First Time Pool Owner

[Hdwainwright]

Hi! I’m totally new to all of this. My husband and I bought a new (to us) house a few months ago and it has a big pool! We’re excited! We’re also clueless! I was just bumming around the internet, trying to be less ignorant and ran across this little slice of heaven.

I’ve been reading Pool School and the Forums for 2 days and I have so much confidence that we’re going to have a trouble free summer. Last years’ test kits I found in the shed are in the trash and the fancy-schmancy one will be in tomorrow. Sams Club size packs of bleach, borax and baking soda should be in tomorrow also. Let’s do this!

Thank you all for creating and being a part of a place like this!

 

[Jimrahbe]

H,

Did you get the message that I moved your original post about the adding s SWCG to here... Questions about adding a SWG Oops.. sorry, it was not you.. Jim R.,

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to the best place about learning how to care for a pool.

I would get a TF-100 Test Kits and Speedstir Magnetic Stirrer and test the pool water before loading up on borax and baking soda.

 

[Jimrahbe]

H,

I agree with Allen... After you get your new test kit, post the results here before buying any Borax or Baking soda..

I have not yet needed to add either to my pool..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Now the fun starts.

 

[splashpad]

Welcome @Hdwainwright!

What a great find! Great work reading the info (that will be referred to as you go along) You're ahead of the game! And nice sig!
Did you happen to notice the brand or test kit type? If it was a liquid/drop type test kit, that could be a great sign you'll have even fewer issues for your first pool season! (Assuming it was used by previous owners, lol)

Agreed w/previous posters, depending on your test results, you may only need to add chlorine stabilizer (CYA) and stock up on liquid chlorine (bleach)! The vinyl liner will make some care factors easier!
What size is the sand filter? Does the sand look to be in good condition (free/loose grains)?

 

[Hdwainwright]

H,

Did you get the message that I moved your original post about the adding s SWCG to here... Questions about adding a SWG

Thanks,

Jim R.

I don’t think that was me...

 

[Hdwainwright]

Welcome @Hdwainwright!
Did you happen to notice the brand or test kit type? If it was a liquid/drop type test kit, that could be a great sign you'll have even fewer issues for your first pool season! (Assuming it was used by previous owners, lol)

What size is the sand filter? Does the sand look to be in good condition?

I ordered the Taylor 2006C kit after reading the recommendations from pool school. The previous owners had a 5 way test kit with liquid drops as well as a copper test kit (don’t know what that’s for...). I just didn’t want to take a chance on old chemicals giving bad readings.

We had to have the motor, housing and all replaced last week and the pool guy said the sand had been replaced by the previous owners last summer. So we basically have a new system. Coincidentally, he was the previous owners’ pool guy too and also installed a new pool for the neighbors. Not sure on the size but I attached a picture of what’s left of the label. Y’all may be able to fill in the missing information.

 

[Hdwainwright]

Maybe it’s an iOS thing - I can’t see other people’s signatures even if I click their profile....is there something I should click to see it?

 

[Hdwainwright]

Side topic....

After reading through all of the information here, I’m thinking that unplugging the ionizer may be in our best interest. Previous owners raved about how easy it was to maintain a clear pool with it, but I’m concerned more with germs than algae.

My husband is on biologics for psoriasis which suppresses his immune system and we’ve already been through one nasty bout with staph that required surgical intervention. My 6 year old has chronic ear infections and is on her 5th set of tubes.

It’s a Clear Blue brand system and their website still promotes the use of chlorine in conjunction with the ionizer, but at lower levels. It looks like previous owners have been using chlorine pucks put into line with the filter/ionizer.

Am I making the right choice in disconnecting the ionizer?

Are there any befits to leaving it? Like, not using it in the summer, just using it to control algae with less chlorine use in the winter when we’re not swimming and not so concerned about germs? It’s south Alabama, we grow algae year round. Lol

Can I literally just unplug it and not change the water flow configuration?

Thanks - Heather

 

[splashpad]

Maybe it’s an iOS thing - I can’t see other people’s signatures even if I click their profile....is there something I should click to see it?

I think if you turn to landscape, you can see the signatures

 

[splashpad]

I ordered the Taylor 2006C kit after reading the recommendations from pool school. The previous owners had a 5 way test kit with liquid drops as well as a copper test kit (don’t know what that’s for...). I just didn’t want to take a chance on old chemicals giving bad readings.

We had to have the motor, housing and all replaced last week and the pool guy said the sand had been replaced by the previous owners last summer. So we basically have a new system. Coincidentally, he was the previous owners’ pool guy too and also installed a new pool for the neighbors. Not sure on the size but I attached a picture of what’s left of the label. Y’all may be able to fill in the missing information.

How is the pool filled? (well or city?) If it's well, it might account for the copper test (not sure of other reasons off the top of my head)
I was just curious about the test kit type to get an idea of the previous owner's "involvement". You did right to pitch them, especially if they weren't stored in climate control (too hot/cold flucations)

Side topic....

After reading through all of the information here, I’m thinking that unplugging the ionizer may be in our best interest. Previous owners raved about how easy it was to maintain a clear pool with it, but I’m concerned more with germs than algae.

My husband is on biologics for psoriasis which suppresses his immune system and we’ve already been through one nasty bout with staph that required surgical intervention. My 6 year old has chronic ear infections and is on her 5th set of tubes.

It sounds like you guys would benefit from adding salt to the pool (with or without the SWCG option) and I know of at least one other forum member that added borates, but that is another discussion. You will definitely want to maintain a consistent PH regardless (see poolmath link in sig &/or poolmath app)
And maintaining your FC (free chlorine) level will be top priority.

It’s a Clear Blue brand system and their website still promotes the use of chlorine in conjunction with the ionizer, but at lower levels. It looks like previous owners have been using chlorine pucks put into line with the filter/ionizer.
Am I making the right choice in disconnecting the ionizer?
Are there any befits to leaving it? Like, not using it in the summer, just using it to control algae with less chlorine use in the winter when we’re not swimming and not so concerned about germs? It’s south Alabama, we grow algae year round. Lol
Can I literally just unplug it and not change the water flow configuration?

If you can share a picture of the ionizer setup, I know there are several that can comment on the easiest way to remove/unplug it from the system. It is not necessary if you maintain the FC level in ratio to the CYA.

 

[Hdwainwright]

How is the pool filled? (well or city?) If it's well, it might account for the copper test (not sure of other reasons off the top of my head)
I was just curious about the test kit type to get an idea of the previous owner's "involvement". You did right to pitch them, especially if they weren't stored in climate control (too hot/cold flucations)

It sounds like you guys would benefit from adding salt to the pool (with or without the SWCG option) and I know of at least one other forum member that added borates, but that is another discussion. You will definitely want to maintain a consistent PH regardless (see poolmath link in sig &/or poolmath app)
And maintaining your FC (free chlorine) level will be top priority.


If you can share a picture of the ionizer setup, I know there are several that can comment on the easiest way to remove/unplug it from the system. It is not necessary if you maintain the FC level in ratio to the CYA.

The pool is filled by city water. I’m thinking the copper test may be because of the ionizer, maybe?

We had actually hoped to buy a salt water pool (particularly because of Dear Husbands psoriasis) but that didn’t happen. A salt system conversion isn’t in the budget right now, but I’d certainly be interested in learning how to add it to the pool without the SWCG.

I have downloaded the pool math app and I’m anxiously awaiting my test kit!

I attached some pictures of the ionizer system to make things more clear.

Thank you!
Heather

 

[splashpad]

The pool is filled by city water. I’m thinking the copper test may be because of the ionizer, maybe? ... I attached some pictures of the ionizer system to make things more clear.

Is the ionizer copper? I need to look it up, I'm not familiar with it. ((edit: I just saw on the faceplate photo to maintain copper levels, yup that is exactly what that was for))

We had actually hoped to buy a salt water pool (particularly because of Dear Husbands psoriasis) but that didn’t happen. A salt system conversion isn’t in the budget right now, but I’d certainly be interested in learning how to add it to the pool without the SWCG.

Using poolmath, aim for a salinity between 1800 - 2000ppm (assume current is 0ppm), it will tell you how many 40lb bags to add to achieve that. If you add it once the water is warm & swim-able, you guys can chase the salt pellets around to dissolve them (fun for kiddos!) We have salt in our pool for comfort or "feel" only and WOW what a difference! It doesn't change or add any maintenance, but it sure is nice to swim in!
Eventually you can (especially with such a large pool) source a chlorine generator and up the salt content for whichever model you choose. But no reason you can't add the salt for comfort now!

I have downloaded the pool math app and I’m anxiously awaiting my test kit!

Your 5yr will get a kick out of helping you watch for changing colors! (mine does)

 

[Hdwainwright]

Excellent! Thank you! DH will be excited about the salt!

 

[splashpad]

Excellent! Thank you! DH will be excited about the salt!

Once you add the salt, just "assume" it's there unless there is a major water change and make sure to always include it when making your poolmath calculations

I'll try to do a quick search and make sure you don't need to get rid of the copper first before adding salt. I don't want to tell you wrong! ((edit add:: here is another thread about converting Ionizer Conversion ))

Just a side thought: you might be able to get some credit or sell the ionizer (based on the cost of them) and put that towards a SWCG unit (just from quick net search) not sure how old the control unit is.

 

[splashpad]

So the copper & salt is not a problem. But making sure the copper level isn't so high it will react with the chlorine. Pool turned green from copper and a chlorine shock (this is an extreme case!)

Also bookmarked for my own info::

This link has good information on all the major SWG brands -

Compare and Review Saltwater Chlorine Generator Prices and Features