First Time Pool Owner Needing Help

BrashL

New member
Apr 5, 2023
3
Chicago, IL
Hello All,
Bought a new home in the Fall and I'm now a first time pool owner trying to figure out what I'm doing. We utilized the pool maintenance company the former owner used to close and then open it this spring. We've also had to call them for an issue I'll get into below. One of the first things I did was buy a WaterGuru since it seemed like the easiest way to monitor chemicals. It reports 2.5 FC (which started at 5 and is moving down over the past two weeks) and 7.6 PH. It also reports chronic low water flow around 4 or 5 gallons per minute. Not sure what it's looking for. I've sent a sample away for the more extensive test but don't have it back yet.

Pool is I think 25K gallons with 2 skimmers and a main drain. Has an attached hot tub as well. All the equipment is located behind the pool and I'll go through what I understand with pictures:

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Here's the whole layout for reference. On the bottom are the automatic pool cleaners which broke a couple weeks ago and I had to call the pool maintenance people to disable so they didn't flood my neighborhood. Based on what I read on this forum I think I'm going to replace with a robotic vacuum and call it a day.

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Here's the main panel. It's connected to an RS8 in the house that works fine. I was thinking of upgrading to get the App functionality but I can't seem to stop having to spend money on other parts of the pool

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Here's the filter. It's a paper cartridge but that's all I know about it. They cleaned it out when they closed the pool

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Here's the Heater. It's a Hayward. It's broken twice already, had to replace the igniter and the flame sensor. It works fine now but the panel always says standby whereas before it had an interface you could change with buttons. Not sure what's wrong but not messing with it for now since it works.

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Next up is I'm pretty sure the chlorinator. I haven't opened it yet but from what I've read you just drop in tablets?

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No clue what this thing is, if it's on, or if I want it. Looking for help.

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Ditto this thing. It doesn't seem to be connected to anything but I'm not sure what it is or what I should do with it.

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Spa Pump. Looks like heck but seems to run fine. Jets all blow well and no noise coming form this so I assume it can just be until it fails.

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And here's why I started this thread. This is what I think is the most pressing issue, the filter pump. So when we opened the pool we noticed that it screamed like a banshee when it was on, however now that it's been running a bit it sounds more like a rock tumbler. Either way not good I assume. While looking at it I also noticed a pin hole leaked from the black part of the housing that could be repaired I think but given everything else means I should probably just get rid of the whole thing. I would like recommendations on a replacement, preferably Variable or 2 speed that I could DIY to replace. I'm pretty handy with plumbing and electric, just never owned a pool.

Sorry for the info dump but if anyone can help me with any of this I'd appreciate it. Let me know if I should post any additional info. (y)
 
Wow, that's a lot of info! Where to start?!?

On water testing, get a drop based kit as recommended
Test Kits Compared

There's no other way to do "Trouble Free Pool Care" (TFPC). Your kit will pay off very fast, along with the learnings here.
Pool Care Basics also

I wouldn't replace anything that's working fine. Might just clean everything up which helps you find your way around it all.

Nature2 is usually a system that uses metal ions (copper and sometimes silver) in the water to prevent algae. That approach is trouble looking for places to happen.

In your area, trichlor pucks will very likely work fine for providing FC. If you go long periods without overflow due to rainfall and splashout, you may have to stop adding the CYA that arrives along with trichlor and switch to liquid bleach. Under no circumstances add "calcium hypochlorite" pucks to the chlorinator, if you have been using trichlor, and vice versa. The pucks are the same size and both say good things on the package. This dangerous incompatibility needs to be addressed by the pool industry, but sadly they don't give a rat's about your safety, hence why this website (TFP) is so successful.

I hope you're enjoying swimming and tubbing very soon! Welcome to TFP :)
 
Now on the pump.

When handy, scan some youtube videos on swimming pool pump repairs. It's easy-peasy to replace seals, for example. You'll also get a good look at the impeller. Then you can decide. If you're sort of one-day-patient, people here can help you through almost any challenge that arises.

If you just want to go ahead and buy, the first thing to decide is automation (yes/no, now/future and brand), even if you're not buying the automation now.

After that it's pretty much Hayward vs. Pentair (Ford/Chevy) or Jandy (+$). Many people have success with other brands as well, but get the advice here, and consider the automation aspect.

Stand-alone timers are totally fine, but if someday you want to start spa heat as you get in the car at work to come home, keep that in mind, or when getting to work if you forgot to start the pool heat and have a party that night.

I'd get the gallonage right soon. One of the easiest ways is with reliable drop-based testing and a few known chemical additions.
 
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A very great and informative first post! Welcome to TFP @BrashL !

Seconding the test kit. Unfortunately the WaterGuru hasn't generally ended up being particularly accurate. A quality test kit is going to be your primary tool going forward and it's an absolute necessity when it comes to maintaining your water chemistry. Your two options are the Taylor K2006-C (that number exactly) or one of TFTestKits.net models - the TF-100 or the TF Pro. No matter which one you go with, it is strongly recommended to make sure you get the SpeedStir or SmartStir. It will make your life significantly easier and really speed up the testing process - and make it more accurate to boot.

If this were my setup with a dying pump and other aging equipment, I would really be looking to hit the biggest problem first (the pump) while also making sure I'm allowing for compatibility with the existing automation and expandability. I don't have any experience with multipump systems (I'm single pump, even with a spa and do not have in-floor cleaning), but here are my two cents:

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Here's the main panel. It's connected to an RS8 in the house that works fine. I was thinking of upgrading to get the App functionality but I can't seem to stop having to spend money on other parts of the pool

Given the state of the rest of the pad, I'm assuming this thing is probably running some really old firmware which wouldn't support things like a salt water chlorine generator or variable speed pump. You could purchase the iAqualink 3.0 retrofit kit (iQ-30-RS), which will give you a brand new PCB (the part with the buttons on it) with the latest firmware and the antenna needed for Internet connectivity. Two birds with one stone. Jandy.. is what it is, but since you already have their automation, your cheapest option is to upgrade it.

View attachment 480592
Next up is I'm pretty sure the chlorinator. I haven't opened it yet but from what I've read you just drop in tablets?

View attachment 480593
No clue what this thing is, if it's on, or if I want it. Looking for help.

View attachment 480594
Ditto this thing. It doesn't seem to be connected to anything but I'm not sure what it is or what I should do with it.

Yeah, the first thing is an in-line tablet chlorinator. I wouldn't mess with it because these old things tend to leak when you mess with them. Moreover, tabs aren't part of the TFP method of pool care, so we have no use for these things to begin with.

The second thing is a useless Zodiac Nature2 mineral system. It's a waste of space and puts things in your water that you don't want. I'm sure the cartridge is long used up, so I wouldn't worry about it. The least they could have done is bought the version that has a built in SWCG, but alas.

The third thing is a useless Ozone generator which probably doesn't work anymore, and even if it did, wouldn't matter.

View attachment 480597
And here's why I started this thread. This is what I think is the most pressing issue, the filter pump. So when we opened the pool we noticed that it screamed like a banshee when it was on, however now that it's been running a bit it sounds more like a rock tumbler. Either way not good I assume. While looking at it I also noticed a pin hole leaked from the black part of the housing that could be repaired I think but given everything else means I should probably just get rid of the whole thing. I would like recommendations on a replacement, preferably Variable or 2 speed that I could DIY to replace. I'm pretty handy with plumbing and electric, just never owned a pool.

Here's where we get into the fun and confusing parts. I would strongly recommend moving to a VSP/VSPs. The cost savings are immense, and it will give you the ultimate flexibility if you move to a SWCG setup down the road (our preferred method of primary chlorination). The downside is, there is quite a bit of vendor lock-in here. Jandy VSPs will "just work", but they also are not in the business of selling to end consumers. Some Pentair VSPs will work, and Pentair will sell a pump to you, but you'll need to research the one you pick to ensure it's compatible with the Jandy automation. Unless it's been upgraded somewhere along the line, it's very unlikely your current Aqualink automation will properly control a VSP (and your All-Button controller can't configure it anyway) - so you'll need the aforementioned iQ-30-RS kit to make all of this work.

I'll let other folks chime in on how to manage multiple pumps; the iAqualink will support that configuration natively, but I'm a bit useless on the actual plumbing/usability aspect of your setup. For me, I'd start with the most broken parts and keep upgrading the system from there. I'd probably replumb most of the pad and eliminate the janky ball valves; the downside is proper Jandy-style valves are pricy - but they can be rebuilt over and over. We moved into our place in February of last year, so I know the feeling of prioritizing pool stuff against other stuff the house needs. Over the last 14 months though, I managed to take a very outdated, very broken Aqualink system with a single speed power hungry pump and a deleted heater and drag it kicking and screaming into a more modern setup. You can do it!
 
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