I should have known there reference material already available on the site! Looks like the bypass is definitely in order, seems easy enough to plumb in while I'm at it. Thank you both for the help!!
If I could trouble you for a bit more advice it would be greatly appreciated. I have done quite a bit of reading up on bonding and in particular bonding my particular intex pool. I have come up with the plan to run the bonding loop around the pool and tie in the water and the heater. The pump is double insulated and should not be tied in. The pool frame itself seems a bit impractical to try and properly bond. I'm not looking for code compliance but I am seeking to make the pool as safe as possible. We have a wooden deck and plastic ladder. Any advice you care to offer?A Heater Bypass - Further Reading is good to have.
Low pH water is what damages the heater core.
Chlorine at SLAM levels and even some above will not damage a heater. Low pH is the killer to heaters. Not other chemicals, high or low.
After fuether reading, I think you're telling me I need to tie in the frame of the pool?Read this on bonding then lets discuss- Electrical Bonding - Further Reading
The house AC unit has no connection to the pool water and should not be bonded.
After fuether reading, I think you're telling me I need to tie in the frame of the pool?
I agree. With that said I was reading a thread last night that I believe you were a part of. The poster had the same pool as mine and I believe the conclusion was that in order to properly bond this particular frame the 4 top rails would need to be tied to one of the legs and all legs would need to be tied into the loop. Does that sound familiar? Thanks for the responses by the way, you're a stickler and I like that about you.
I think i could use a threaded insert to make quick work of attaching to the legs, like you said I would create more rust issues, I could probably mitigate that with the proper paint and silicone. If the kids use the pool as much as they did last summer we will likely upgrade to a permanent agp at some point. The quicker this one rusts the quicker I can upgrade! This was really a test pool for us.I replay to many and don't remember that one specifically.
Since you are trying to be as safe as possible and not to any code or inspection I say do as much as you can. The problem with bonding to the AGP supports is rustproofing any holes you make so that the bond point does not become a rust failure point. The manufacturers don't help by providing bonding attach points..
Thanks for he compliment.![]()
Isn't it most important to bond the pool water? That's what these fittings are for: Amazon.com : Perma-Cast PB2008 Water Bonding Fitting PB-2008 : Garden & Outdoor These can be mounted in a skimmer or piping as close to the pool as you can. The outside receives a large copper bonding wire.
and tie in the water
Yeah I was looking at a similar device that was actually part of a union that could be plumbed in. Trouble is I have the cheapo over the wall skimmer. I was considering plumbing it into the return or perhaps the supply side.Isn't it most important to bond the pool water? That's what these fittings are for: Amazon.com : Perma-Cast PB2008 Water Bonding Fitting PB-2008 : Garden & Outdoor These can be mounted in a skimmer or piping as close to the pool as you can. The outside receives a large copper bonding wire.
Here are some pictures of my setup--I used this plumbing for 3 summers until the pool frame rusted too badly to continue using. I'll admit embarrassment over the weediness of the pump area--that was fixed last year to a clean gravel area--but you get the idea. Isolation valves are your friends--they let you work on things without draining the pool. Also, I put this piping away during the winter, so I appreciate the ability to disassemble it with the various threaded connections.
Thanks for the pictures I'm trying to decide which heater to purchase for an Intex 15' round, I noticed the bonding port do you bond the heater and pool?
I got mine at Valley Pool and Spa in Monroeville, they're a chain around Pittsburgh. Got a Pentair 125k MasterTemp. About $1k.Yes, it should be connected to the bonding loop.
Just got it installed yesterday and its working great. Pool is 88 right now. My pump has to be running to run the heater so I don't think we will run 24/7. Until I figure out how to trigger the pump to come on with the heater I will just set the thermostat and run it at nigh with the pump, then if we need more I kick it on during the day. Im still figuring out the best way to work it.Hey how the heater working out? Im excited that I bought one with our pool package.. cant wait just to get the pool up.
Do you just set the temp and run it 24/7? Or do you use it when needed? My thought was to set ours at 80 at all times which I guess our pump would always run