Greeeeeeen Water
- Thread starter MAndrews1
- Start date
Test your water and post your numbers.
I am more concerned about "Chlorine 3" Pucks" than I am about the color of the water.
I am more concerned about "Chlorine 3" Pucks" than I am about the color of the water.
How about starting with a water test? If the water is overloaded with CYA or CH you'll need to replace a bunch anyway so the decision is easy. If you end up with no CYA, then there's the fear of ammonia, which will cost more in bleach to eliminate than it will in refill water. Test a five gallon bucket full of pool water. Raise FC to 10, (1 teaspoon) stir it up and test it again in five minutes. If FC is pretty well gone but CC is huge, you'll want to drain.
Clear as that water?
Clear as that water?
How much is left? I can't tell from the pic. Likely easiest to drain if you don't have an issue with high water table.
- Jul 16, 2012
- 7,204
- Pool Size
- 27000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
It has been quite a wet spring here and I expect there too. But water tables vary from one lot to the next.
If you have a high water table you are not precluded from a full drain though. But you'd want to do the drain from below and fill from above using a LARGE plastic sheet method. The sheet isn't the cheapest but its an insurance policy. Just food for thought.
If you have a high water table you are not precluded from a full drain though. But you'd want to do the drain from below and fill from above using a LARGE plastic sheet method. The sheet isn't the cheapest but its an insurance policy. Just food for thought.
Ok I tested the water and below are the results. For the CYA it got cloudier as I filled the test tube but I could still see the dot.
FC 1.0
CC 0.0
Ph 8.5
TA 30
CH 60
CYA < 30
FC 1.0
CC 0.0
Ph 8.5
TA 30
CH 60
CYA < 30
Since you have a gunite surface, you are going to have some work to do on your water. You'd need to get your TA and CH up, and then add acid to get your pH down.
And, that's not considering what you would need to do to get it sanitized and the bulk of the organic material you have lying in bottom of the pool.
If it were me... I'd probably drain it, assuming you don't have to deal with water table issues.
But, first might want to test your fill water. If you fill water is as bad... or even worse, that might sway me in the other direction. (Don't bother testing for CYA in your fill water... it's 0).
And, that's not considering what you would need to do to get it sanitized and the bulk of the organic material you have lying in bottom of the pool.
If it were me... I'd probably drain it, assuming you don't have to deal with water table issues.
But, first might want to test your fill water. If you fill water is as bad... or even worse, that might sway me in the other direction. (Don't bother testing for CYA in your fill water... it's 0).
It usually is this green every opening. I have always just sanitized and vac to waste seemed to work then. I have about half of it drained now but I am so paranoid about the water table here. I'm sure it is fine but I'll always have that concern. I dug a 4 foot deep hole last year and didn't hit water... but my pool is 6 ft deep at the deep end.
If there is any question about the water table, don't roll the dice. Below is what I would do, but might want to get a couple opinions...
Biggest concern is your CSI on the gunite.
You are OK right now, because your high pH is keeping your CSI in the safe zone. But, if you start lowering it before increasing your CH and TA, it will be out of the safe zone.
So, first fill your pool, then retest your water. Depending on what your fill water looks like (if it's very hard), that in itself may address the issues.
Add CYA to get it to about 40.
I would take your CH to about 250. That's a bit on the low side... But, it's easy to overshoot CH (I've done it myself). And, once you overshoot, it sucks to take it back down.
Take your TA to 90. A bit on the high side. But, when you knock down your pH, it's going to knock down your TA. And, it will help with the initial CSI.
Then bring down your pH to about 7.2. (I think your CSI should be OK with any pH in the 7's).
Then, start your SLAM.
I ended up deciding to drain it. We haven't had many hot days yet so I figured I have time. Hope to begin filling back up by tomorrow.
I finally have it all cleaned out drained and re-filled with water. Tested the water last night and had the following results;
FC: 1.5
CC: 0
pH: 7.6
TA: 75
CH: 80
CYA:0
Suggestions on where to adjust first?
FC: 1.5
CC: 0
pH: 7.6
TA: 75
CH: 80
CYA:0
Suggestions on where to adjust first?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,346
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Pool School - Recommended Levels
You should plan to do a SLAM after you have the levels settled as shown in the above. No need to mess with the TA in the pool as long as the pH is stable. You do need to get CH up for your gunite.
Take care!
You should plan to do a SLAM after you have the levels settled as shown in the above. No need to mess with the TA in the pool as long as the pH is stable. You do need to get CH up for your gunite.
Take care!
There's probably still some residual algae spores hiding here and there, so I suggest you start with a SLAM.
Adjust pH to 7.2. Add CYA to get to 30. FC to 10 for the first couple doses. Once the CYA sock has started dissolving, raise that to 12 FC. You might pass all three tests overnight. And then you can raise CYA to whatever and adjust FC to the right level for that CYA value. And then boost CH as needed. Sometimes the water clouds up for a day or two after adding Calcium, so it's better to know there's no algae before you add it, and that's all it is, not a bloom.
I cannot keep chlorine in the water for some reason. Last night I dumped a whole gallon in and just tested the water and got these results.
FC - 0
PH - 7.6 (working on lowering to 7.2)
TA - 90
CH - 250
CYA - 30
Thoughts?
FC - 0
PH - 7.6 (working on lowering to 7.2)
TA - 90
CH - 250
CYA - 30
Thoughts?
HI there
I'm assuming you have it filled back up. You need to follow the SLAM process Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And MaintainIt isn't a one time addition of bleach. You're likely going to need gallons and gallons of bleach, not one or two. Read that link and follow to a tee. I see nothing unusual in adding a whole gallon of bleach last night and being zero FC today.
HI there
It isn't a one time addition of bleach. You're likely going to need gallons and gallons of bleach, not one or two. Read that link and follow to a tee. I see nothing unusual in adding a whole gallon of bleach last night and being zero FC today.
Thanks. Just went out and added 2 gallons which is the amount to get to 12 FC
Deb04
LifeTime Supporter
- Jul 12, 2008
- 651
- Pool Size
- 19000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You're going to need lots and lots of gallons bc SLAMming is and ongoing thing until you pass all 3 criteria. Also, you're going to chlorinate from now on with that instead of pucks. So, you might as well go back and get, say, 10 gallons to start with.
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