Got Schooled by my Taylor K-2006C - Big thanks to TFP!

Last bit of data before close.
Heater has been off for 2 weeks with a blue plastic bubble cover on it and SWCG is still set at 20% output.
Pool temp is ~68..

FC 13.5
CC 0
pH 8.0. Added 1 pt MA
TA 100 (the result of my mistake a couple weeks back)
CH 325 ! Odd
CyA 80

CSI of 0.16

Some leaves have found their way under the cover and I will remove all that before closing.
 
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What happens if I write here?
Would love to continue this thread into the new year and opening season...
 
Opened up the pool this weekend!
Removed winter cover. There was some debris, leaves, twigs, dirt, worms, etc.... in the pool. All this stuff found its way into the pool, through or under the cover (pool was empty of organic matters when we closed it). Put my robot to work (twice). Did lots of brushing of the sides and bottom of the pool, and vacuuming to waste. That evening, put in a gallon of 10% chlorine.
Next day, more brushing, left pump on. Then did a backwash.

Added about 40 lbs of salt cause that was <2400 ppm.
FC 14.8 ppm
Combined Chlorine 1.2 ppm
pH 7.6
TA 40 (added backing soda )
CA 180
CyA 50-60! That is surprising!

temp of water is 52.
 
Switch to 10ml test samples for FC. .5 accuracy is plenty enough (each drop is half a FC) for what we need to do, and you'll save 2.5X the supplies.

For example, whether it's 14.5 or 14.8 doesn't change anything. The 14 part is GREAT.
 
Yes agreed. I had assumed very low levels of chlorine.
Check today and FC was 11.5 ppm
CC was zero.
Brushed walls and floors and added more salt ~20 lbs cause the SWG was reading 2600-2700 ppm only.
Water is also cold and the SWG is flashing inspect cell and low salt.

Will check chlorine tomorrow and also start adding some CyA.
 
Still adding salt (2800 ppm at SWG). SWG cell signals stopped flashing.
FC steady at 11.5 ppm
CC at 0.
 
Get yourself a k1766 salt test. Its $30 and costs way less than having to drain and rebalance because you added too much based upon the cell reading.

The cell uses a conductivity test and not a chemical test. Besides other metals in the water skewing the results such as calcium, it's also affected by water temps.
 
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Get yourself a k1766 salt test. Its $30 and costs way less than having to drain and rebalance because you added too much based upon the cell reading.

The cell uses a conductivity test and not a chemical test. Besides other metals in the water skewing the results such as calcium, it's also affected by water temps.
A dirty cell (scale) also lends to lower salt readings (don't ask me how I know. ugh)
 
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I remembered I had a salt check strip from the folks who installed the pool.
Got a reading of 3000 ppm today using that strip. The SWCG says 2900 ppm. Will wait and see how steady this number is with rain coming...temps rising.....
 
+1. Your whole easy operation hinges on the salt content. A reliable reading is paramount to the operation. The $30 drop test (Taylor K-1766) will be put to use several times a season and last at least 2 years. The silver nitrate when stored at room temperature with the cap on is probably good forever.
 
FC 8.5 ppm
CC 0.5 ppm
pH 7.8
TA 70
CH200 ppm. Added ~10 lbs Calcium
CyA ~55 ppm, added some CyA.

Rain coming. Pool is clean of debris brushing 2-3 times a week. And did a couple backwashes already.

Still cloudy.

Temp at 56 F.
 
If not clear by now, I think you need to SLAM.
While you have a good amount of FC, your CYA is also on the higher end (buffering).

 
Thanks Reggie, it's magic how today (the pool heard you maybe), the water is totally clear, or so it seems.
Will report back on levels and status of things.
 
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FC 10; strange, cause I added CyA a couple days ago, the CyA has not gone up (still ~55), but the chlorine has increase while the SWCG is still set at the same output, and I have not added chlorine. The CyA has stabilized my chlorine and it is not being degraded? Is that what happened?
CC 0
TA 80
CH 240
CyA closer to 60
 

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