H400idl2 not firing up
- Thread starter Seanboy
- Start date
Do the h400idl2 heaters always have this sensor? Any ideas?
Also do you reccomend at this time that I change out the vent pressure switch or the blower vacuum switch.
I was also going to try and jump them to see what happens but wasn't sure of the correct jumper placement.
Also do you reccomend at this time that I change out the vent pressure switch or the blower vacuum switch.
I was also going to try and jump them to see what happens but wasn't sure of the correct jumper placement.
The sequence of action is that the unit should turn on the blower and then it triggers the air flow sensor. You are saying the blow never turns on so that would present the AO error. I am not so sure you have air flow switch issue.
Not sure why your system doesn't have the interrupt switch unless someone took it out. I've not run across one of these units that didn't have one. If you look at the wiring diagram in the manual you can see where it is wired into. Of course not having one I would make sure that all the wires are connected correctly.
When is the last time this unit worked?
Not sure why your system doesn't have the interrupt switch unless someone took it out. I've not run across one of these units that didn't have one. If you look at the wiring diagram in the manual you can see where it is wired into. Of course not having one I would make sure that all the wires are connected correctly.
When is the last time this unit worked?
Last time I used it was last fall. I've been in the house for 5 years and it was installed a couple years prior. I've never had any issues or work done too it in the past.
I decided to come fire it up a couple weeks ago. The wife just had a baby and thought she would appreciate it, but no luck.
I decided to come fire it up a couple weeks ago. The wife just had a baby and thought she would appreciate it, but no luck.
Ok, so after doing some testing with my brother in law, we found that the capacitor seems to be bad on the blower. We can manually start it which gets it blowing, but it never quite hits that jet engine RPM i've heard before. It will run for a minute but the system never ignites although I hear the clicking and eventually gives the AO code again. I have the Jakel 9.0MFD cap which doesnt seem to be sold anywhere. I wonder if the 7.5MFD capacitor would work, or if I have to get a a whole new blower, which would be a bummer.
Is the capacitor what kicks the blower into high gear? Also, is this the reason the heater still doesnt ignite?
Thanks again for the continued help.
Is the capacitor what kicks the blower into high gear? Also, is this the reason the heater still doesnt ignite?
Thanks again for the continued help.
The capacitor is what gets the motor spinning to a certain RPM and thus then allows the air switch to then sense the air flow. It would be hard to find a whole new blower for that unit. Parts for that unit are scarce. You should be able to find a 9MFD capacitor. It doesn't have to be the same brand. You could go to a 10 if you really had to.
Do you happen to have an online source for the capacitor? I haven't been able to locate one.
Thanks
Thanks
Quick update. I replaced the micro switch on the blower vacuum switch, but no go.
If I manually spin the blower it will start blowing, then manually activate the blower vacuum switch as well, then I am able to start the call for heat and I can see it attempt to ignite through the peek hole but it will go out and eventually give me another AO or AC code.
Thoughts?
If I manually spin the blower it will start blowing, then manually activate the blower vacuum switch as well, then I am able to start the call for heat and I can see it attempt to ignite through the peek hole but it will go out and eventually give me another AO or AC code.
Thoughts?
And heres one more quick question to rule it out. When the heater is turned off, should the blower vacuum switch be pushed in or out? I noticed my blower vacuum switch is not depressed by default but the vent pressure switch is always pressed in.
Your blower motor is not spinning at a high enough RPM to make the air switch work correctly. That is why if you manually spin it it will be enough to get the system going but not spinning good enough to keep the air flow going. Get a 10MFD capacitor and put it on the motor if you can't find a 9MFD.
ps0303 - I'm not sure about this one in particular, but don't some blower motors have both a start and a run cap? Could this one be one of those that are both in one?
is it best to jumper all the safety checks at once and just remove them one by one to determine the faulty component? There are four correct?
On the ones I have worked on for this model heater, I've only see one capacitor which is the start/run capacitor.
Ok, so here goes.
I replaced the cap and although the blower seemed to spin right up and at a faster pace than previously, I still got the AO code. I anticipated this though so I also installed a new blower switch. This seemed to do the trick because it fired up on its own for the first time without me blowing/suctioning on the tube.
The only problem is after 30 seconds after the heat light turns on (also get a nice bright orange from the peekhole) the heat turns off. But.. it will re-ignite again right after and 30 seconds it will lose heat again. So I get good heat from the peek hole and the green heat light on the control panel is on for those 30 seconds, but it stays in this loop with no error code. I let it go about 10 times in a row. Heat for 30 seconds then off and re-ignition then another 30 seconds.
What do you make of this one? I'm so close, I can almost taste it. Haha
I replaced the cap and although the blower seemed to spin right up and at a faster pace than previously, I still got the AO code. I anticipated this though so I also installed a new blower switch. This seemed to do the trick because it fired up on its own for the first time without me blowing/suctioning on the tube.
The only problem is after 30 seconds after the heat light turns on (also get a nice bright orange from the peekhole) the heat turns off. But.. it will re-ignite again right after and 30 seconds it will lose heat again. So I get good heat from the peek hole and the green heat light on the control panel is on for those 30 seconds, but it stays in this loop with no error code. I let it go about 10 times in a row. Heat for 30 seconds then off and re-ignition then another 30 seconds.
What do you make of this one? I'm so close, I can almost taste it. Haha