Grandfather’s Pool — 3 Years of Cloud

Jklburns

Member
Jul 16, 2019
12
East Texas
Hi all! I’m new here and several of you helped me start up my pool, and it’s looking great. So great, in fact, I’ve talked up these methods to everyone I know, and my family members are all relying on me to help them get their pools on the straight and narrow!

Which leads me to my grandfather’s pool — ignore my signature for this (sig is my pool, not his). He has a 40,000 gallon 35 yr. old vinyl in-ground pool (liner has been replaced a time or two, couldn’t tell you when, but it’s in decent enough shape for now), SWG (unsure of brand), Pentair Sand filter, no spa/waterfalls/etc. He typically closes his pool for winter/opens it up for summer even though we are in the south because he’s getting up there in years and looks forward to the months of not having to take care of the pool for the grandkids. He’s about ready to fill in the pool completely because he keeps hiring pool guys and for the past three years the water never gets better than a murky, cloudy blue. Couldn’t tell you the last time we’ve seen the bottom.

Well, now I’m on the case, and want to see what I can do to help him out — he has a SWG, so if we can get this fixed, it should be relatively maintenance free for him (or way less time and expense than has been put in the past three years). And maybe he’ll keep the pool.

So, on to the good stuff — I took my TF-100 test kit and speed stir down there today to see what we are up against. Apparently the pool guy was out yesterday (wish I would have known and they could have cancelled that visit...).

FC: 30!!
PH: 7.2 (who knows if that was right given the chlorine level)
CC: 1
CH: 200
TA: 70
CYA: Off the charts — I immediately couldn’t see the black dot (test performed outside in daylight)
Salt is reading at 3200, no issues with the SWG that I know of

As soon as I saw the CYA, I now know we have to do a water exchange, so from here is where I could use some brain power to make sure we do this correctly, as I’m a 2-month old pool owner and haven’t ever had to do any of this.

He says he can drain his pool via the deep end main drain and bypass the filter. He would have to fill it up with a hose from city well water. This will be a slow exchange process because he is limited by his water source (no way to bring in water), and his pool is massive. But he is willing to give it a try. I didn’t perform a diluted CYA test at this point, because we know we have to drain anyway, and I’ll save the reagent to test after we do some of the water exchange.

Am I on the right track for first steps??

Once we get the CYA down to approx. 70, I’ll then have to deal with the obvious algae issues, and yellow staining around the liner — which I think is algae but he thinks is metal from the fill water (I’m going to test that later because we might need to filter the fill water if it’s metal coming in — I don’t want to stain the liner more). But who knows what else other stuff has been added to this water by these pool guys over the last 3 years. In his pool shed I found multiple empty buckets that used to be dichlor, a half full buck of stabilizer, a full bottle of phosfree, multiple pH up and down products, and was told that they’ve flocc’d, used sequestrates, algaecide (maybe that’s his metal source) and shocked galore. There is no telling how much they’ve spent on cloudy water.

Anything else I’m missing, not thinking of, or obvious pitfalls???
 
Do the diluted CYA test to better estimate how much you need to exchange.
You can get a 16oz. bottle of CYA reagent for under $20 and not sweat the test. Lasts long time too.
Good on you for helping out GrandDad.
 
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I'm going to disagree with the above, if you weren't even close to the 100 mark then you are probably over 200 anyway which would make the diluted test as unhelpful as the undiluted one, so no reason to waste reagent. Just start getting the water replaced and worry about numbers later.
 
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That’s where I was at —- even if cya was closer to 100, we’d still need to start exchanging some water, so might as well get that started and get a more accurate test at a midway point.

Is there any reason to be concerned that this water exchange might take some time? Am I right that as long as I can keep him or the pool guy from adding anything to the water during the process, the cya will eventually have to go down some?
 
You are definitely on teh right track, and your way of handling this is spot on.

A word regarding the water exchange. dont drain a vinyl pool any lower than a few inches below the pool steps. The liner will shift and get wrinkles, and there isnt any way to really get it back to where it was.

During the water exchange, I would at least spend for a gallon a day of bleach in hopes that the algae doesnt get any worse until you get the CYA down.

That's my .02
 
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I'm going to disagree with the above, if you weren't even close to the 100 mark then you are probably over 200 anyway which would make the diluted test as unhelpful as the undiluted one, so no reason to waste reagent. Just start getting the water replaced and worry about numbers later.

:scratch: Why guess over $0.25 of reagent? You can dilute as much as you need to estimate your number and run it three times for less than $1.00
If you are starting at 150ppm verses 250ppm that is almost a 25% difference in the amount you need to drain assuming at final target of 70ppm for a SWG pool.
That is 10,000 gallons in GDads pool.
The fact that it's a vinyl liner also requires not getting the water too shallow so targeting the amount and monitoring the drain is important.
If you under estimate your CYA ppm and begin filling too soon you will have to drain again prolonging the process and wasting fill water. More CYA testing too.
Know the chemistry of your pool water and know what you adding (or removing). You have a good kit use it, my opinion.
 
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I really appreciate the thoughts on the testing. I’ll order some more of the reagent and we can get some more precise cya measurements without me trying to skimp on reagents. In the meantime I think we are going to start the water exchange with about 18 inches which puts the water just below the first step but above the second step.
 
:scratch: Why guess over $0.25 of reagent?
Because it is an exercise in futility, and I'm against those regardless of cost. A 2:1 dilution won't reveal any additional information given the undiluted results. And any further dilution introduces such a large margin of error as to make the test increasingly unreliable. Which is why you don't see anything larger recommended. It also becomes silly, 300 ppm CYA and 400 ppm CYA both require virtually the same water change. So even if it were free I would tell someone in this situation not to bother and just start dumping water as quickly as feasible.
 
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Another question, should I have him turn off his SWG for now? He’s at 30 FC and we can add the gallon of liquid a day until we get the water turned over (and we will need to do liquid anyway during the SLAM portion).
 
Yes, but mostly because the salt level will be dropping and there could be spots during the exchange where it isn't fully mixed and cause a random low salt warning. Also you might consider not running the pump during this exchange except when draining. Of the incoming water is about as warm as the pool water then it will float on top of it (less dense than saltwater) and you want the water to remain as still as possible to keep them separate and pull concentrated pool water from the bottom drain.
 
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