Green swamp at opening

[PoolStored]

 

[WhitB08]

Not surprising if they have never been removed since 2013. Can you post a pic or two how/where they are attached?

Just 1 bolt per pole which he removed and really vigorously shook and pulled and they are either stuck or something was used to make them stay permanently down in there, which stinks not only in case they have algae inside, but they need to be removed and inspected because I think they might have a bit of rust.

 

[WhitB08]

Ill show him this. Didn’t think we needed instructions

 

[PoolStored]

Didn’t think we needed instructions

Isn't that why you are here?

 

[Newdude]

My ladder got good and seized every summer. It seemed to collect way more than its fair share of evaporated crud which would all but lock it in place.

I'd tape a 2x4 under the rails real tight to protect the rails and tap up under each rail with a sledge hammer. Aim is important. If you hit the extended part and not directly under the rails, it will sea saw and rip off. It might also bite you.

 

[WhitB08]

Ladders are out. Full of dark reddish brown water. They look powder coated but clearly there’s rust on the inside and a few spots on the outside. Just gonna leave those out while I keep working on this slam. Down in the holes in the concrete looks like some kind of large nasty fungal growths. Vitamin C tablets will arrive Saturday.

 

[PoolStored]

Ladders are out.

Ladder...check.

Do you have lights? Are they removable? Did you take them off and scrub behind them?
Did you scrub in your skimmers and the passage way of the skimmer from the opening to the basket? Did you check the foam in the weir doors for algae?

 

[Texas Splash]

Ladders are out. Full of dark reddish brown water. They look powder coated but clearly there’s rust on the inside and a few spots on the outside.

That is a big reason I mentioned that Vitamin C tablet test a page or two ago in this thread. Get enough iron in the water and you start to see signs of orange and/or dingy white parts. At 10 years old, you not only have an algae potential with those handrails, but also adding iron to the water. Might be time to shop for replacements.

 

[WhitB08]

That is a big reason I mentioned that Vitamin C tablet test a page or two ago in this thread. Get enough iron in the water and you start to see signs of orange and/or dingy white parts. At 10 years old, you not only have an algae potential with those handrails, but also adding iron to the water. Might be time to shop for replacements.

I thought it was due to the Clorox salt that I’ve had to use for the last two years. That was the only thing I could find in my area and despite adding one bag at a time and brushing, if any landed for any amount of time on the liner it left a light brown stain that lasted most of the season. I have to add a lot of salt but I am scared I’m going to have a bad result again. I was able to get Mortons this year and I’m not adding it until the water is clear where I can see the bottom really well and make sure to keep it all brushed up.

 

[WhitB08]

Ladder...check.

Do you have lights? Are they removable? Did you take them off and scrub behind them?
Did you scrub in your skimmers and the passage way of the skimmer from the opening to the basket? Did you check the foam in the weir doors for algae?

I do have LED lights but I don’t know about removing them and I’m not really comfortable trying that. Skimmers and all those components have been cleaned out well.

 

[Texas Splash]

You shouldn't have to mess with the LED lights. Those don't have a hollow niche like the larger traditional lights.

As for salt, in the future if you don't find Norton's Water Softener, go to HD or Lowe's and look for solar salt (blue bag). That works well too.

 

[WhitB08]

Day 13 update. Completely overcast for the past few days, so on the upside I have not used much chlorine. I’m only needing to test about four times a day In these conditions. Vitamin C tablet immediately began to remove the stains on the tanning ledge and made it obvious how bad it is! After this slam, the thought of taking my my fc to zero for an acid treatment makes me want to cry. Sunny week beginning tomorrow.

 

[Texas Splash]

Vitamin C tablet immediately began to remove the stains on the tanning ledge

Good. Not great that you have iron, but at least you know. For now, don't worry about it. The SLAM with its elevated FC and potentially (temporary) elevated pH can aggravate iron in the water. Just focus on the SLAM/algae. Once you pass all 3 SLAM criteria, then you can evaluate any residual iron staining and have the choice of treating it now or waiting until fall or next spring when the water temps drop low again. That way you aren't worried as much about algae.

 

[WhitB08]

*Let me know if I should start this as a new post under “equipment“ instead of here.
I may want to try deep cleaning the filter. It sounds easy enough and I was thinking it may help clear the water up faster. The article says I need to isolate the filter from the pool plumbing. Below is a picture of my set up. Clearly you can see where it comes from the pump, but the orange is where the water flows out when I backwash and rinse and the green pipe goes to my heater and then continues to the other water features and returns. So I’m assuming I need to disconnect somewhere along that green pipe?

 

[PoolStored]

*Let me know if I should start this as a new post under “equipment“ instead of here.
I may want to try deep cleaning the filter. It sounds easy enough and I was thinking it may help clear the water up faster. The article says I need to isolate the filter from the pool plumbing. Below is a picture of my set up. Clearly you can see where it comes from the pump, but the orange is where the water flows out when I backwash and rinse and the green pipe goes to my heater and then continues to the other water features and returns. So I’m assuming I need to disconnect somewhere along that green pipe?

First, in the most likely sense, you don't need to deep clean the filter. In fact, sand filters work a bit better a bit dirty. If it were me, I would not deep clean at this point, and just focus on the slam.

If you decide differently, to "Isolate" the filter, just turn the MVP to closed. (Make sure to turn the MPV when the pump is off).

 

[proavia]

First, in the most likely sense, you don't need to deep clean the filter. In fact, sand filters work a bit better a bit dirty. If it were me, I would not deep clean at this point, and just focus on the slam.

If you decide differently, to "Isolate" the filter, just turn the MVP to closed. (Make sure to turn the MPV when the pump is off).

Did you mean "Recirculate"?
"Closed" is usually for winterizing.

 

[WhitB08]

First, in the most likely sense, you don't need to deep clean the filter. In fact, sand filters work a bit better a bit dirty. If it were me, I would not deep clean at this point, and just focus on the slam.

If you decide differently, to "Isolate" the filter, just turn the MVP to closed. (Make sure to turn the MPV when the pump is off).

I’ll just continue with the slam then. It’s just so slow to clear up and it has never been deep cleaned so I thought maybe that would be necessary. Do you think I should backwash? I did so the first day of the slam 13 days ago because psi climbed from 20 to 21 and the pressure from the returns had decreased quite a bit. The gauge does go to zero when the pump is off, but there is never much of a change, especially an increase of 25%. I usually only backwash a few times the entire season when I noticed diminished pressure from the returns. The water in the site glass is green. The pool water was dark green when I first started and backwashed.

 

[mknauss]

Try Add DE to a Sand Filter

 

[PoolStored]

Did you mean "Recirculate"?
"Closed" is usually for winterizing.

I believe, but I'm happy to be corrected, because she has the side mount MPV, she can deep clean from the top cleanout, and isolate the plumbing by closing the MPV.

The water in the site glass is green. The pool water was dark green when I first started and backwashed.

The site glass is on the backwash/rinse side, so not an issue. You can unscrew the site glass, clean it and screw it back in.

The gauge does go to zero when the pump is off, but there is never much of a change, especially an increase of 25%.

Mine doesn't either. It can also make a big difference what you use for your baseline pressure reading and at what RPM. Sand Filters work better when they are a bit early.
What RPM do you run your filter at. I would recommend for NOW, backwash. Note your baseline pressure at some RPM between 2500 and 3000. Remember the PSI, remember the RPM you used and always use that RPM to measure both clean and current pressure. If you are running low RPM, I would guess, that you have, in-fact, risen 25%, your just don't know it. Pressure rise at lower RPM will be lower/slower to rise.

 

[WhitB08]

I believe, but I'm happy to be corrected, because she has the side mount MPV, she can deep clean from the top cleanout, and isolate the plumbing by closing the MPV.


The site glass is on the backwash/rinse side, so not an issue. You can unscrew the site glass, clean it and screw it back in.


Mine doesn't either. It can also make a big difference what you use for your baseline pressure reading and at what RPM. Sand Filters work better when they are a bit early.
What RPM do you run your filter at. I would recommend for NOW, backwash. Note your baseline pressure at some RPM between 2500 and 3000. Remember the PSI, remember the RPM you used and always use that RPM to measure both clean and current pressure. If you are running low RPM, I would guess, that you have, in-fact, risen 25%, your just don't know it. Pressure rise at lower RPM will be lower/slower to rise.

Not sure the psi correlation, but it always runs at 80% other than immediately after start up when it runs at 100% for 90 seconds. I’m not sure if that’s the best use of a variable speed pump, but when we bought this house we paid the pool builder to come out and give us a rundown and he just told me to leave it like that, lol.