Harvey free fill up

Aug 22, 2017
12
The woodlands tx
Hate to make light of the storm but it certainly is a $$ saver when i need to refill my pool to get the CYA levels under control. Love the site and the information that I have been able to find. Our pool is less than a year old and yet I have already run into the CYA issue with chlorine pucks and not getting the right guidance from my local pool store.

Ordered a good test kit and received it on Friday. CYA was well over 200, drained about 1/3 of the pool and got it to 180. Draining now almost 1/2 so hoping to drive this number down much further. Spiked with chlorine (bleach) early in the day and let circulate.

Raining non stop so hoping to have it back up to level within a day or two.....if I don't post tomorrow I might not be home! But we should be ok as we are in north Houston. Water was a little cloudy and algae was beginning to bloom.
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!

With 4 feet of rain expected in some areas, that could nearly replace all the water in most pools with CYA and CH free water ... although if you get a lot of runoff and dirt, that will still be a mess to clean up.
 
Didn't think of the ground water potential issue, but flooding in our area is easily 7 to 8 ft below us...but fortunately with the rain rates of ~1" per hour and supplemented with hoses, it filled rather quickly.

Latest test results :

FC - 11.2
PH - 8.0
TA - 140
CH - 150
CYA - 85 ish

Added some acid using the calculator. Currently using the K-2006C Taylor kit. Very light rain all day today and added 4 bottles of chlorine yesterday before the refill to shock. Water looks clear, just need to get all the debris out (not much). Will continue to monitor the rest of the week. All pucks removed from the system and hoping to drive the CYA further down with time considering that I started with what I think was well over 200.

Appreciate the site, gave me more confidence to manage the pool myself. Thanks for the welcomes! Sun starting to break through here and the nightmare of Harvey is winding down north of Houston.
 
Should i worry about the Calcium? Pebble tech. Ive seen some posts that indicate that it is not that big of a concern. I also don't 100% trust the test results since we have had so much rain. I have been running the pool at least 12 hours a day since the rain started.
 
Should i worry about the Calcium? Pebble tech. Ive seen some posts that indicate that it is not that big of a concern. I also don't 100% trust the test results since we have had so much rain. I have been running the pool at least 12 hours a day since the rain started.

Welcome to TFP, dealland. You can definitely manage your pool water yourself and will be glad you do. No more worries over algae blooms when you follow TFP's method of water management.

I'm going to give some instructions you may not know since you are new to posting. (you could have been reading for a year and know more than I can tell)

If you have time, give us your pool info in your signature section.
1. Click on "Settings" at the top right of the page under the "Pool School" button.
2. Look on the left side of the new page and find "My Settings"
3. "Edit Signature" will be just under that
4. Use my signature info or some other members' to see what to add to your signature. This is very essential to help us help you.

Let me know if you have questions. You can post here or send me a Private Message (which will send a notification ping to my phone). Just click on my user name to the left of this post. Then click on Private Message.

On the 27th, you stated that: "Water was a little cloudy and algae was beginning to bloom." What is the state of your water now? Do you see any algae? If yes, then you need to do a SLAM (Shock Level and Maintain). Read here for directions before you buy anything:
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

Follow the SLAM directions to the letter. If your pool isn't all green, it shouldn't take too long to complete the SLAM as long as you stay on top of it.

IF you don't see any algae then follow these steps:
1. Do you have the TF-100 kit? It's the better kit to use.
2. FC and CC: First test for your Free Chlorine (FC) level following the directions on the laminated card which came with your TF-100 kit. The "Chlorine Drop Test" #'s 1-3. Record the level #. Even though you just tested yesterday, test again today.
3. Continue under #3, to test Combined Chloramines (CC) follow directions for #'s 4 and 5.
4. Important re CC results: the CC level should be 0.5 or 0, if it is "1" or higher, then you need to SLAM (go back up for the info I gave above). This is even if the water looks good. Clear water is not fulproof.

IF your CC results are 0.5 or 0, AND your water looks good (not greenish), then go to the steps below.

The steps below are for a chlorine/bleach pool.

SWG system: If you do have a swg system, I would only have it on IF you know the salt level in the water is at an acceptable level. You should be able to get that reading from your automation device. If the salt level is too low (which mine was way low because of all the rain), then turn off the cell, and we'll get it up and going after the other chemicals are in good order.

Your results you posted yesterday, the 28th.

FC - 11.2
PH - 8.0
TA - 140
CH - 150
CYA - 85 ish


1. Water level: make sure the water level is half way up the skimmers.
2. Pump: Turn on the main pump once the water level is good for the skimmers.
3. Testing for chems: You already tested today for the FC and CC, so you have those results. Add chlorine bleach as needed according to Pool Math. I would target 7 or 8 for the FC at this point.
4. pH: Yesterday's test shows a level of 8.0. But.... with an FC level over 10, the pH test result could be inaccurate. Test the pH again AFTER your chlorine level goes back down below 10.
5. TA: Your TA is too high, so follow the directions using PoolMath. Set a target of 70 - that will work for a bleach pool or a swg system.
6. CYA: 85 ish is ok. Leave it alone. Once I know if you have an swg system or not, we can decide what to do then.
7. CH: Your CH is low for either type of pool (bleach only or swg system). Go ahead and use a target of 350 since that works for the ranges of either pool.
8. SWG: Once I know if you have a salt system, we can make sure that's up and working. Until, then keep testing for the FC and add bleach as needed per the Pool Math.
9. I'll probably test my pool 2-3 times a week just now after Harvey until I'm confident the chem levels are stable and adjusted to my pool's usual happy levels before Harvey intruded.

For me, I'm moving slowly these days, so these steps may take me a few days and will also depend on supplies available in the stores. Use Amazon, if the stores are still closed or out of stock nearby. The FC and the pH are my first concerns.

Have you read Pool School? Since I don't know, I'm going to send you some links that may help you begin managing your water using the TFP method. No more pucks! (well unless you go on an extended vacation).

Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Pool School - PoolMath

If you haven't read any of this before, it can be overwhelming. I'm old school, so I like to print out the information, especially the two charts from the above links. But I promise it gets easier and easier very quickly once you start doing it. I'm an old woman, and not the brightest penny in the pot, so if I can do it (last 2 years, not a single smidgen of algae), then You will find it even easier than I did.

I'm going to PM you with my contact information in case you have some questions needing answers quickly.

All the best,
Suz
 
Thanks Suz! Yes, I have gotten up to speed on pool school and all of the other great resources on the site and the pool app as well.

CC results from yesterday was 0, and water looks clear. Just dirt and debris, already cleaned the vac a couple of times. I hit it with Acid yesterday to get the ph down. Will check again today to address the TA and CH. The CYA was off the charts before the storm and was the primary reason for taking the action that I did to replace water. No more pucks in the chorlinator and will monitor daily for a while til i get comfortable with the testing. I plan to test today, and have the pool store run their tests to see how they compare.

Thanks for the note and quick reply.
 

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Don't waste you time having them test your water. Believe your numbers. If you think something is wrong or have questions ask, we are all here to help.

I agree 100% with AftonJeeper. A matching result with the pool store doesn't necessarily mean your testing is correct. The opposite is also true. The pool stores may be swamped and in a hurry to serve everyone making accuracy even more questionable. As AftonJeeper said, believe your numbers.

It sounds like you're doing a great job! If you haven't already, print out the two charts from the links above (Recommended Levels and Chlorine/CYA Chart). You'll want to keep those handy to make sure you're keeping your chems in range. Be sure to use the chart sections for a bleach pool or non-swg pool.

Their both important charts, but some people new to this method don't pay close enough attention to that Chlorine/CYA relationship.

Take care,
Suz
 
Things are looking good, Kevin. Watch the pH. Don't let it get too low (about 7.2). Bring the pH back up with aeration using your water features. Being a new pool, the pH will want to go up on its own anyway. If the TA is still high (probably will be), keep repeating that process (adding MA to bring pH down to 7.2, aerate to bring pH back up to about 7.8) until the TA gets down to recommended levels.

Since it is a new pool, you may not need to aerate much. Each pool is different, but pH usually wants to push up fairly quickly on its own.

Here in my area, it was cloudy all day. As the sun comes out to stay, you're going to want to keep an eye on the CYA. You want to protect your chlorine and keep that chlorine/CYA ratio.

I know you're happy to finally get that CYA down (thank you, Harvey), but you may need to add some CYA. Check the chart for your plaster/chlorine (bleach) pool. Using Pool Math, undershoot the CYA target. Wait 4-5 days, retest, add more CYA if needed.

Unlike when using the pucks, YOU will be in charge of the CYA now. It won't get away from you as long as you test and follow pool math.

Send any questions you may have. You're doing really good.

Suz
 
Ok, been managing the pool on my own since Harvey came to visit....

FC - 4.3 - driving to 7
PH - 7.8 - driving to 7.2
TA - 100
CH - 210
CYA - 60

So, I have brushed and vacuumed but am seeing what appears to be brownish stuff on the walls, not bad but think it might be algae. Time to slam??

Otherwise pool looks clear and good.
 
Should i worry about the Calcium? Pebble tech. Ive seen some posts that indicate that it is not that big of a concern. I also don't 100% trust the test results since we have had so much rain. I have been running the pool at least 12 hours a day since the rain started.

Didn't see a response to this question. Yes, you do need to watch your CH. With a plaster type pool, if your CH gets too low, You have to worry about the water pulling calcium out of the plaster and damaging it. However in all pools, if your CH gets too high and you don't manage your CSI, you can have scaling build up on your walls.
 
I'm not sure that i trust the pressure gage but it has not moved since the last cleaning. I'm not sure that I trust the pressure gage and plan to purchase something with a much narrower range. I might try to flush some from the top of the filter to see if i get a different reading afterwards.

- - - Updated - - -

Btw, thanks for the response. I also wanted to note that the water coming over the edge from the spa looks normal. Suction at the skimmers is also strong.
 

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