Green algae, low calcium hardness- should I SLAM?

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sabzee4

Member
Jun 8, 2021
12
albany, ny
First post- Need help!

Background: As per routine, had pool guy open our 20,000 gallons, outdoor DE pool 10 days ago, added 10 gallons of chlorine. The pool started to clear and algae sunk/ collected at bottom over next 3 days. Added tablets to the chlorinator. Rained continuously 2 days raising the pool water level so drained pool to the proper level. Pool was slightly green and cloudy.
Vacuum- 5 days ago- Whenever I vacuumed, noticed jets throwing out dirt back into pool, so backwashed every time. (Filter was serviced when pool opened). Tested water with strips 2 days ago and all levels were ok. Only stabilizer was slightly low

Past 3 days, the pool has continued to be green and cloudy. Can't vacuum the deep end as can't see the bottom at all.
Yesterday, I added 1 gallon of chlorine to the deep end early in the morning. In the afternoon, got the water tested at Leslie's:
FC: 0.66
TC: 6.01
pH: 7.5
TA: 50
Calcium Hardness: 88
CYA: 5
Iron/ copper: 0
Phosphates: 1673
TDS: 500

Added HTH Ultimate algaecide and 4oz Clorox clarifier last night.
This morning, there's slight foam across the surface of the pool.

According to calculations, will need to add 20lbs of calcium hardness increaser. Will go buy a de-icer today from the local hardware store as chlorine hardness increaser OOS or purchase quantity limited (Will this work?).

Am I taking the right steps? Or should I SLAM? How much liquid chlorine will I need?

Please guide! Kids can't wait to jump in the pool!
 
Welcome to tfp!
Here we rely on homeowner testing with one of these test kits Tf-100 or Taylor k2006c Test Kits Compared.
Pool store tests are known to have inaccuracies.
If you have visible algae (which you do) then a SLAM Process
w/ liquid chlorine is in order.
To do this you must have a proper test kit as it requires testing & adding chlorine multiple times a day.
Until it comes in you can add 5ppm worth of liquid a day to keep it from getting worse. Use PoolMath to calculate additions.

When you get your test kit , run all the tests & you can post them here for further guidance.
You have not completed your signature so its hard to give guidance about the need for ch.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Algeacides are for preventing algae but don’t do much for killing it once it takes hold. Save your $$ for liquid chlorine.

If your stabilizer is really that low you will need to purchase some in addition to getting prepared with lots of liquid chlorine on hand.
Here’s some more links to help u get a better understanding of the methods we follow.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
 
Thanks for your advice.
So when I put in the numbers in the poolmath app, it says to put in 3 gallons of chlorine to get FC from 0.66 to 10 for SLAM Target FC.
I got the following message: "Your target is outside the recommended range!" I should ignore that, right?

I feel awful that I wasted the $40 bottle of algaecide:( sigh.
What stabilizer do you recommend I get? Should I add more tablets in the chlorinator?
 
Follow link in MDs post for proper kits. Don’t do anything but add 5ppm chlorine to hold off algae increase until you get proper test kit. Post your results and these folks will give advice from there! 😀
Dry stabilizer.

No pucks until know cya level.
 
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Msch99 said:
Follow link in MDs post for proper kits. Don’t do anything but add 5ppm chlorine to hold off algae increase until you get proper test kit. Post your results and these folks will give advice from there! 😀
Dry stabilizer.

No pucks until know cya level.
Click to expand...
I'm a bit confused about the kit-
akrauze said:
If you go with the Taylor you should get the K-2006C.
I'm very happy with my TF-100
Click to expand...
I was trying to see what's locally available for pick-up but nothing seems to be in stock:(
Will order the TF-100! Hope it comes quick! Any coupon codes out there?
 

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sabzee4 said:
I'm a bit confused about the kit-
Click to expand...
You can't go wrong with the TF100. But if you wanted the k-2006, make sure you get the k-2006C because it has more reagents for the Chlorine FAS/DPD test. That will likely be the most frequently used test. If you don't get the C, you will be buying more reagents before the end of the season.
 
Shirker said:
You can't go wrong with the TF100. But if you wanted the k-2006, make sure you get the k-2006C because it has more reagents for the Chlorine FAS/DPD test. That will likely be the most frequently used test. If you don't get the C, you will be buying more reagents before the end of the season.
Click to expand...
We only have a 3 mths swimming season :( Just wishing for a quick fix.
How long does the TF100 last?
 
sabzee4 said:
It's going to rain all night tonight. Should I hold off on adding the chlorine till tomorrow evening?
Click to expand...
I personally think the only problem with rain is the inconvenience of testing multiple times in the rain. I'd like to hear from one of the TFP experts if they have any specific suggestions.
 
Rain has little effect on water chemistry. Now, if you have a hurricane that dumps 3 feet of rain in 24 hours and inundates the pool with run off, that is an issue. But normal rainfall, no big deal.
 
I have added plenty of chlorine in the rain 🌧 like Marty said unless its a hurricane it won’t effect much. Of course I don’t recommend doing so in lightning conditions.
The tf-100 is the way to go as far as value for the amount of regeants & i also prefer the flat box.
As stated above, don’t add anything except the 5ppm of liquid chlorine/day until you get your kit & some test results.
If you want to get 2 bags of the stabilizer go ahead as it will keep fine if u store it in a dry place especially if unopened.
Last week when i went to order from walmart it was out of stock. The only choices were 4# for $20 or more $$ Every where! I am glad to know it’s back to regular price at my go to place.
 

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