Greetings - new to pool maintenance-sincerely appreciate all your advice

Denise O

Gold Supporter
Jul 29, 2021
21
Sonoma, CA
Hello to the TFP community,
I took over my pool maintenance having recently retired and am willing to put in the time to keep my pool looking beautiful. I've had pool service for 20 years and he sure made it look easy....the 5-6 minute weekly visit included dropping in a cup of premeasured chlorine granules, emptying the skimmer basket and using the Polaris 280 hose to wash down the deck. Water testing was just dropping chlorine and PH drops directly into the pool. Now that I've done some research, I wonder how my pool only had two bouts of algae in the past ten years. I don't have any trees or plants that drop organic material into the pool and the Polaris does a great job daily.

The pool is more of an expensive yard decoration that adds tranquility-we rarely use it for swimming. (It came with the house 23 years ago and we completely remodeled/updated it in 2008.)

I'm fortunate that I found TFP and learned how water testing at Pool Companies varies and I don't need all the things they try to sell. I just received my new Taylor K-2006C kit so I can test for more than just Chlorine, PH and Acid demand. Thanks for reading my long winded post. I sincerely appreciate all your invaluable information.

Denise
20K gal, Pebbletec, A.O. Smith Corp. pump (not sure on HP), Pentair Cartridge filter, AquaRite SWGz (not currently in use), Polaris 280 sweep, Taylor K2006C Test Kit
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Keep the link below handy. Lots of good reference material there. Enjoy. :swim:

 
  • Like
Reactions: Denise O
Just to see where you are--and where the pool service left you--how about running all the tests from your Taylor2006 and post them here. Someone will almost certainly respond with suggestions. And welcome to TFP.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Denise O
Just to see where you are--and where the pool service left you--how about running all the tests from your Taylor2006 and post them here. Someone will almost certainly respond with suggestions. And welcome to TFP.
I used my new Taylor Kit to run all the tests and here are the results. I welcome your suggestions. My CYA has been high since I started taking care of the pool. My pool service was using only chlorine granules and tabs and not testing my water properly. (Does dropping FC and PH drops directly into the pool count at proper testing??!!) We're on mandatory water rationing and I can't drain the pool so I've switched to liquid chlorine to not add to the CYA problem. I tried lowering the pool water level a bit by using pool water to hose down my entire flagstone deck and wash away the ash from the recent Nor Cal fires but the CYA hasn't gone down.... On a happy note, my water is crystal clear and there isn't any sign of algae. I had a little algae growing in the corner of the steps a month ago and I shocked the pool with 2 gallons of liquid chlorine (12%).
PH - 7.8-8.0 - I just added 20 oz of dry acid and was planning to add 28 oz more when my shipment arrives later today. Sound ok?
FC - 3.2
CC - 0
CYA - 140 (using the test with 1/2 tap water and 1/2 pool water
TA - 120-130
CH - 370

Suggestions welcome - my pool water temperature is 72 degrees. The nights are in the low 50s but days in the mid 90's. Thanks very much for your time.
 
Nice to see YOUR test results. :goodjob: Well, since you are "stuck" with the no drain situation, you'll want to increase the FC for sure. You'll be plenty safe increasing the FC to 10. You really need a higher FC level based on that CYA, but an FC over 10 will skew your pH readings making it difficult to manage that portion of chemistry. You're lucky to not have an algae bloom yet. But the sooner you can exchange the water to lower the CYA the better. That would be priority one as soon as you can.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Denise O
Nice to see YOUR test results. :goodjob: Well, since you are "stuck" with the no drain situation, you'll want to increase the FC for sure. You'll be plenty safe increasing the FC to 10. You really need a higher FC level based on that CYA, but an FC over 10 will skew your pH readings making it difficult to manage that portion of chemistry. You're lucky to not have an algae bloom yet. But the sooner you can exchange the water to lower the CYA the better. That would be priority one as soon as you can.
Thank you for your reply. I'll raise the FC right away. I already seem to have a problem with the PH. I can get it down to 7.6 but it's back up to 8.0 in no time. I'm using a lot of Dry Acid - I'm shy to try liquid Muratic Acid.... Will the Dry Acid skew things also? What PH would you find acceptable to maintain?
 
Using dry acid over a long period of time tends to increase sulfate levels which can be problematic. Muriatic acid is really best. It is powerful, so you have to be mindful of spilling and wind direction (fumes), but it's the best. If you struggle with the 31% full strength, you can always get the low-fume 14.5% strength.

As long as you keep the pH in that upper 7 range, all should be fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Denise O
Using dry acid over a long period of time tends to increase sulfate levels which can be problematic. Muriatic acid is really best. It is powerful, so you have to be mindful of spilling and wind direction (fumes), but it's the best. If you struggle with the 31% full strength, you can always get the low-fume 14.5% strength.

As long as you keep the pH in that upper 7 range, all should be fine.
I returned the Dry Acid and bought some Muriatic acid 31%. I've been reading that FC above 10 can skew the PH readings....is there a way to test to make sure I don't add too much MA? Or should I ask how close to FC - 10 to I have to be to get an accurate reading. Sorry for all the questions, I do appreciate your advice Texas Splash.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Texas Splash
I returned the Dry Acid and bought some Muriatic acid 31%. I've been reading that FC above 10 can skew the PH readings....is there a way to test to make sure I don't add too much MA? Or should I ask how close to FC - 10 to I have to be to get an accurate reading. Sorry for all the questions, I do appreciate your advice Texas Splash.
I did a search through the forums and think I found the answers.....because my CYA is high, even if my FC is 10-14, as long as I read the PH right away before it is skewed to going purple (or something like that-lots of info to digest here) I should get a relatively accurate reading..... Did I mention I can't wait for winter...LOL
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Texas Splash

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support