Green Tint Deep End after opening

[beersy]

I have clear water, I can see the deep end drains clearly and almost read a newpaper that flew in the other day on the bottom of the deep end, but there is a green hue to the water in the deep end only (picture attached it was windy). Reading a bunch of the threads and I guess I am stuck for some advise.

Opened the pool on 4/8. Took the cover off and was delighted to find a very dark black pool (picture attached). Levels at opening
FC 0
CC 0
PH 7
TA 120
CH 100
CYA 50

Raised FC to 20 with liquid chlorine for SLAM and have been doing so ever since. Brushed 2 times and have run the robotic cleaner probably 24 hours total. New Pleatco PCC80 filters. The robot is only picking up leaves and fine sand - no more sludge. I have used about 13 gallons of LC. As of 4/13 - CC have remained at .5 or below. I've done OCLT 3 times - 2 less than 1 the other was 1.5. Current reading are
FC 14.5
CC .5
PH 7.8
TA 140
CH 75
CYA 45

I have also placed 8 oz of clarifier in hoping it was fine particles. I read it might be due to the high FC levels, might be metals, might still be algae. I was thinking to lower FC to regular levels, balance TA to get that between 60-80, then see where I am at? Thoughts?

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Good job on using a TF-100 to post accurate test results. Let's look at a few things:
- We need to determine if you have algae, metals (iron/copper), or both.
- Is your water from a well?
- Have you used pool store copper-based algaecides in the past?
- How do you normally chlorinate the pool?
- Do you see staining or discoloration anywhere in/on the pool surfaces?
- You mentioned a clarifier. Typically something we don't recommend, but it's in. Your filter probably doesn't have the ability to run on recirculate, like sand or DE with a multiport valve, so can we assume the clarifier is mixed-in with the cartridge filters?
- Have you been following the SLAM Process page to the letter? No cheating? ? Your FC should still be at 20 if you are in SLAM mode.

Let's start there and follow-up once you reply.

 

[beersy]

Welcome to TFP! Good job on using a TF-100 to post accurate test results. Let's look at a few things:
- We need to determine if you have algae, metals (iron/copper), or both.
- Is your water from a well?
- Have you used pool store copper-based algaecides in the past?
- How do you normally chlorinate the pool?
- Do you see staining or discoloration anywhere in/on the pool surfaces?
- You mentioned a clarifier. Typically something we don't recommend, but it's in. Your filter probably doesn't have the ability to run on recirculate, like sand or DE with a multiport valve, so can we assume the clarifier is mixed-in with the cartridge filters?
- Have you been following the SLAM Process page to the letter? No cheating? ? Your FC should still be at 20 if you are in SLAM mode.

Let's start there and follow-up once you reply.

Thanks for the response. Pool was built 8/2018 filled with municipal water and closed by the pool company. Opened and closed in 2019 by them as well. I think they use an algaecide, shock and that same clarifier when they open and some phosphate chemical. I finally decided to do it all myself this year - so getting away from their chemistry experiment with my pool.

I normally chlorinate the pool with the SWG, but pool water is 52 degrees so doing LC now. I do not see staining anywhere on the pool deck or the pool liner - although the liner is deep blue so it may be hiding something. I would assume the clarifier is mixed in as well since I don't have a multiport valve.

I haven't been cheating, measuring and adding LC twice a day every day except yesterday when I stopped. On 4/22 at 10:35am FC was 20 with CC 0. I haven't added chlorine in the last 28 hours. I read a post that high FC may show some green tint in the forums so I thought it might be best to return to normal levels and lower TA and PH and then see. I can return to SLAM levels, but for 10 days it hasn't seemed to get better.

 

[Texas Splash]

The green tint with high chlorine was probably related to a discussion about iron in the water. That' why I asked about a well. Even pools on city water can sometimes accumulate iron, but then we also see signs of orange, brown, etc in various areas. That fact that your water has a distinct variation of contrast between the shallow and deep ends has me going back to the clarifier issue. I have a strong feeling that it may have already coated your carts in the filter. You may want to take a close look. See if they have a sticky, gummy appearance or coating. I'm not sure if a TSP detergent soaking will remove it. Don't use acid. On top of that, I suspect there is still remaining clarifier product in the water, so it will go right back to the clean (or new) filter media. Pools like your and mine without a method to bypass the filter are a big reason we try to avoid floc and clarifier. But I would take a look at the filters and continue with the SLAM. The FC may need more time to break-down that product.

 

[beersy]

The green tint with high chlorine was probably related to a discussion about iron in the water. That' why I asked about a well. Even pools on city water can sometimes accumulate iron, but then we also see signs of orange, brown, etc in various areas. That fact that your water has a distinct variation of contrast between the shallow and deep ends has me going back to the clarifier issue. I have a strong feeling that it may have already coated your carts in the filter. You may want to take a close look. See if they have a sticky, gummy appearance or coating. I'm not sure if a TSP detergent soaking will remove it. Don't use acid. On top of that, I suspect there is still remaining clarifier product in the water, so it will go right back to the clean (or new) filter media. Pools like your and mine without a method to bypass the filter are a big reason we try to avoid floc and clarifier. But I would take a look at the filters and continue with the SLAM. The FC may need more time to break-down that product.

Thank you, I will continue to SLAM and bring the numbers back up tonight when I get home. I should note that I added the clarifier on 4/16 and put the new filters in on 4/15. I will look at the filters as well. Now the question is, how do I get it out of the pool so I don't ruin my second set of brand new filters....

Thanks for the help.

 

[Texas Splash]

how do I get it out of the pool so I don't ruin my second set of brand new filters....

That is the million dollar question. At this point, short of exchanging water, I think you just have to give the chlorine time to break it down. Hopefully it wasn't enough to cause a long-lasting mess. But be patient. Let the chlorine do it's work. Don't try to rush it by over-shooting the SLAM FC level of 20. I'll be curious to see how the deep end looks in the next 24-48 hours.

 

[beersy]

That is the million dollar question. At this point, short of exchanging water, I think you just have to give the chlorine time to break it down. Hopefully it wasn't enough to cause a long-lasting mess. But be patient. Let the chlorine do it's work. Don't try to rush it by over-shooting the SLAM FC level of 20. I'll be curious to see how the deep end looks in the next 24-48 hours.

What TSP product do you recommend for cleaning the filter? I am hoping it didn't happen, pool pressure was 24 when I put the new filters in and its still at that level low - so I guess they can't be clogged to much.

 

[Texas Splash]

TSP (trisodium phosphate) is generally found at your local hardware store (paint section perhaps). Be careful to avoid TSP cleaners claiming to be phosphate-free, and don’t buy the “alternative” eco-friendly TSP which is not TSP at all. . If you can't find TSP, an alternative is automatic dish washer detergent. Typically you use one cup of TSP/detergent in a garbage pail of water and allow to soak overnight, then rinse off.

 

[ajw22]

TSP (trisodium phosphate) is generally found at your local hardware store (paint section perhaps). Be careful to avoid TSP cleaners claiming to be phosphate-free, and don’t buy the “alternative” eco-friendly TSP which is not TSP at all. . If you can't find TSP, an alternative is automatic dish washer detergent. Typically you use one cup of TSP/detergent in a garbage pail of water and allow to soak overnight, then rinse off.

From Cartridge Filter Use and Care - Further Reading

A note on dishwasher detergent chemistry - automatic dishwasher detergent hasn't contained TSP (trisodium phosphate) since the 1970's. The EPA all but banned the use of phosphate-based cleaning formulations as they were, unnecessarily, branded as the main cause of eutrophication of waterways (farm runoff is the real source of phosphate pollution in waters). Most dishwasher detergents utilize carbonates and organic surfactants.

You can still purchase TSP as a granular powder in hardware stores (often sold in the paint section) but be careful not to pickup the "eco-friendly" TSP...which is not TSP at all but sodium carbonate (washing soda). Real TSP is banned in some US states though. TSP substitute is pretty worthless IMHO. (it is soda ash and sodium metasilicate) The most common brand sell the real stuff in a red box and the useless stuff in a green box.