I think you can make it by till then with liquid chlorine as long as the OCLT holds or even if it doesn't hold but not holding by a little is manageable. If it drops like a rock that's a different story.
Got the TF Test Kit Pro... results and pictures.
- Thread starter summertimesadness
- Start date
You can reuse the mix as many times as ypu need. Suck it back into the squirter, give it a shake and go until you get 2 out of 3 to agree.
11-13 with a minimum of 8.
See : FC/CYA Levels
This is the time of year (and place in the NorthEast) to have to get by with high CYA. Daily demand is going to drop like a brick soon and it will be reasonably manageable. You'll lose 5 ppm a month for 6 months and between closing draining and rain/snow, it'll be like it didn't even happen this year.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,691
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I would just live with what you have for another 4 weeks until you close and keep our FC between 10 and 20.
I don’t think it makes sense to drain your pool and lower the CYAA and then follow the SLAM Process to clear things right before you close.
When you open your pool next year your CYA will be lower and you can follow the SLAM Process and install the SWG. Plan to open early so you can get the work done before swimming season begins.
I don’t think it makes sense to drain your pool and lower the CYAA and then follow the SLAM Process to clear things right before you close.
When you open your pool next year your CYA will be lower and you can follow the SLAM Process and install the SWG. Plan to open early so you can get the work done before swimming season begins.
Ok, sounds good.
So, should I be testing FC daily? The test I performed on page 1 had my FC at around 20.
Should I test again today and see how much I need to add liquid CHL?
This is what I wake up to in the AM.. and what concerns me.
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,691
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Note that with your FC above 10 the pH test reads high and is invalid. So don’t go lowering your pH due to an invalid test. Check your pH when your FC drops below 10.
You need to manage your water chemistry and keep FC high enough to keep the algae in check. The algae will be there and you just live with it until you can eradicate it next Spring when you can do the SLAM Process.
Yes, test FC daily since the algae will be consuming chlorine every day. If you fall behind then the algae can bloom and you will end up with a green pool.
You need to manage your water chemistry and keep FC high enough to keep the algae in check. The algae will be there and you just live with it until you can eradicate it next Spring when you can do the SLAM Process.
Yes, test FC daily since the algae will be consuming chlorine every day. If you fall behind then the algae can bloom and you will end up with a green pool.
That stuff in the picture just needs to be brushed so it gets into the water stream and filter.
Tested again yesterday. Just about 20.
Going to test later as well.... as the PH is a bit goofy from the higher CHL, what else should I be testing or doing?
Going to test later as well.... as the PH is a bit goofy from the higher CHL, what else should I be testing or doing?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,691
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Don't bother with the pH test with your FC over 10.
Brush your pool regularly.
Do your normal pool care.
Will do. Thanks for your help.
One can use the pool at these FC levels, right? What's the 'danger zone' for FC test levels?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,691
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You can use the pool as long as the FC is BELOW the SLAM FC level. So let the FC drift down a bit if you want to use the pool then raise it to SLAM FC level once you are done swimming.
@ajw22 Question if you don't mind... I haven't been testing the PH as the FC has been over 10 (and either you or someone else said at those levels my PH tests wouldn't be accurate).
We have a pool heater that will be used in the near future as the days and nights get colder. Would high PH hurt the heater? I thought the pool inspector when we bought the place made some comment about high PH and the coils / heater components not liking high PH.
We have a pool heater that will be used in the near future as the days and nights get colder. Would high PH hurt the heater? I thought the pool inspector when we bought the place made some comment about high PH and the coils / heater components not liking high PH.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,691
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
High pH is not a problem for the heater but could lead to scaling of the heat exchanger. Let your FC drop to 8 or 9 and see what the pH test says.
Low pH below 7 can damage the copper heat exchanger.
If you are going to run high FC for a while you should get a pH meter like the Apera pH20 with calibrating solutions to measure your pH.
Low pH below 7 can damage the copper heat exchanger.
If you are going to run high FC for a while you should get a pH meter like the Apera pH20 with calibrating solutions to measure your pH.