Flow Valve

JPMorgan

Gold Supporter
May 22, 2018
885
Elmhurst, IL
Pool Size
60000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
We have a flow valve on our HOA pool that needs repair or replacement. The red plastic "pea" is sitting at the bottom of the cylinder when the pump is running. Our pool company quoted us $450 to fix this. That seems high to me. The part is around $120. Is this really going to take a couple hours to fix? It looks pretty simple to me. Is this something I could consider tackling myself? How do you clean a flow valve.... or should I just plan on replacing it? Anything difficult about this or is it a pretty straightforward job? Thanks for your help.

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Check with the entity that oversees commercial/public pools in your area and ask if a flow gauge/meter is required or not. Being an HOA pool, it is most likely regulated as a public pool.

From your pic, it appears to be held in place with two hose clamps - but there is probably an oring or rubber washer under it to seal between the hole in tbe PVC pipe and the existing flow gauge.
 
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I have a similar meter. $450 is a lot. Unless the pipe is damaged, putting on a new one will be a 5-minute job. Remove the two clamps, place the new one, put clamps back on.

The old one may just need a cleaning. The passages are pretty small. Mine clogs every few months. The "pill" jams or sinks to the bottom just like yours. I remove the little plug at the top while the pump is on. This breaks the clog, and the indicator "pill" shoots outs into my hand.

That red stuff is a hint of previous leaks. Maybe it's the clog?

It's true there's a rubber gasket in there. It might tear further if you try to disassemble for more detailed cleaning. Any kind of sheet rubber should serve to make a new one.
 
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Its a simple replacement. Unscrew the hose clamps reseat with new gasket.

The cap on top is designed to be threaded open to flush out the flowmeter. Debris will clog it and cause it not to function, flush it first and it will likely fix your issue. Be careful when flushing it as you can blow the red indicator out the top.

Edited to add: to make flushing easier if you need to do it frequently, we’d buy a new plug for the top and drill it open. Then attach a length of 1/4 inch vinyl tubing (or whatever size fits) 6-12 inches long with a zip tie and curve towards the floor. When you need to flush, install your adapter, flush it then replace with the original cap.
 
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That red stuff is a hint of previous leaks. Maybe it's the clog?
I beleive that red stuff is just some type of spray sealant that the pool guy uses. Thanks for the info.... think I will try to clean it. The pool is shut down now and the pump is off, so I won't be able to flush the valve the way you described. Would it be best to just remove it and flush it with water?
 
Its a simple replacement. Unscrew the hose clamps reseat with new gasket.

The cap on top is designed to be threaded open to flush out the flowmeter. Debris will clog it and cause it not to function, flush it first and it will likely fix your issue. Be careful when flushing it as you can blow the red indicator out the top.

Edited to add: to make flushing easier if you need to do it frequently, we’d buy a new plug for the top and drill it open. Then attach a length of 1/4 inch vinyl tubing (or whatever size fits) 6-12 inches long with a zip tie and curve towards the floor. When you need to flush, install your adapter, flush it then replace with the original cap.
Sounds like the flushing you describe is the same as what generessler advised. Could I just hold my hand over the top of the tube as I remove the cap to allow water to flush through the tube (while keeping the red indicator in the tube at the same time)? If the indicator pops out, I assume I can just shut the pump off, put the indicator back in, put the cap back on, then start the pump. Right? Sounds like this is best done next spring when we open the pool rather than trying to dissasemble the thing to flush it out.
 
What do you all think of removing the cap while the pump is turned off (since it is shut down now) and taking a vacuum cleaner and vacuuming the flow meter (using a very small crevice tool)? I know I don't want to suck that indicator into the vacuum, but if I do and the vacuum is empty, I could just open the vacuum and retrieve it to put it back in. Thoughts about this approach?
 
I would follow generessler advice. He has the experience.
Whoever quoted your $450 for what is likely a $0.50 o-ring/gasket and five minutes of work would never get a call from me again.
 

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What do you all think of removing the cap while the pump is turned off (since it is shut down now) and taking a vacuum cleaner and vacuuming the flow meter (using a very small crevice tool)? I know I don't want to suck that indicator into the vacuum, but if I do and the vacuum is empty, I could just open the vacuum and retrieve it to put it back in. Thoughts about this approach?
You can crack open the cap without fully removing it fully to flush the meter. The problem that can sometimes happen is that granular debris is below the indicator and won’t flush out fully. You can try to vac it out, but the easiest is to do it with the pump running and just be careful to keep an eye on the indicator and not lose it. In some setups, there’s a metering valve in the line that allows you to slow down the flow rate in the pipe, but not seeing your setup, the valve may or may not be there.

No need to wait until the spring really, it’s not a difficult job. Just be careful and pay attention to where the indicator ends up.
 
Reme
Sounds like the flushing you describe is the same as what generessler advised. Could I just hold my hand over the top of the tube as I remove the cap to allow water to flush through the tube (while keeping the red indicator in the tube at the same time)? If the indicator pops out, I assume I can just shut the pump off, put the indicator back in, put the cap back on, then start the pump. Right? Sounds like this is best done next spring when we open the pool rather than trying to dissasemble the thing to flush it out.
I've done this twice. Once it was enough to remove the plug and keep the pill from popping out with fingers while the water streamed through. The other I let the pill out so the water was full force for a few seconds. I didn't stop the pump. Just pushed the pill back in and replaced the plug. I did get a little wet. At 10psi, the force on the pill works out to half a pound. It's not a big deal.
 
Thanks to all for the advice and tips. Our system is shut down now, so I will have to try to fix this next spring. Will try tapping on the sides of the flow meter first with a screw driver (JamesW) as that seems to be the simplest fix if it works. If not, then will remove the cap and let water flow through the tube to see if that unclogs it. Worst case scenario... I have to take it off to loosen the indicator in the tube or replace it with a new one. Feel pretty confident I can handle it now. Thanks again.
 
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It's way easier to remove than you are thinking.

Loosen the clamps and push them to the side and it will come right off.

It literally takes less than 15 seconds.

Turn it upside down and tap on it or remove the plug and rinse it out.

Reinstall the plug with a little bit of Teflon or sealant to make it watertight.

Clean the pipe and gasket and reinstall in the same direction and tighten the clamps.
 
So.... I took the flow valve off today. Took the cap off and flushed out the tube. The "pea" seems to be moving freely now. Just have to reinstall. Assuming it works (won't know until we open the pool) it took me about 15 minutes. Easy peasy! Before I re-install it, I'm going to take the flow meter to a Board meeting this week and let them know the pool company wanted to charge us $450 for this repair. This is something they could have easily addressed during one of their routine maintenance visits. Mind you..... we have been their customer for 4 years and this is what we get from them! No wonder pool companies have a bad reputation. The real challenge is finding a good one that you can trust.
 
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In Dallas half the town have flow meters that don't. They get stuck when you turn a pool off for whatever period of time. They are required by the state on commercial pools. HOA are commercial pools. If your not sure what pool is commercial just look for depth markers along the tile line of the pool, no diving signs, emergency signs, etc. Which is why pool comp charge a little more for some stuff. $400 dollars to replace a $90 flow meter? My god I'm not charging enough. Me, $125 for the part and $125 for the labor. Your pool company may be ripping you off on some repairs. BUT keep in mind They are the ones dealing with the inspectors that enforce the codes in your area. They might not catch little things like that flow meter on weekly visits but they will catch that before the pool reopens, or before an inspection. When we shut a pool down for a replaster , you would be surprised at what does not work that did before when we fill them back up and get them running again. They guy that's cleaning your pool might only have vague experience in commercial properties, or none at all.

I'm not defending anyone just remember I visit a lot of our properties doing things I do not get paid for. Following up on really minor stuff, a walk through for a owners visit, inspection days, every time a breaker or GFCI gets tripped not something isn't working etc. Every day. Part of doing business. But that's ok, I'll make that up later on some repairs. my 2 cents
 
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We have a flow valve on our HOA pool that needs repair or replacement. The red plastic "pea" is sitting at the bottom of the cylinder when the pump is running. Our pool company quoted us $450 to fix this. That seems high to me. The part is around $120. Is this really going to take a couple hours to fix? It looks pretty simple to me. Is this something I could consider tackling myself? How do you clean a flow valve.... or should I just plan on replacing it? Anything difficult about this or is it a pretty straightforward job? Thanks for your help.

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Try removing the hose clamps, carefully pull the flow meter from the pipe, carefully remove the red plug, invert the meter to shake the indicator out. It looks to have a bit of debris caught in the tube. Run a bit of water down the tube to clean it out, replace the indicator and plug. If you have a bit of silicone sealant, use it to help re-seal the casket and reinstall the meter facing the proper direction (arrow). Whole job should take 15 minutes and may say a few hundred dollars.

Or, just purchase a new one and call it good. Be sure to get one that is for the pipe you have, they come in different sizes.
 

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