Flakes in Returns but CH low . . . Help

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I have the the TF 100 test kit. The pH test in that kit is the "daily test where the pH is the red dye on the right side of the two tube test with yellow/CH on the other side." Is this the only pH test I need to establish what I need to do to adjust CSI to get to a negative number and stop making so may calcium flakes in the returns?
 
There is only 1 pH test.
When you test EVERYTHING and plug it into PoolMath, it will calculate the CSI. You can play with the various numbers to see how they impact the CSI result. pH is the largest player.
This might be easier to play with on the website version of PoolMath: PoolMath
 
Inputting your data in the above post (how did CH drop?) and guessing a water temperature of 70F (that is needed) your CSI is -0.2. You will get some flakes, but not many. Use PoolMath.

I find if my TA is above 90ppm, with most any other readings, my SWCG creates some flakes of calcium carbonate.
 
Good Q on the CH drop. Dunno. Those were the numbers yesterday. I'll repeat tonight to be sure.

Flakes are less than last year. But still too many. CSI says I'm +.03.

Do you see any problems with my plan of attack to add cyrannic acid, calcium carbonate and muratic acid as prescribed above? My goal would be to drop pH to 7.0-7.2 to lower TA and simultaneously deal w/ CYA and CH. Am I good to go?
 
Yes you need to add CYA. No you do not need to add CH as that will just raise the CSI.

If you keep lowing the pH down to the low 7s when after it rises back up, the TA should slowly go down and help balance your CSI.

My CH is on the low side too, but I keep the CSI balanced by maintaining the pH on the higher side. I think my TA is around 90ppm right now and CH about 250ppm.
 
jblizzle said:
Yes you need to add CYA. No you do not need to add CH as that will just raise the CSI.

If you keep lowing the pH down to the low 7s when after it rises back up, the TA should slowly go down and help balance your CSI.

My CH is on the low side too, but I keep the CSI balanced by maintaining the pH on the higher side. I think my TA is around 90ppm right now and CH about 250ppm.
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Thanks, I will hold off on adding any CH at this time.
 
Well, just looked at your location. CT is very different than AZ. I don't get rain (0 CH) but a lot of evaporation, so my CH will always be climbing.
You may get more rain than evaporation, so your CH could actually drop. Keep and eye on it, I don't think I would want to let it drop below 200ppm in a pebble pool.
 

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I expect bathers in the pool today. Will the swimming aerate the pool and drop the TA? Should I adjust the pH with more Muratic Acid to bring the pH to 7.0 to drive TA lower?

Pool Math says to add CH - should I?

Salt level says drain 2/3 of the pool water and start over . . . what harm am I causing with the elevated salt level?
 
Be sure you have your pool properly set up for PoolMath. Are you using the app or webpage?
TA drops from adding acid. pH rises from aeration.
PoolMath makes suggestions based on mid point of the recommended range for the pool type you set it up for. So if the CH you show is in range, no worries.

250 ppm CH is the lowest level we recommend for plaster pools, with the caveat that areas with very high CH fill water we tend to suggest just waiting for the CH to rise due to fill water additions.
 
I am using PoolMath and this shows the lower end of the range for CH is 350. Range is 350-450 w/ a 400 target. If 250 is OK, I'll pause.

I agree that aeration raises pH and Muriatic Acid lowers it. Should I lower my pH to 7.0 from 7.2 to drive TA lower is my question?

Can I ignore the 3000 salt level vs. goal of 1000? Is it causing harm?
 
Be sure you set up your pool in the area towards the bottom of the page. Use TroubleFreePool, SWCG, and Plaster.

You are correct on the CH range. We are in discussions now on those. But if you keep your CSI in range, no issues.

Your current CSI is OK though I cannot say what is exactly without a water temperature.

Your salt is fine, you have a SWCG.
 
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