Hayward 2HP super pump issues

[Catanzaro]

Today, I decided to have everything set up and to turn the filter on to make sure everything is working properly. 8 return plugs out, 2 skimmer Gizzmo's out, MPV on filter, and gauge, sight glass, etc. all in. Took about 15 minutes because I have a simple cover.

Went to turn on the pump and there is a humming noise. Happened for 5-10 seconds and everything shut off. I could not turn the impeller by hand and even tried to use a 7/16" wrench to move back and forth. The NGM bottom plastic housing broke off (maybe be from overheating, as I am not sure).

The top capacitor is the following:

https://www.amazon.com/Capacitor-Round-volt-Z97F9602-97F9602/dp/B005DSSSYE


The back of the motor capacitor is the following:

610807-001 OEM Capacitor 124uF (610807001) - CSH Electric Motor Supply

Should I replace both and give this a shot. As I mentioned, the impellor will not turn in the pump basket freely, but will turn slightly in the back with a wrench, but I could not move even further.

- - - Updated - - -

 

[Jimrahbe]

C,

If you can't turn the motor over by hand, it will never start... The caps have nothing to do with the problem..

Let's see if we can get one of our motor experts to chime in.....

I suspect you will need to remove the whole motor end and figure out why the impeller is not turning by hand...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Catanzaro]

I suspect you will need to remove the whole motor end and figure out why the impeller is not turning by hand...

In the pump housing, the motor was not turning. Tried with fingers, but slightly difficult. In the back of the motor housing, like in this article:

Hayward Pool Pump Troubleshooting | InTheSwim Pool Blog

I was able to turn the motor slightly with a 7/16" wrench (only back and forth). The issue was that the wrench could not turn more than 15 degree's because of the housing. Moved pretty freely with wrench.

Update:

The breaker keeps tripping as well (something funky is going on)

 

[Jimrahbe]

Sorry, I misunderstood your original post... If it moves than a new cap is most likely the answer...

I am not sure if you need to replace them both or not...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Catanzaro]

I am not sure if you need to replace them both or not...

Already ordered them both and they will be here in 2-3 days at most. The cost is really not that bad and I will start with the back one first. No luck, then the top one. Spending $37 is a lot less expensive to start out with than $445 for a new pump. The good news is that if these do not work, I will just replace the whole pump. There are unions in front and up top (something the pool co. did right as I asked for them). Wiring will be easy.

 

[Catanzaro]

I wanted to provide an update. I changed the black capacitor (Believe this is the start) and fired it up. No luck. I said maybe the pump is shot. Then I changed the top capacitor (I believe this is the run capacitor) and the pump fired up. Although, the pump now makes a loud whining noise? Any ideas on what it could be. Is it possible the run capacitor is bad, or is it something else? I double checked the specs on both (while not the same brand), they are of the same. Thanks! specifications.

 

[Catanzaro]

A quick update. The motor assembly took forever to take apart. The front bearing is shot and the one terminal screw is impossible to remove. Almost everything is showing signs of corrosion, including the shaft, which caused removing some screws extremely difficult. However, the rear shaft was not damaged. A new motor and housing is on the way and will be arriving on Wednesday. I did not wish to be bothered with just the motor.

Question: Is it advisable every two years to change the shaft seal? Seems like a pretty easy task. In addition, should anything else be changed. For now, I believe that the next few years will be maintenance free, but what a learning experience.