Florida Keys OB pool build. Mud bed.

[setsailsoon]

Small update on the pool. I was able to get the plumbing done. The jet venturi manifold for the bench took an embarrassing amount of time for me to build but I'm pretty happy with the end result. I'm trying to use my jets without a blower. The vertical pipe which is capped off will be a Hartford loop. I'm not quite sure yet where the intake will be yet so it's just a capped riser. The goal is to hide it with landscaping. I'm using the Intelliflo 3 pump w/ relays (011078) so I can have semi automation. My setup is pretty simple....no spa or heater.

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I have a question on my plumbing. My MD is 2.5". Should I keep it at 2.5" all the way to the pump inlet. I have to T the other 2 -2" intakes (vac and skimmer) into this branch as well. The other option is to reduce it to 2" at the upright 90 and that way everything is at 2" approaching pump (pic below for that setup). Not sure if that would reduce flow too much. I will be using a 2 way valve for each line. Below is a pic of the second option and my plan on plumbing layout.
Thx
View attachment 557818

JM,
Great progress and thanks for the update. I'm following closely since I'm only a few weeks behind you with my Palm City pool.

On your question about pipe diameter the suction line size is very important to get right. If you look over at my thread (I'll edit and provide link later) @JamesW was kind enough to give me a lot of very specific information. The answer is really specific to your pool and depends much on the distance to suction point plus ft of head loss compared to the pump spec. For most pools that I've seen 21/2" is very common but in my case it's 3" for each of the two separate drains. And if they are joined at the pool I'll need to go up to 4". I have much larger flow than most pools because of the zero edge and infinity wall though. So it's best to check the hydraulics for your situation. I think there's a wiki to guide you through this.

Thanks again for your updates.

Chris

 

[ajw22]

I have a question on my plumbing. My MD is 2.5". Should I keep it at 2.5" all the way to the pump inlet. I have to T the other 2 -2" intakes (vac and skimmer) into this branch as well. The other option is to reduce it to 2" at the upright 90 and that way everything is at 2" approaching pump (pic below for that setup). Not sure if that would reduce flow too much. I will be using a 2 way valve for each line.

It is not going to make a big difference. Do it either way.

You should be drawing more flow from your skimmers then from your main drain.

How many skimmers will you have?

I would align the inlet pipe to the pump with the middle pipe and make the skimmer the middle pipe into the trident.

 

[Jm13004]

Allen,
Thanks for the feedback. I only have one skimmer (earlier pic of manifold). My skimmer is the middle pipe so the trident plumbing layout will work perfect. Since it won't matter, I'll reduce from 2.5" to 2" at the vertical 90 like the photo above.

 

[Jm13004]

Setsail,
Thanks for the info. Your pool is looking great......your organizational skills are next level. LOL. I think I'm good on the hydraulic calcs regarding line sizes to and from pool, I was just concerned about the upright 90 at the pump pad. Mas985 was a big help on questions regarding my jets/flow rates when I was designing pool.
For folks that are designing jets into their pool/spa project, I found this video particularly informative on the importance of proper pipe sizing for jets.

 

[setsailsoon]

Setsail,
Thanks for the info. Your pool is looking great......your organizational skills are next level. LOL. I think I'm good on the hydraulic calcs regarding line sizes to and from pool, I was just concerned about the upright 90 at the pump pad. Mas985 was a big help on questions regarding my jets/flow rates when I was designing pool.
For folks that are designing jets into their pool/spa project, I found this video particularly informative on the importance of proper pipe sizing for jets.

Thank you much for the video. Pretty interesting see how they actually work. Hope all continues to go very well with your pool.

 

[Jm13004]

Another small update. After plumbing and electrical, I began preparing pool for tile. When using Laticrete's mortar bed and cementitious membrane, you have to wait 72 hours for the mortar to cure before waterproofing. Needless to say, this threw a hitch in my tile plans......all of the tile guys I tried to use are a few hours distance and did not want to wait the 72 hours. Most of them didn't even use waterproofing. I decided to do the mud bed and waterproofing myself. I had to do it in two steps to complete the vertical and horizontal surfaces. I did the top of the beam now so that all I have to do is thinset my coping and it should be very easy to keep level around pool. I still need to do the bench seat and strips on the steps but that won't take long. I'm going to apply the waterproofing the day before tile work begins. I'm still not sure if I'm going to do tile or sub it out.

 

[Divin Dave]

What would you suggest? My pool is 5500 gallons. The Pentair CC200 is rated at 154 GPM. My jets full bore will be around 60 GPM.

If your budget can handle the extra cost, I fully agree with ajw. You will never regret having a large filter but you very well might regret the smaller one.

Mine is a massive 420 on 13000 gallons and I only have to clean it once a year.

Its all exciting when you have a new pool and you love learning and doing maintenance, but after a couple of years man, cleaning filter becomes a real drag. I'm lazy, so maybe it's just me though!

 

[Jm13004]

Dave,
Thanks for the feedback. I know bigger is better but I'm keeping the filter. I called Polytec and they were positive this filter could easily handle my pool. If I was starting from scratch, I would get the ccp 240 but I think I'll be OK.

 

[Jm13004]

I little update on the pool. I was able get the tile/coping installed. Came out pretty good....the guys worked hard. Hope the waterproofing makes a difference......nobody does it down here.
I used Advanced Pavers Shellock for my coping. Happy with it.

I did the pavers/ step stones myself. I've had these sitting on a pallet for over a year on the side of the house.....they look like limestone but they are a cement based product. I filled the gaps with limestone #57 gravel which is a staple in the Keys LOL. I know this decking isn't going to appeal to everyone but we like it and it cost me nothing . Simple and clean. The other 2 side of the pool will have landscaping .

I'm using SGM River Rock for the finish which will be done next Tuesday. I still need to finish up some electrical, plumbing, and get the pool interior prepped. I hope it goes well. I just received my test kit so I'll test my tap water.
Gonna try and do bicarb start up. Didn't realize how important the first 30 days was for the plaster.

 

[kimkats]

So long as you don't have any small kids that like to throw thing like rocks your decking should be fine. It sure looks good!

LOVE the tile work! I hope it looks as good up close as it does in the pics! LOVE the color of it

 

[setsailsoon]

Thanks for the update JM. Nice clean look and probably at a pretty good price. I used number 57 for a lot of different applications on the house construct also did the pool base with that. With my soft sand soil I will probably need to use 4" fine crushed concrete base for the pavers.

Chris

 

[Jm13004]

Thanks KitKat!
Chris, Thanks for the compliment. Your project is looking awesome!

I'm getting ready to finish pool this Tuesday so I checked my tap/fill water with the TF100 kit.....
TA-60
CH-100
Temp-75
PH-8.2

I'm showing a CSI of .21 on Pool Math. Is this OK? What should I aim for once pool is filled?
Thx

 

[setsailsoon]

JM,

I'm learning all about this myself as I hope to be adding water around May 1st. But mine is way more complicated since it's well water and kind of "difficult" well water. I'd suggest your read everything you can in our Wiki on starting new plaster here. This page is a great place to start and gives high level summaries of the different approaches. One thing you'll need is some phosphate sequestrant like Pro Team. It's used to tie up any tiny amounts of iron or other metals that can cause stains in new plaster that are very hard to remove. We have several experts that know all about start up including @onBalance , @JoyfulNoise @JamesW @ajw22 . I'd rather defer to them since I'm still learning about this. I'm likely to take a "belts and suspenders" approach with my well water. I've never been able to detect any iron or manganese but I don't want to take any chances so I plan to run through an air inject filter to remove sulfur then through KDF 85 and GAC or Catalytic Carbon. Don't really need to remove the sulfur but I have so much in the raw water that I'm afraid it will quickly saturate the KDF85 plus carbon and it won't be able to get the metals... I'm still working on best way to do this so that's latest thinking. My guess is if you're on city water you'll be good with the normal startup process described in the Wiki.

Good luck and keep us posted. I can't wait to be where you are!

Chris