Flow Meter thoughts

[IUsedToSail]

I need to replumb part of my pad in order to install my new cartridge filter. I'm going to add a three valve to bypass my heater, a check valve behind the heater return to protect from the SWCG, and intended to add the flow meter below. After looking playing with the flow meter I'm a little concerned that it is going to be fairly restrictive and needlessly restrict flow. I spent a lot of time and effort switching the pad over to 2" pipes and removing the 489 bends of creativity the previous owner installed.

Thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SAP7SX4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[Jimrahbe]

I,

In most cases there is just no need for a flow meter. And there is no reason to have a check valve to protect the heater from a SWCG. The check valve is only needed if you have a Chlorine tablet feeder. It is impossible for a SWCG to harm the heater.

Why do you think you need a flow meter???

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

Answers to that question on the Amazon site are:

According to their literature on their website, which does not refer to head pressure, but rather breaks it down in wattage for a 2HP 3 phase pump:

The average additional power required is just 0.8 watts
Example: From the above data, the number of hours required to use 1 kW = 1,250 (1,000 / 0.8)
At $0.10 per kWh and a pool pump running 12 hours per day for 365 days per year, the FlowVisTM will result in an additional cost of $0.35 per year to run the pump.

go to the manufacturer web site and look at the product manual. It is easy to find. there is a head loss chart by model and flow rate.

Blog 2 — H2Flow Controls

www.h2flow.net

There is a bunch of information on head loss there, looks to be about 4' at 100gpm. They have a sheet detailing the cost increase over a year, but it's with a 3 phase pump.

Advise you look at FlowVis — H2flow Controls, the website for the manufacturer view the specs. I believe the head loss is around 2%.

No, this is a Praher check valve with an indicator pretty much. Its rated about the exact same as a normal check valve.

 

[IUsedToSail]

I,

In most cases there is just no need for a flow meter. And there is no reason to have a check valve to protect the heater from a SWCG. The check valve is only needed if you have a Chlorine tablet feeder. It is impossible for a SWCG to harm the heater.

Why do you think you need a flow meter???

Thanks,

Jim R.

The flow meter was really to satisfy my curiosity around how the system is performing. It seems I'm trying to add stuff that isn't needed. I think I'll return the flow meter.

I have a CORE-45 SWG generator, I thought the installation instructions recommended a check valve to protect the heater. I'll go double check it.

thanks!

 

[ajw22]

I have a CORE-45 SWG generator, I thought the installation instructions recommended a check valve to protect the heater. I'll go double check it.

They do but we don't agree with the need for a CV.

However you said you were putting in a heater bypass and you need the CV as part of the heater bypass.

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Jimrahbe]

I,

When the pump shuts off, a tab feeder can let very low pH water to flow backwards into the heater. This basically eats the heater's insides.

If you have a SWCG, there is nothing to flow back into the heater.

Jim R.

 

[IUsedToSail]

I,

When the pump shuts off, a tab feeder can let very low pH water to flow backwards into the heater. This basically eats the heater's insides.

If you have a SWCG, there is nothing to flow back into the heater.

Jim R.

Got it, that makes sense!

I'm the pool equipment repairman, pool boy, landscaper, and resident mason this week. :-D

 

[IUsedToSail]

I,

When the pump shuts off, a tab feeder can let very low pH water to flow backwards into the heater. This basically eats the heater's insides.

If you have a SWCG, there is nothing to flow back into the heater.

Jim R.

I was just outside looking at it and this ^^^^^ was my next question-

Not sure I understand WHY I need a check valve but I'll just go with it.... or is the system just more efficient with a CV?

 

[IUsedToSail]

My other project this week is to convert a former 1.5" line for an old vacuum system to a return

 

[generessler]

I need to replumb part of my pad in order to install my new cartridge filter. I'm going to add a three valve to bypass my heater, a check valve behind the heater return to protect from the SWCG, and intended to add the flow meter below. After looking playing with the flow meter I'm a little concerned that it is going to be fairly restrictive and needlessly restrict flow. I spent a lot of time and effort switching the pad over to 2" pipes and removing the 489 bends of creativity the previous owner installed.

Thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SAP7SX4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Congrats on the re-plumbing.

I just added one of these because I'm switching from a 1.5 hp single speed to VS Intelliflo pump in a couple of weeks and wanted to understand what the "before" and "after" flows are. It's been pretty educational. I'm glad I spent the bucks. The install was super easy.

What did I learn? I was surprised at the rate overall - a bit over 100 gpm - and also how much it goes down with comparatively little junk in the pump basket - 40 gpm with just a few spring tree blossoms blocking the part of the basket immediately in front of the diffuser.

On the need for the check valve behind the heater, my Mastertemp 400 manual says it's important. This guy has run a pool-building and service company for decades and repeats over and over in his videos the importance of a check valve between SWG or chlorinator and heater. Seems like cheap insurance.

The gauge you linked to is a calibrated check valve. With that you should be able to get a 2-fer. I thought about that one, too. It seems to get high marks for accuracy and ruggedness. But I don't need another check valve, and the one I used required no gluing or cutting. Just a 5/8" hole.