Hayward Aqua Rite Just Smoldered & Fried

[Nealkaiser]

Hello! I was just cleaning my pool and went to check the SWG and saw the power off and smoke coming from it, yikes! My salt level is much too high currently (about 5000 ppm). Could that have anything to do with it?

Anyway, I've had a lot of issues over the years w/ my Hayward (2 PCB replacements, etc) and am wondering if there's a more reliable brand that would be easy enough to swap out w/o major work? My pool is around 32,000 gallons.

Thanks in advance!

 

[JamesW]

Anyway, I've had a lot of issues over the years w/ my Hayward (2 PCB replacements, etc)

Hayward is very reliable.

According to your other recent thread, you have a non Hayward circuit board, which I noted was of questionable quality.

Also, you have excessive salinity, which is causing excessive amperage.

It was pointed out that the salinity needed to be lowered.

So, it's not fair to suggest that Hayward is not reliable.

Buy a genuine Hayward circuit board if that's all you need.

Can’t calibrate Hayward Aqua Rite

Hello! My aqua rite hasn’t been working for a while (old cell) so I got a new one and am unable to calibrate the salt level. It errors with high salt/check cell and shows 4500 but it’s actually at 2700. I have found info online for calibrating but it doesn’t work. I go from off to auto (clicks...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Nealkaiser]

Yes, I was just referring to board replacements in the past which seem to be somewhat common. Those AquaCheck salt test strips are incredibly inaccurate it seems. Those told me I was at 2700. The better kit you guys recommended told me I was over 5,000. Crazy.

 

[JamesW]

The Hayward board usually only needs a new thermistor. Other than that, they rarely fail.

 

[Nealkaiser]

Thanks. I'm bummed I have to drain 45% of my 34,000 pool. I just spent a couple weeks and a lot of $$ getting the perfect water chemistry (other than the salt!).

Would it be acceptable to do this draining in parts. Meaning, let's say I drain 10% today. Re-fill. Give it 2 days to mix w/ the existing salt water. Test, then drain more as needed. That way at least the kids can continue to swim. Would this be reasonable?

 

[JamesW]

You can do continuous dilution by adding fresh water and removing pool water at the same time and the same rate until the salinity is down to where it should be.

 

[Nealkaiser]

Hello! I need to replace my existing Hayward Aqua Rite. I was just reviewing the existing wiring (not done by me) and question if it's entirely correct.
I have a filter timer and it seems the load from the timer goes to the filter pump and the heater. The Hayward Aqua Rite is wired directly to the box, thus bypassing the filter. Is this incorrect - as the SWG will still be on when the filter is off. I realize it will have No Flow and won't actually do anything, but not sure if this can damage things. It's been like this for several years. Wondering if I need to get an electrician to fix this.

Thanks.

 

[ajw22]

Your Aquarite should be connected to the LOAD side of your timer along with your pump. It is easy to move some wires if you want to post pics of the inside of your timer..

 

[Nealkaiser]

Thanks @ajw22. The timer I have is this one: https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/pool/intermatic-t104m201-mechanism-only/49723p1
There are two loads going out from it, one to the heater (gas powered) and one to the filter pump. The Aqua Rite is direct to the electrical panel.
I think I would have to get a new timer that can handle 3 loads? Or a new timer to add before the Aqua Rite and set it to the same schedule?

Also, seeing it has been set up this way for 5-6 years, what is the harm to leave it this way? Is it causing damage to the Aqua Rite?

Thanks in advance!

 

[ajw22]

Is the Aquarite and the pump running off the same circuit breaker?

What voltage is the Aquarite and pump?

Post pics of the internal wiring of the T104.

It is a safety issue. It can work fine forever unless your flow switch fails closed someday. In which case the hydrogen gas in the cell can explode.

Explosion near the SWG

We were watching TV and heard a major explosion after exploring in the backyard I went into my pool equipment should and found about a 16 in PVC pipe shredded 8in on one side 8in on the other side of where my SWG Is located. I have no Idea what to think. It appears the SWG somehow was not...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Nealkaiser]

Yikes! Hydrogen explosion does not sound fun. Here are some pictures to illustrate the setup. What do you suggest as the easiest fix? Again, many thanks @ajw22 !

 

[ajw22]

Remove the rubber guard your finger is lifting up in the timer to show the wire connections. Flip the breaker to the timer off before you expose the wires.

You can either move the Aquarite pier from its own breaker to connect to the pump timer or you can install a second timer for the Aquarite and keep the two timers in synch.

 

[Nealkaiser]

here is the timer. I can just add it to that available terminal? I wasn’t sure if it supported 3. Thanks.

 

[Nealkaiser]

I guess I’m full of problems this week! I just swapped out for the new system. When I first powered on I saw the green power light go on briefly. Then the no flow was blinking (delay after flow) and now I get no lights and only the LCD is showing. Here’s my setup. It was just swapping the power lines and a new cell. Do you see something wrong?

diagnostic shows 15volts when on.

Thanks.

 

[Nealkaiser]

I see my issue. Forgot to move jumpers.

 

[Nealkaiser]

Back in business! Here are my diagnostics while on:

3200
87
25.5
7.5
83p
-3600
Al-0
r1.59
T15

looks ok?

 

[ajw22]

here is the timer. I can just add it to that available terminal? I wasn’t sure if it supported 3. Thanks.

View attachment 147964

A timer can switch as many circuits as you need.

What is not good practice is putting more than two wires under a screw. So for 3 wires you want to connect a short pigtail wire to the LOAD terminal and then wire nut to the pigtail the 3 LOAD wire, much like the green grounds and white neutrals are wire nutted together.

To move the Aquarite power into the timer you move the black power wire and the white neutral and the green ground and connect them to the timer wiring.