First time pool owners, new build

Icemodeled

Member
Jul 6, 2019
7
SW Florida
Hello! I have been researching and continue to return to this site with all the info it provides. Read through the Pool School section and have learned so much in last several days. We are brand new pool owners. Live in SW Florida. Will use the pool year round. This is a new build, plaster finish, 12x24 kidney shape, 9000gal, 3ft to 5ft depth, no SWG. Pool filled with water first time right after plaster coating was done on 7/1/19. Builder company returned the next day and started up the pool. We were not home, so not sure what all they did. We do know they started up the pump and dumped in 4gal of acid after we asked if it was ready for swimming. He said no, wait 2 days and take the water sample to Leslie’s and follow their instructions. We did as told and brought in sample. Leslie’s pool supply tested and said it was still to acidic for swimming and wait another 2 days. We returned to them yesterday and had it tested again(attaching the results). Told everything was great and just needed to get chlorine in. He recommended to shock the pool(said we could then swim after waiting one hour after shocking), buy a 20# bucket of chlorine tablets(put 2 in automatic chlorinator same day) and retest in a week. He also sold us on buying Triple Action Perfect Weekly, said it will help preserve equipment. We purchased everything. Came home and shocked the pool and added a cap full of the Triple Action. We did not open up the chlorine tablets yet.

So now after doing some of my own research I am somewhat regretting the choices made. After learning about the tablets and them containing CYA we are not wanting to use them. We have no intention of ever draining our pool, we will use it year round in Florida. I’m worried as the tabs increase CYA over time and only option to lower is to reduce the water and replace.

First thing, we will get a good test kit ordered! Probably will go with the TF100 kit as it seems to be best recommended. This will be ordered today. My issue is.. what do we do in the meantime? Return the tablets and get.. liquid chlorine? Without a good accurate test kit how do we know how much to add and how often? Since we shocked the pool yesterday, can we wait a bit to add more chlorine? All we have right now are crappy to read test strips our pool build company gave us. Other then that we can only test at Leslie’s.

So based on our test results yesterday and what we have done since(shocking pool), what would you all recommend us do until our good test kit gets here?

Any input would be helpful including any other tips or ideas, anything we’re doing wrong etc. We are feeling a bit overwhelmed as we spent a LOT of money having this pool built, we want to take care of it properly and safely. Thinking to return the tablets and try and return the Perfect Weekly as I don’t think it’s needed. Not sure if I can return though since we opened the Perfect weekly. If not least I’ll return the tablets.

Attached 3 photos, showing pool, equipment and yesterday’s test results.
Pump is running 8-9 hours a day, this is what the builders set it to when they did the start up.
 

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Yes if you can return all the stuff you bought that will pay for the test kit alone. You only need to have Bleach, Muratic Acid and CYA. You can find them in any HD,Lowes, WM. Make sure you get fresh stuff, look at the date on the bottles. You have arrived at TFP at the right time, no need to panic. Also download the PoolMath App, this will help you a lot, also get the speedstir makes testing fun and easy.
 
Welcome to TFP.

Order the TF-100 Test Kits

We don’t believe pool store test results but what you posted says CYA is already too high.

Go buy liquid chlorine at Walmart or HD. You can also get some Muriatic Acid to lower your pH when necessary. Look for


Download PoolMath and use it to record your test results and calculate chemical doses.

Add 3 ppm of CL based on PoolMath and then 3 ppm a day until you get your test kit.

Read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Read Start-up New Plaster - Trouble Free Pool and https://www.nptpool.com/pdf/npc_swimmingpoolstart-upprocedures.pdf

Once you get your test kit post your test results and we can talk more.
 
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Flying Tivo- home from Leslie’s, couldn’t return anything.. oh well lesson learned. Downloaded the poolmath app and purchased the TF100 plus speedstir. Hopefully won’t be to long before it arrives. Thanks for the info!

Welcome to TFP.

Order the TF-100 Test Kits

We don’t believe pool store test results but what you posted says CYA is already too high.

Go buy liquid chlorine at Walmart or HD. You can also get some Muriatic Acid to lower your pH when necessary. Look for


Download PoolMath and use it to record your test results and calculate chemical doses.

Add 3 ppm of CL based on PoolMath and then 3 ppm a day until you get your test kit.

Read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Read Start-up New Plaster - Trouble Free Pool and https://www.nptpool.com/pdf/npc_swimmingpoolstart-upprocedures.pdf

Once you get your test kit post your test results and we can talk more.

Thanks for all the info! Got the TF100 ordered today. I am really hoping that the pool supply store test results were not accurate and our CYA is lower then it shows. Will find out once the kit arrives. Went to Walmart and picked up the liquid chlorine you suggested. Added it into pool today and will do 3ppm daily until we get our kit. I will check out the links posted and put the results up once we have them. Thanks so much!
 
We got our TF100 test kit and we tested everything, here are the results

Chlorine 15 (we put about a gallon in prior to testing to bring it up. Our target according to the CYA chart here is a range of 7-12)
CC 0
PH 8.2-8.4
TA 80
CYA 90
CH ? We did the test but it took forever to turn blue. 20 some drops and would come to 750.. maybe we did the test wrong(we tried another suggestion doing that test as well with similar result). Pool stores all got ranges of 250-350.
Water is beautiful, very clear looking(want to keep it that way)

Here are some concerns:
*So our chlorine the next day dropped to 5.5! That is a huge loss in one day.. our PH is all over the place but staying quite high around 8.2-8.5. We add Muriatic acid but it goes right back up. From what I’ve seen this could just be because it’s a new pool? Built and filled 2 weeks ago, plaster. We brush it daily and it sheds a LOT of dust. I guess we just keep adding chlorine and acid as needed. Is 8.2-8.5 dangerous to keep it at, don’t want to cause any damage to pool itself or be unsafe for us to swim.

* other concern is our high CYA. Figured would be high as it has been at all pool stores(they ranged from 80-100) we never added any CYA so this was whatever the builders added 2 weeks ago. I called the company about the high CYA and the owner said to give it another week, it should settle down? I told him ok and plan to call after the week is up if still high. Will we have to drain some water and replace? Thing is, they told us the new plaster cannot dry out, so draining would be an issue right now. We then though about just diluting it, put the hose in and let it run. Will overflow the pool but drain out and hopefully knock down the CYA a good bit. Any thoughts on what we should do?

With it being a brand new built pool and the plaster still curing, we don’t want to do anything to harm that process. Any advice in general would be great relating to our test results. Testing each day it seems the numbers are bouncing around a good bit but the pool seems to be a chlorine and acid hog currently.
 
Start using PoolMath and logging your tests and sharing them. Let PoolMath calculate the Calcium Saturation Index (CSI) - Trouble Free Pool . CSI for new plaster should be positive around +0.5 for the first 30 days for best curing.

Rapidly rising pH is what new plaster does. Keep knocking it down into the 7's. But not too low that it takes your CSI negative. pH of 7.6 - 7.8 is fine. You can swim with pH of 8.2-8.5. It is not dangerous.

@mknauss can give you the water exchange method for getting fresh water into the pool to lower CYA without draining.

Your PB is not following the typical plaster startup recommendations with high CYA and CL. See


Keep brushing and lowering pH and keeping FC up.
 
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You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
 
The pH test isn't useful if FC is above 10 - don't add acid now based on what it says. Retest when your FC goes below 10.

This is a moot point if you're exchanging water, but thought I'd mention it for later reference. :)
 
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