My swg is not producing chlorine. Water is crystal clear though. This is my 4th season with pool, we had it installed. Had water tested at two different pool stores yesterday and nearly identical results. Last test showed 2.4 total and .3 free chlorine. Shocked 4 days before last tests. Had high phosphates to start year, 5800 or so, reduced now to 646. Still little to no stabilizer. Even after second bag 4 days ago, did not raise. Salt level on screen is a little high vs water test. 3.3 on screen vs 3k on test. Temp on screen dead on vs pool thermometer. Got a low voltage code to start year (1st week of May), cleaned cell in water and acid mix and that went away. Cell appears clean. Pulled cover and checked all cables and wiring. Other forums I read all seem to come with code, I have none showing. I'm at a loss and would appreciate any advice. Took a bunch of photos, hopefully that helps.
Fusion Nature 2 soft 1400 not making chlorine
- Thread starter harshstorm32
- Start date
Welcome to TFP.
Nothing you state indicates the SWCG is not producing chlorine. What is the concern is that either algae or UV is consuming chlorine as it is being made by your SWCG. it shows the SWCG is set at 80% but how long are you running your pump to produce chlorine. For example, 33k gals, 80% output for AquaPure 1400 will produce 3.6ppm of FC in 24 hours. So if your pump time is less than 24 hrs the FC production will be less i.e 12hrs is just 1.8ppm. So the FC could easily be consumed by algae or UV. Especially with no CYA.
Are all your tests from pool store? With a TC of 2.4 and FC of 0.3 it shows that your CC is 2.1 (TC=FC+CC). This is an indication of algae growth.
It is also indicated that there is no CYA which actual helps protect the FC in the pool. Did you test your CYA? You did not indicate how much stabilizer was added (not sure what a bag is). With 33k gals - 10lbs of dry stabilizer would only raise CYA to 35ppm. With a SWCG you should be at 60-70ppm.
So there are 2 possible issues or combined - 1 is algae and other is lack of CYA.
If you have a proper test kit Test Kits Compared you could perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. You would need to turn off your SWCG overnight for the test and test after dark on day 1 and before sunlight on day 2. It would either rule out or confirm the presence of algae.
Nothing you state indicates the SWCG is not producing chlorine. What is the concern is that either algae or UV is consuming chlorine as it is being made by your SWCG. it shows the SWCG is set at 80% but how long are you running your pump to produce chlorine. For example, 33k gals, 80% output for AquaPure 1400 will produce 3.6ppm of FC in 24 hours. So if your pump time is less than 24 hrs the FC production will be less i.e 12hrs is just 1.8ppm. So the FC could easily be consumed by algae or UV. Especially with no CYA.
Are all your tests from pool store? With a TC of 2.4 and FC of 0.3 it shows that your CC is 2.1 (TC=FC+CC). This is an indication of algae growth.
It is also indicated that there is no CYA which actual helps protect the FC in the pool. Did you test your CYA? You did not indicate how much stabilizer was added (not sure what a bag is). With 33k gals - 10lbs of dry stabilizer would only raise CYA to 35ppm. With a SWCG you should be at 60-70ppm.
So there are 2 possible issues or combined - 1 is algae and other is lack of CYA.
If you have a proper test kit Test Kits Compared you could perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. You would need to turn off your SWCG overnight for the test and test after dark on day 1 and before sunlight on day 2. It would either rule out or confirm the presence of algae.
Thank you, very interesting. I have a white plaster pool, so I would think algae would be pretty apparent. The water is clear and I can see the bottom no problem. I was told at the store it was the phosphates but now that they came down with the remover I thought it would all be good. Tests are all from pool store. One 5 min from house uses LaMotte spin with 10 parameters. Based on your recommendation I will be ordering a Taylor test kit. I have gotten 5 lb bag of stabilizer two different times about 1.5 weeks apart when I got water tested. Little change from one test and the next which is beginning to make sense given what you said. I need a lot more CYA that 5 lbs. Pump is single speed 1.5 hp and runs 12 hours, that's what they told me to do when they first started up my pool years ago. While I wait for test kit to come in, I will add the appropriate amount of CYA to get up to what you recommend and report back. Thank you.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 17,047
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I recommend not adding CYA until you get your test kit. If your CYA is high and you added too much, the only way to get it out is to replace water.
The store CYA testing is off enough as to not register what you have already added.
- Jun 7, 2017
- 10,021
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
At the risk of being smacked down by the other site helpers, I am going to suggest you get an aquarium ammonia test kit and test your water for ammonia. That would explain everything. If you have any ammonia at all that is your problem. You can also add a gallon of bleach and test in 15 minutes and see if you get any chlorine at all to register. I do not believe your SWG is not producing chlorine. There is always an error code.
I'll wait till the kit comes in and am able to test.
Actually, this sounds plausible given this article on this site, Ammonia, as it meets all the criteria listed. I'll swing by the pet store today to get a test and report back.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 17,047
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I'll wait till the kit comes in. Hopefully it ships quickly. Thanks.
The test for ammonia was somewhere between 0 and 0.5 on the scale which mean negative from the literature that came with it.
- Jun 7, 2017
- 10,021
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
That's good. With your SWCG constantly producing chlorine, plus what you added, it is also possible that any ammonia was neutralized. Now add a gallon or 2 of chlorine and see if it holds.
Tried 4 little bags of shock last night. Was there an hour later on test strips. No chlorine this morning on my test strips. Nothing really to do until kit comes in now. Stopped at pool store for liquid chlorine when kit comes in. Water test showed phosphates jumped to 3000 from 600 last week. They could not believe it and ran it twice with same result. However accurate their test really is. TC was .45, FC was 0, CYA was 25, Ph was 7.3. Just something to do while I wait. On a side note. Could this discoloration be the algae causing this? Excuse my shaddow.
Attachments
- Jun 7, 2017
- 10,021
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Do another ammonia test and post a pic of the test tube. I want to see how yellow it is.
Local pet store only had strips. Here is the result from right now.
Attachments
If OP is still running pump at 12 hrs and SWCG at 80%, the output is 1.8ppm over 24 hrs.
Assuming the 4 bags are 1 lb each of dichlor that would add 8ppm
So overnight OP lost 8-10 ppm.
Assuming the 4 bags are 1 lb each of dichlor that would add 8ppm
So overnight OP lost 8-10 ppm.
- Jun 7, 2017
- 10,021
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Ah ok. I never trust guess strips. The API aquarium test kit is better maybe you can find that one somewhere? I would keep adding chlorine until it holds.
Thanks for update. So that is producing 3.6ppm over 24 hours. Your CYA is low (per the pool store test) thus UV is consuming FC and you still may have algae.
What % LC did you buy at pool store? Most sell 12.5% whereas Home Depot and Walmart sell 10% LC.
1 gal of 10% will raise FC by 3ppm and 12.5% will raise FC by 3.8. Your SWCG is putting out 3.6ppm
So until your test kit arrives, put at least 1 gal of LC in daily and leave the SWCG on.
I got 3 gallons of 10% LC, was less $. Did an experiment overnight with test strips and SWG running. TC and FC were about 3 last night 30 min after I added the 1 gallon of LC. This morning they were closer in color to 0. While it's just test strips, it seems a lot of loss. Test kit tracking says it should arrive tomorrow so I will get some real numbers then and do a true OCLT.
We finally agree with them.
You can do the FC test right away. Add to 10FC and test 30 mins later. If you hold 80% or more of it, it rules out the ammonia going forward. (It may have been there and neutralized).
Next we run an overnight loss test and if that passes, it's not alage either. Then we do overnight gain test to see what, if any the SWG is producing. If *that* passes, then we bump the CYA.
More than one issue may apply. Either low CYA or the SWG conking out may have given you algae.
So, how much would I need to add to get to 10FC? Would that show up once I put it in the pool math app with the first test I do? I'm guessing I'm going to need a lot more liquid chlorine.We finally agree with them.
You can do the FC test right away. Add to 10FC and test 30 mins later. If you hold 80% or more of it, it rules out the ammonia going forward. (It may have been there and neutralized).
Next we run an overnight loss test and if that passes, it's not alage either. Then we do overnight gain test to see what, if any the SWG is producing. If *that* passes, then we bump the CYA.
More than one issue may apply. Either low CYA or the SWG conking out may have given you algae.