Deep south saltwater pool. Random winter weather swings. Do you run your saltwater generator all winter? If so, lower chlorine output? I have a 20x40 pool and a variable speed pump that I typically leave running 24x7. Wondering if I should drop the output, drop the run time or both? Supplement with pucks or liquid during winter in order to prolong cell life? I never cover my pool, always keep it open year around. This spring I plan to SLAM it as soon as the water temp hits the 60's consistently as I ALWAYS get a spring algae bloom (late Feb/early March) no matter what.
Gulf Coast "winters" with saltwater pool
- Thread starter aralph
- Start date
Ralph,
If you get algae, at any time, you are just not doing it right. If you constantly keep your FC and CYA in the proper relationship, you will never get algae. I have three saltwater pools that in total are over 25 years old. I have never once gotten algae. It is one reason that I don't answer many SLAM questions, as I have zero SLAM experience.
Keep in mind that most salt cells shut off when the water temp gets down below 52 degrees. Not sure what your normal low water temperature would be, but in the DFW area it means that my SWCG shuts off about the first of Dec..
You should keep the same target FC in the winter as you do in the summer. The difference is that it will take very little additional Chlorine to keep it at the target level in the winter.
My guess is that you are trying to run at the lowest FC possible. I also assume that you are trying to keep your FC in between the very minimum and your target FC per the saltwater section of this chart. FC/CYA Levels
I suggest that you make sure to keep your FC at your target, or slightly higher. Running a little hot on your FC just has no downside. Running too low, on the other hand, will just make it easy to get algae.
Thanks,
Jim R.
If you get algae, at any time, you are just not doing it right. If you constantly keep your FC and CYA in the proper relationship, you will never get algae. I have three saltwater pools that in total are over 25 years old. I have never once gotten algae. It is one reason that I don't answer many SLAM questions, as I have zero SLAM experience.
Keep in mind that most salt cells shut off when the water temp gets down below 52 degrees. Not sure what your normal low water temperature would be, but in the DFW area it means that my SWCG shuts off about the first of Dec..
You should keep the same target FC in the winter as you do in the summer. The difference is that it will take very little additional Chlorine to keep it at the target level in the winter.
My guess is that you are trying to run at the lowest FC possible. I also assume that you are trying to keep your FC in between the very minimum and your target FC per the saltwater section of this chart. FC/CYA Levels
I suggest that you make sure to keep your FC at your target, or slightly higher. Running a little hot on your FC just has no downside. Running too low, on the other hand, will just make it easy to get algae.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Poolnerdgrandma
Gold Supporter
- Sep 15, 2018
- 941
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
If you dial up the chlorine output as the weather warms up and days get longer, testing frequently to make sure your FC is in the correct range, you won't have to SLAM. Springtime can take me by surprise, depending on how busy life is, and I sometimes have a situation where the SWCG isn't "keeping up." I've learned that I can add LC to get it up to the high side of the range (or a little higher) and then dial in run-times and percentages, without having to do a full SLAM. Right now I'm dropping the output and the runtime to keep the chemistry in range.
We keep a solar cover on the pool and spa in the fall and spring, and the pool has never gotten so cold that the SWCG doesn't generate. YMMV
Just one item to add plus agree with what was noted by others.
In winter you should still be testing your water. Maybe every 3-5 day rather than daily but you need to stay on top of it because you still have exposure to UV. Also, you should continue to follow the FC/CYA Levels. I turn off my SWCG by setting it to zero percent. I use LC rather than pucks. Stay in upper part of range for your CYA level and you will not have algae in the spring.
In winter you should still be testing your water. Maybe every 3-5 day rather than daily but you need to stay on top of it because you still have exposure to UV. Also, you should continue to follow the FC/CYA Levels. I turn off my SWCG by setting it to zero percent. I use LC rather than pucks. Stay in upper part of range for your CYA level and you will not have algae in the spring.