Full System Replacement with Pentair

Mar 25, 2017
127
Austin, TX
So my heater finally died and American home Shield has agreed to give me $600 towards purchasing a new one. Better than a sharp stick. I also need to get a variable speed pump as the the payback is less than 11 months. I would also prefer to have mobile phone-based automation control which would require an upgrade to my existing Jandy 2003 panel. My DE filter looks a little bit long in the tooth as well and so while I'm at it I might as well replace it also. After asking some questions and doing some research I've come up with the following list of replacement parts. I would welcome any feedback that you have and/or suggestions. I have read quite a bit about what others have done, the filter decision, etc.

Here is the list of parts to purchase.


  • Sku #: EKIT-011018 Intelliflo Variable Speed Pool Pump w/ Unions + 2 White VS Return Jets
  • Sku #: Clean and Clear Plus CCP520 Cartridge 520 sq. ft. In Ground Pool Filter
  • Sku #: 460805 MasterTemp, Low NOx, 400,000 BTU, Natural Gas, Heavy Duty, Cupro-Nickel, Pool and Spa Heater
  • Sku #: 520545 EasyTouch 8 Function Control Pool/Spa Combo with IC40
  • Sku #: 522104 ScreenLogic Interface and Wireless Connection Kit Bundle
  • Sku #: 4717 NeverLube Three Port Valve 2in.-2 1/2in. Positive Seal


Total costs is about $6,500.

American home Shield just paid $1300 to have a brand-new Jandy SWG 1400 installed less than a month ago. I can always list it here or put it on eBay and make $.75 on the dollar.

Am I missing anything or should I consider something else? Also any additional parts aside from PVC joints that I need to complete this DIY?

Thanks!

Ryan
 
Jim,

Thank for the feedback! I was speaking with a sales person at PoolSupplyWorld to collaborate on the equipment. I also suggested the IC60 as I would prefer to run the system less. They were having a sales on the Inttelitouch 8 + IC40. The price difference between the two was pretty high so he suggested the IC40. The link you listed for the IC60 is more cost effective. In PSW's defense he agreed to provide more competitive pricing once I committed to all the parts.

Ryan
 
Ryan,

With a variable speed pump, it is not a big a factor, but with an IC40 you will have to run a long time to generate the chlorine you will need. You will just use up the cell faster.

I only have a 17K pool, and this time of year I am running at 45% 24/7...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I am in the midst of or in my parts online and just wanted to ask a few quick questions in regards to additional parts that I will need or should consider replacing while I'm replacing the PVC pipe and the equipment.



  • Should I consider changing all of the ball valves while I have the PVC apart? If so do you recommend the Jandy no lube valves or is there something less expensive?
  • I noticed that from the heater there is a one direction flow coupler. Do I need to buy one of these? If so any recommendation?
  • I am switching to a cartridge filter so are there other couplers that I need to purchase so that I can attach the PVC to the filter?
  • I am switching to a variable speed pump are there other couplers that I need to purchase so that I can attach the PVC aside from the specified couplers for the Pentair variable speed pump?
  • I also noticed that there is a drain valve for a hose where the PVC comes out of the existing pump to go to the filter. Please see in photo. Do I need to plumb one of these in?
  • Should I purchase new breakers for the panel?
  • Should I replace the wire whips while I am at it?

Am I forgetting anything?

Thanks!

Ryan
 

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I am in the midst of or in my parts online and just wanted to ask a few quick questions in regards to additional parts that I will need or should consider replacing while I'm replacing the PVC pipe and the equipment.


  • Should I consider changing all of the ball valves while I have the PVC apart? If so do you recommend the Jandy no lube valves or is there something less expensive?
    I would.. I am not a fan of ball valves.. Jandy is the best option.
  • I noticed that from the heater there is a one direction flow coupler. Do I need to buy one of these? If so any recommendation?
    I am not sure why the check valve is there? If just to keep excessive chlorine out of the heater, it is not needed when using a SWCG.
  • I am switching to a cartridge filter so are there other couplers that I need to purchase so that I can attach the PVC to the filter?
    With a cartridge filter, you will not have the multiport valve... The filter comes with the adapters needed to connect it.
  • I am switching to a variable speed pump are there other couplers that I need to purchase so that I can attach the PVC aside from the specified couplers for the Pentair variable speed pump?
    You just need to make sure you get "pump unions" that are for the IntelliFlo... the unions on the pump you have now are not the right kind.
  • I also noticed that there is a drain valve for a hose where the PVC comes out of the existing pump to go to the filter. Please see in photo. Do I need to plumb one of these in?
    You do not "need" the drain.
  • Should I purchase new breakers for the panel?
    I would not unless they were not the right size. The IntelliFlo needs to be a GFCI breaker.
  • Should I replace the wire whips while I am at it?
    I would but because if I went to all the work to make my pad look good, I would not want to see the old whips.. But that is just me and not a requirement.

Am I forgetting anything?

Thanks!

Ryan

My answers in RED above..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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Thank you again for all of the suggestions. Here is the new setup!!
IMG_2587.jpg

Works great. Called Pentair this morning and the tech was a rockstar! The system got properly config'ed and is now working like a charm.

The installed said that I needed a check valve behind the SWG to keep that water out of the heater. Any opinions?

Thank you all again! I have a 1 month old PCL1400 Jandy Salt Cell for sale now if anyone is looking.

Ryan
 
The installed said that I needed a check valve behind the SWG to keep that water out of the heater. Any opinions?

Not needed. Actually messes up your flow regime into the SWCG and takes a higher flow rate to close the flow switch.

If you are concerned, just enable DELAY on your EasyTouch and your pump will run a few minutes after your SWCG shuts down.

Update your signature when you can -- still shows the Jandy equipment.

Take care.
 
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