Gulf Stream heat pump

P15: having a hard time understanding valve 4.
p27: configurations
heater 1 — enabled
name— heat pump
cooldown—disabled
heater1 extend—disabled
heater 2— disabled
 
2:30 update
heater fan OFF , countdown started, 120. Reverts back to 120 in the mid 80’s . This is continuous.
 
2:30 update
heater fan OFF , countdown started, 120. Reverts back to 120 in the mid 80’s . This is continuous.

Have you called Gulfstream and asked them about this countdown behavior?

I posted above what the manual says that it should countdown to 0 as a 2 minute pause.
 
Gulfstream 2 times told me that they sent work orders for someone to come out to look at the heater. after waiting for their call 2 weeks each time I called them and they said they do not service my area. The company pinchapenny pool who sold the unit no longer takes my calls. I was patient the first month when gulfstream told me that 17 of their 18 employees ha COVID . I guess what I am really needing to know is this an automation (my problem) or the heater (their problem) before I proceed.
 
The countdown is a heater problem.

The Lockout is likely an installation problem with the HP but we do not understand the root cause yet.
 
2:30 update
heater fan OFF , countdown started, 120. Reverts back to 120 in the mid 80’s . This is continuous.
Is this with the pump on or off?

Also, can you see a thermostat wire going from the heater to the Aqualogic?
 
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Yes I can see it.
yes the pump is running.

pool was heating ok today after I reset the lockout. Switched over to spa and the heater has gone back to repeat countdown mode, stops at 87 reverts back to 120. This goes on until I power off the heater.
 
You need an AC person to check the refrigerant pressures in the unit.
 

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You need an AC person to check the refrigerant pressures in the unit.
I had the manufacturer out, finally, ththey went over the unit and stated it works as designed. looks like the issue is with my automation. Is there any way that the mother board on the aqua logic can be troubleshooted?
 
Did they disconnect the HP from the automation and have it operate normally from the HP control panel?
 
He states, “ basically, when the low-voltage wire coming from automation to my heat pump is disconnected, the heat pump works as designed.”” When
l reconnect it, it starts to make the countdown skip and restart repeatedly.”
 
Just to confirm, the thermostat wire is connected to the port on the HP labeled as Pool/Spa T-Stat and on the Aqualogic to the Heater 1 control line. Also, you need to put the HP in automation mode:

Sub-Menu Access
To access the programming sub-menu (remote t-stat, solar, heat/cool, calibration, load defaults etc) press and hold the up arrow and down arrow at the same time until the board displays ”remote t-stat”. Use the MODE button to scroll through the options and use the arrows to change settings. If there are issues with the operation of the board, we suggest that you “Load Defaults” to return to factory settings.

Pool Spa Automation (Remote Controls)
Attach the low voltage lines to the heater control board at the terminals marked “Water Temp Sensor” (See diagram FS1 below). Access the submenu by holding the UP Arrow and Down Arrow at the same time until the board reads “Remote Thermostat Disabled”. Press the UP Arrow so that the display reads “Enabled”. If left alone, the board will return to the main menu and your remote system is now in control of your heat pump. We are unable to assist with programming of your remote systems.

That should just be a dry contact that is either open or closed. One way to test it without automation is to remove the thermostat wire then manually open and close the circuit. If it does not work, the HP is not working as advertised as that should be a thermostat connection.
 
I am about to check this out. I am unclear as to how to manually open and close the circuit.
 
I am about to check this out. I am unclear as to how to manually open and close the circuit.
Also from the tech, “ I thought that maybe this would be an issue with our circuit board so I did replace it. I also replaced the basil on the front so you had better action on your buttons now. Even after replacing the board, the condition still exists. The board is the only component if it were defective to cause this issue. However, by running the heat pump standalone with no connection to automation, the heat pump works as designed. That indicates to me that the board is not defective.”
 
What I see.
 

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Assuming the bottom tan wire goes to the HP, then that is correct. What about the HP pump side? Where does that tan wire terminate?

Also, did you check the HP menu to see if it is setup correctly?
 
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