Getting ready to add baking soda

[LBI salt pool]

Hi guys
A month ago my TA was 80. Today it’s 50. I want to goose it back to around 65-75. I’m trying to follow the chart with the ideal values Plan is to start with one lb.
How long to wait before re testing?
Broadcast the powder and then brush everything?
Is it ok to swim?
Thanks

 

[pjt]

Today it’s 50. I want to goose it back to around 65-75.

No need. TA of 50 is perfectly fine. A non-trichlor pool will (almost) never need baking soda.

I’m trying to follow the chart with the ideal values

Don't chase the numbers. You'll be inducing a problem.

For the TA test, are you continuing to add drops until there's no additional color change?

What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

What's your pH?

Be judicious with any MA additions. pH rise should be minimal to none with a TA of 50.

PH TA Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Jimrahbe]

A TA of 50 is not an issue...

Check your CSI and make sure it is slightly neg.. -0 to -.3

Thanks..

Jim R.

 

[LBI salt pool]

No need. TA of 50 is perfectly fine. A non-trichlor pool will (almost) never need baking soda.


Don't chase the numbers. You'll be inducing a problem.

For the TA test, are you continuing to add drops until there's no additional color change?

What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

What's your pH?

Be judicious with any MA additions. pH rise should be minimal to none with a TA of 50.

PH TA Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

It was around 8 this morning. I added a bit of acid
I don’t have the fill levels.
If 50 is fine then when do we have these charts with optimal levels that we are supposed to shoot for?

 

[LBI salt pool]

No need. TA of 50 is perfectly fine. A non-trichlor pool will (almost) never need baking soda.


Don't chase the numbers. You'll be inducing a problem.

For the TA test, are you continuing to add drops until there's no additional color change?

What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

What's your pH?

Be judicious with any MA additions. pH rise should be minimal to none with a TA of 50.

PH TA Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I stop adding drops when vial turns red completely

 

[pjt]

I added a bit of acid

You should need just a splash of MA to get your pH back into the high 7s.

If 50 is fine then when do we have these charts with optimal levels that we are supposed to shoot for?

It's a broad range to accommodate different pools and climates.

I stop adding drops when vial turns red completely

Keep going until there's no additional color change. For me, it usually takes another 3 drops after the initial color change.

Are you using PoolMath?

Are you tracking CSI? It's not as critical for you since you have a fiberglass pool, but keeping it slightly negative (between zero and -0.3) will prevent scale forming on your SWCG.

 

[proavia]

Post a full set of current test results from your TF-100.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water Temperature

With s SWG, you want to target a CSI of 0.00 to -0.30 (negative 0.30) to minimize scaling in the SWG.

A pH of 7.8 to 8.0 is usually just fine.
Once we see test results we can better advise.

 

[LBI salt pool]

You should need just a splash of MA to get your pH back into the high 7s.


It's a broad range to accommodate different pools and climates.


Keep going until there's no additional color change. For me, it usually takes another 3 drops after the initial color change.

Are you using PoolMath?

Are you tracking CSI? It's not as critical for you since you have a fiberglass pool, but keeping it slightly negative (between zero and -0.3) will prevent scale forming on your SWCG.

Yes I use pool math. Thanks for your help. I didn’t know I was supposed to keep adding drops until no more color change. It clearly does not state that in the TF 100 instructions. It went from black at 6 drops to very red at 7. I stuck with 70 alkalinity. I’ll see how ph reacts
Regarding CSI , I don’t know about it but I’m happy to play that game.

 

[Homebrewale]

I guess it depends on what your pool likes. I just added some baking soda because the TA is 50. My pool likes the TA at 70. Last season I did not add one drop of MA to my pool. The pH stays steady at 7.6. My pool dropped to TA of 50 and now the pH has drifted up to 7.8.

 

[pjt]

I didn’t know I was supposed to keep adding drops until no more color change.

It's the same concept for the FC/CC, TA, and CH tests. Add another drop to see if the color changes. If it did, count it and continue. If it didn't, don't count it and the test is complete. The only test that's different is the salt test (as soon as it changes over to milky salmon, the test is complete).

I stuck with 70 alkalinity. I’ll see how ph reacts

I would expect slow pH rise with a TA of 70.

Regarding CSI , I don’t know about it but I’m happy to play that game.

PoolMath does the heavy lifting for you. Enable temperature and CSI tracking in the app as well as sharing of your PoolMath data.

 

[LBI salt pool]

Says my CSI is 0.56

 

[mknauss]

I didn’t know I was supposed to keep adding drops until no more color change. It clearly does not state that in the TF 100 instructions

Directly from the Test Instructions in Pool School:

1. Continue adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count.