cell Voltage: 26.8
Cell Current 5.07
desired output: 70p
instant salinity: -3100

Misc:
AL-0
R 1.59
T9

I'm really confused now. If I understand things correctly the cell current is somewhat based on setting and salinity, yes? Why is it stuck at 5 amps?

 

[JamesW]

Based on the current, the salinity is still too high or the cell is bigger than a T-3.

You can run it like it is if you want.

Check the salinity 2 new and different ways to be extra sure that you know exactly what the salinity is.

 

[chlorinatorpro]

Can you show us a picture of your cell? Also when you are resetting the avg salt level, why are you moving the switch up to Superchlorinate BEFORE the numbers cycle. All you are doing is locking in that 500ppm number immediately.