Can’t calibrate Hayward Aqua Rite

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Nealkaiser

Active member
Jun 12, 2020
27
Lynn, MA
Hello! My aqua rite hasn’t been working for a while (old cell) so I got a new one and am unable to calibrate the salt level. It errors with high salt/check cell and shows 4500 but it’s actually at 2700. I have found info online for calibrating but it doesn’t work. I go from off to auto (clicks immediately) and then diagnostic 5 times. But it never counts down. I made sure it’s set for the right t-15 cell. One other strange thing is the firmware shows r015. But we replaced the pcb board in 2017. Here are a couple screenshots. Any idea what is wrong?
Thanks!
 

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Welcome to TFP.

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
 
Thanks!

Readings:

1. Auto to Off
4400
080
31.0
0.00
70p
-0000
AL-0
r015
t-15

2. Back to Auto
4400
080
21.1
8.32
70p
-6900
AL-0
r015
t-15

3. Off, 1 min wait, auto:
4400
080
21.3
8.52
70p
-6800
AL-0
r015
t-15

Serial of Aqua Rite Box: 3A13009

I don't have a serial of the cell, but it's an aftermarket one from Amazon:

Amazon.com: BLUE WORKS BLT15-Clear Cell Compatible with Hayward Goldline AquaRite | Cell Plates Made by USA Manufacturer | 2-Year Full Warranty: Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com: BLUE WORKS BLT15-Clear Cell Compatible with Hayward Goldline AquaRite | Cell Plates Made by USA Manufacturer | 2-Year Full Warranty: Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com

I used test strips for the salt test. This morning it was 2100. I did add more bags to get it up to the target 3400. I haven't yet tested but it should be around 3000ish.

Thanks.
 
You're over 8 amps. So, the salinity is probably way too high. The strips are wrong. You need a K-1766 salt test kit.

The cell and circuit board are not genuine Hayward, so the quality is questionable.

In any case, you need to lower the salinity.
 
I am not sure the salinity is that high. I started with fresh water this season and have been dumping bags slowly. It was showing high salt even when I was testing around 1200.

This is my first year doing maintenance myself. I did not realize an aftermarket pcb was in there. Maybe that explains the weird r015 firmware version?
Would the next step be to replace the pcb ?
 
The next step is to confirm the actual salinity.

You need a K-1766 or a calibrated meter.

Make sure that the salt that was added is well mixed by brushing the pool thoroughly several times.
 
I agree with James. Your mainboard is a non-OEM made by Lemonpool.
The sw r105 is indeed quite intriguing to me. I have no experience with aftermarket AQR pcb but try to reseat the display bd.
 
The Hayward shuts down at 8.0 amps.

I don't know what amp level this board uses.

The thermistor looks like it might be developing a crack. So, you should get a new thermistor to replace it.

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K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

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Nealkaiser said:
Thanks. I will get a better salt test kit. Interestingly, my chlorine levels seem to be OK. So i guess it is working. My CYA is 0. I don’t think that is related? Going to address that today.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
If you are curious if it is generating, right after you turn it on they usually start with a generation cycle. try taking a sample of water from the return with a tube and test it for Cl compared to a test from the pool itself.
 

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You can't recalibrate the Aquarite.

If it's working, the amps and instant salinity will be good.

The percentage setting determines how long the cell generates.

The cycle is 180 minutes. At 50%, it will generate for 90 minutes and then it will be off for 90 minutes. Then, a new cycle will begin.

During the off part of the cycle, the amps and instant salinity will be zero.

During the on part of the cycle, the amps and instant salinity should show a good reading.

The Generating light stays on the whole time even when it's not actually generating.
 
Last edited:
From what I can see your aftermarket board appears to be this one available from Inyo (and I sure others). If you review the manual for this board it appears that the recalibration instructions are different from what you did.
 
Resetting the average salinity doesn't make any difference in this case.

It's not "recalibrating", it's merely updating the average salinity to match the instant salinity.

What matters is if the cell is generating according to the percentage setting.

If it is, you're fine. If it's saying high salt, you need to reduce the salinity.

In any case, you need to get another good salinity test to be sure.
 
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