First Time Pool Owner (Houston Pool Build)
- Thread starter rhawke
- Start date
We had initially planned to have grass up to the edge of the coping on the back side of the pool but the aerator pipes are shallow and need protection. So according to our pool builders we have two options since we have enough room.
1) Use some landscaping rocks that prevent people from walking that area and heavy yard equipment going through. We could then grow some green plants inside those rocks to make it look nice. Cost is unknown since the PB does not do landscaping. We like the look of this but are worried about the maintenance aspect (weeds growing through the rocks?) and how much it would really protect the small 3/4 pipes?
2) Pour 3 ft of spray deck along the back side (additional cost for $8 x 150 sf is $1,200) tied into the bond beam. This probably provides the best protection for the pipes and makes it easy to walk around the whole pool. So it might be not as artistic but more functional and low maintenance?
Any recommendations?
pic with rocks
1) Use some landscaping rocks that prevent people from walking that area and heavy yard equipment going through. We could then grow some green plants inside those rocks to make it look nice. Cost is unknown since the PB does not do landscaping. We like the look of this but are worried about the maintenance aspect (weeds growing through the rocks?) and how much it would really protect the small 3/4 pipes?
2) Pour 3 ft of spray deck along the back side (additional cost for $8 x 150 sf is $1,200) tied into the bond beam. This probably provides the best protection for the pipes and makes it easy to walk around the whole pool. So it might be not as artistic but more functional and low maintenance?
Any recommendations?
pic with rocks
Any possible kids in the back yard?????? Kids+rocks=thrown rocks so.........
How about pavers? Can be pretty and are easy to take up if needed.
Kim
How about pavers? Can be pretty and are easy to take up if needed.
Kim
I love the look of the rocks, but I think being able to walk around the pool is important too...plus what Kim said about the rocks, lol!
We will also have a small section in the back of ours where we don't plan to put any decking (pavers in our case). So I am also trying to decide what to do with that area. One thought is either mulch or stones (similar to your pic above) but with stepping stones in it so that it is still walkable.
We will also have a small section in the back of ours where we don't plan to put any decking (pavers in our case). So I am also trying to decide what to do with that area. One thought is either mulch or stones (similar to your pic above) but with stepping stones in it so that it is still walkable.
Kids are in our near future so probably having the decking go all the way around the pool is not a bad idea. I looked into the cost of some of these rocks and I'm not even sure if it is cheaper than pouring the deck. We had looked into travertine pavers but couldn't justify the cost compared to spray dec (Especially for topping our existing patio the cost difference was huge). The pool will probably stay cleaner with deck as well because nothing would be able to grow closer than 4 feet to the water line with 1 ft coping + 3 ft of deck. I think we might go ahead and spend that money ... unless somebody else has a better idea.
Matt and Brian, I am a bit confused after reading bunch of conversations you had in these threads and wanted to make sure I understood this correctly:
Need to redo plumbing - What is Spa Make-up Valve
Automating my spillway - Seeking Advice
Can you please let me know if I got this right:
With Spa Make-up Valve:
- In this setup in Pool mode, the Spa will always receive some return water (to be controlled by the spa make up valve position).
- Pool Mode: 100 % suction from pool - 80 % return to pool / 20 % return to spa (ratio defined by manual valve setting)
- Spill Over Mode: 100 % suction from pool - 100 % return to spa
- Spa Mode: 100 % suction from spa - 100 % return to spa
Without Spa Make-up Valve:
- Pool Mode: 100 % suction from pool - 100 % return to pool
- Spillover mode: 100 % suction from pool - 100 % return to Spa
- Spa Mode: 100 % suction from spa - 100 % return to spa
- use automation to cycle between these two modes as needed (e.g. 80 % pool mode and 20 % spill over mode)
Based on this it would appear that having the make up valve gives me the option to control how strong the flow is of the spillover (without it I'm stuck with 100%)? If I put an actuator on the spa make up valve, I could even have two settings within pool mode (one with low flow spill over and one without?)
Or am I missing something and the spa make up valve is really not needed?
See below my current plumbing diagram (sorry for the very basic drawing) and please let me know if something looks off
Need to redo plumbing - What is Spa Make-up Valve
Automating my spillway - Seeking Advice
Can you please let me know if I got this right:
With Spa Make-up Valve:
- In this setup in Pool mode, the Spa will always receive some return water (to be controlled by the spa make up valve position).
- Pool Mode: 100 % suction from pool - 80 % return to pool / 20 % return to spa (ratio defined by manual valve setting)
- Spill Over Mode: 100 % suction from pool - 100 % return to spa
- Spa Mode: 100 % suction from spa - 100 % return to spa
Without Spa Make-up Valve:
- Pool Mode: 100 % suction from pool - 100 % return to pool
- Spillover mode: 100 % suction from pool - 100 % return to Spa
- Spa Mode: 100 % suction from spa - 100 % return to spa
- use automation to cycle between these two modes as needed (e.g. 80 % pool mode and 20 % spill over mode)
Based on this it would appear that having the make up valve gives me the option to control how strong the flow is of the spillover (without it I'm stuck with 100%)? If I put an actuator on the spa make up valve, I could even have two settings within pool mode (one with low flow spill over and one without?)
Or am I missing something and the spa make up valve is really not needed?
See below my current plumbing diagram (sorry for the very basic drawing) and please let me know if something looks off
Your understanding of the different modes of operation is correct.
Since you are going with automation there really is no need for a spa makeup line or a dedicated spa return.
If you want different flows from the spillway that can easily be done by setting up feature circuits with with different spillway pump speeds.
Your only limitation will be when you want to run the spa/spillway with the water features also on. You'll have to manually toggle the pool/spa return valve to get it to work with the spillway and it won't be possible to do when using the spa.
Since you are going with automation there really is no need for a spa makeup line or a dedicated spa return.
If you want different flows from the spillway that can easily be done by setting up feature circuits with with different spillway pump speeds.
Your only limitation will be when you want to run the spa/spillway with the water features also on. You'll have to manually toggle the pool/spa return valve to get it to work with the spillway and it won't be possible to do when using the spa.
Thanks a lot Brian! So to confirm, your recommendation is to remove that spa spillover valve and check valve completely, since you don't see any benefit in splitting the return water between the pool and spa correct?
The water feature are cheap aerator sprinklers that are installed in the tile just under the coping. We mainly wanted it for cooling the pool at night in the tx summer (hoping the PH won't climb like crazy) and maybe for kids to enjoy in the summer.
Would you recommend to plumb the water feature (or anything else) differently? For an extra $150 we could split the 6 pool returns into 2 separate lines with 2 way valves. Not sure if that is adding any benefit...
Yes, no need for that makeup line at all so you won't need the check valve either.
I wasn't sure what the the water feature was but if its just sprayers then that's no issue either. There would be no benefit to splitting the returns like you mentioned
sorry one more question:
my PB said the check valves (one before the pump and one before the SWG) are not needed. I got that from somewhere in this forum but didn't write down the source.
Would you agree?
my PB said the check valves (one before the pump and one before the SWG) are not needed. I got that from somewhere in this forum but didn't write down the source.
Would you agree?
He is correct that they are not needed. I would recommend putting one between the pump and filter so that there is no chance of the nasty stuff in the filter backflowing into the pump or pool during filter and pump basket cleanings. That should be the only check valve needed.
Long plumbing is going in today! The elbows and fittings they used are Durable brand according to the box and the pipes are all sch. 40.
They didn't use the longer sweep elbows I saw posted somewhere but with most of the pipes being 2.5" or 3" with only the regular returns at 2" this probably won't matter too much?
They didn't use the longer sweep elbows I saw posted somewhere but with most of the pipes being 2.5" or 3" with only the regular returns at 2" this probably won't matter too much?
BattleOfYakima
TFP Guide
Great pictures, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the great info Brian, learning a lot over here!
Thanks for the great info Brian, learning a lot over here!
Wanted to provide a quick update. We are waiting for the house builder to complete the new fence before we continue the next phase (decking and drainage). Our move in date for the house is Jun 30 and therefore we won't schedule the plaster until the last week of June. I will post here again as soon as things start moving again.
Thanks for the update. I would book plaster after you’re in just to be sure you will be there to monitor the fill and then brush. Might be a bit crazy moving and looking after new plaster all at once.
I may have missed it but how did you address Houston's storm water discharge requirements with respect to impervious surfaces?