Green pool

[Bassgirl8552]

Hi everyone. I have been a pool owner for almost 22 years but this year has me stumped!
I’ve hardly had a lick of trouble in all that time but unfortunately it’s been a bad start up year for me.

I have very cloudy water and I am having trouble getting it clear. I have an above ground pool 18’ x 38’ with a 7’ deep end with a sand filter and I usually use clorox 3” chlorine tablets.

I took my water to the pool store yesterday and this is how my water tested

TA 63
Ph 6.6
FC 5.4
TC 7.3
CH 202
CYA 96
Phosphate (?) 1786

CH and CYA were listed as good.

I proceeded to put 10lbs of baking soda in the pool to raise my PH. On the pool math app it showed that my TA should be between 50-90 and when I tested it with my pool kit ( after adding the baking soda) it was around 100.

Pool store recommends my TA should be 125-150. Pool Math app shows 50-90

I’m confused at the differences in totals that the pool store recommends vs what pool math app recommends.

I also add liquid chlorine daily but since my PH and TA are wonky, not sure the chlorine is doing much. I also think algae is starting because my chlorine is ineffective.

So should I raise my PH to acceptable levels even if it means raising my TA to unacceptable levels before SLAMING?

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

I’d like to swim sometime before winter comes around again.

Bassgirl8552

 

[PoolStored]

Welcome to TFP!!!

You need a proper test kit to manage your water. Order one, now!! LInk-->Test Kits Compared

Until then add 5ppm of liquid chlorine per day, until your receive your test kit, NOTHING ELSE!!! Do not pass go, do not collect $200, do not add anything else.

Why trust us? This...link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

When you get your kit, post a full set of results and we will get you square!!

(p.s. my family is all from just west of Pontiac, IL.)

 

[Texas Splash]

Trust your own testing and TFP recommended levels. It starts with a proper test kit.

 

[Bassgirl8552]

Received my Taylor 2006 yesterday. Will post this morning. Thanks!

 

[Bassgirl8552]

Good Morning!

Tested chemicals this morning

PH 7.0
TA 100
CYA 80
CH 280
FC clear. I haven’t added any chlorine since my PH AND TA aren’t good.

I will add a gallon of liquid chlorine this morning. Before I leave.

Please advise

Thanks

 

[PoolStored]

Great Job!!!

Your pH and TA are fine for the moment. Good job on adding liquid chlorine.

I would replace about 50% of your water. Read the "no drain water exchange" section of the article below.

You could attempt a SLAM with CYA of 80...but an 80 CYA slam is really hard, takes a lot of chlorine and many times members struggle with SLAM at this CYA level. Even if you replaced 25-30% would be way better. The reason you have high CYA is because the tablets add CYA. When CYA gets high enough, you cannot maintain enough HOCl to sanitize the water and you get algae...this is your case.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[JJ_Tex]

FC clear. I haven’t added any chlorine since my PH AND TA aren’t good.

PoolStored has you covered and is much better than the advice from the pool store itself.

One point of clarity for the future, only your FC kills algae. Don't let any of the other numbers being off prevent you from adding chlorine. Of course there are exceptions like really low pH (<~6.5) or some sort of accident/miscalculation, but those instances should be very rare that require you to prioritize something else over chlorine.

 

[Mdragger88]

Chlorine is King & ALWAYS priority #1
The next is ph in the 7’s - you’re fine there.
With a ta of 100 & no more additions of acidic products (like trichlor) your ph will rise on its own.
As mentioned doing the
SLAM Process with a cya of 80 is a tough go & can get expensive these days so replacing water to get that down before starting is recommended.
If your pool is buried at all don’t lower the water below the surrounding ground level or you risk collapse. Otherwise you still want to leave 12-18” of water in the shallow end to prevent the liner from shifting.
A no drain water exchange as listed in the article posted above avoids all those risks.

 

[HermanTX]

Good Morning!

Tested chemicals this morning

PH 7.0
TA 100
CYA 80
CH 280
FC clear. I haven’t added any chlorine since my PH AND TA aren’t good.

I will add a gallon of liquid chlorine this morning. Before I leave.

Please advise

Thanks

Just to address some points from your original post and the one above with test results
TFP does not follow the traditional guidelines of the pool store as it relates to FC, TA levels.

First for FC - It is best to follow the FC/CYA Levels which is important that you always have sufficient levels of FC for proper sanitation. So if your CYA is high such as 80 then your FC level should be 9-11ppm for proper sanitation. Ideally you should drain and replace water as mentioned to get CYA in the 50-60 range. But if you have algae then it is best to lower your CYA.

It appears you have made the switch from tabs to liquid chlorine (LC). That is great and you can manage the FC effectively by testing daily initially so you know how much your pool is losing FC due to bather load and UV. In the summer, I would always test at least every 2nd day simply to keep ahead of any issue.

For TA - there is a relationship of TA and pH. Please read Managing pH and Total Alkalinity - Further Reading
Right now your pH is fine - but that is because you have been using tabs and the tabs have acid in them which keeps your pH low.
Once you switch to LC, you will have to add Muriatic acid (MA) manually because your pH will start to rise.
A lower TA (60-80) will slow the rate of rise of your pH. Since MA reduces both TA and pH, when your pH rises to 8, then lower it to 7.4 with MA and it will also lower TA slightly. Continue this process of letting the pH rise to 8 then use MA to lower it, you will see the TA slowly come down. Then the pH rise will start to slow and you may only need to add MA once a week or so.

There are a lot of new guidelines when using TFP (especially if you are use to the pool store advice) but it is a proven methodology based on the membership that have switched and enjoy a clear and algae free pool.

 

[Bassgirl8552]

Well, I finally got my CYA down to 60 and started the slam process. I have been trying to keep my FC up to 10 for the last 2.5 days but still no change in my water. . PH is around 7.6 and TA is 110. Brushing pool floor every morning. I use skimmer socks so I wash those out daily. Any suggestions?

 

[Texas Splash]

Remember, with a CYA of 60, your SLAM FC level is actually "24" as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. You want to do your best to maintain that FC of 24 until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria.

 

[Bassgirl8552]

I have the pool math app and it says “24” is out of range. I’m gonna go broke buying chlorine.

 

[PieterS]

24 is out of range for 'typical' maintenance, but is the correct level for your CYA to do a slam. Keeping it at 10 won't do much, you really need to aim for that 24! If water is (relatively) cheap for you, might still want to consider another 50% exchange to lower down your CYA and get rid of half the algae! This will make your SLAM target lower, and hopefully require less chlorine!

 

[Mdragger88]

Well, I finally got my CYA down to 60 and started the slam process. I have been trying to keep my FC up to 10 for the last 2.5 days but still no change in my water. . PH is around 7.6 and TA is 110. Brushing pool floor every morning. I use skimmer socks so I wash those out daily. Any suggestions?

For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya
FC/CYA Levels

as often as possible (multiple times per day is best) until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

 

[Bassgirl8552]

I just added 6 gallons on top of the 1.5 I added earlier . . Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Bassgirl8552]

24 is out of range for 'typical' maintenance, but is the correct level for your CYA to do a slam. Keeping it at 10 won't do much, you really need to aim for that 24! If water is (relatively) cheap for you, might still want to consider another 50% exchange to lower down your CYA and get rid of half the algae! This will make your SLAM target lower, and hopefully require less chlorine!

Thanks for the info. Added the additional chlorine.

 

[Mdragger88]

I just added 6 gallons on top of the 1.5 I added earlier . . Thanks for the heads up.

stay on top of it to be the most efficient & get to the end result more quickly. The worst/largest amount is getting to slam level, checking/replenishing frequently requires less chlorine each time.
Slam on!

 

[Bassgirl8552]

Question. I have a Taylor 2006 test kit. Not sure if there is an easier way to check my slam levels if I’m at 24. I’ll run out of the solution to even do that. Is there a way to save on drops?

 

[Mdragger88]

Question. I have a Taylor 2006 test kit. Not sure if there is an easier way to check my slam levels if I’m at 24. I’ll run out of the solution to even do that. Is there a way to save on drops?

Use 10ml sample & every drop counts as .5ppm
Order more reagents/powder now so you don’t run out

 

[Bassgirl8552]

Also where is the best place to purchase reagents to replace?